Our car has always been a little slow to build oil pressure after a cold start. It would have about 5 psi. for 30 seconds then jump up to 35-40 and stay around 30 even hot. I fired it up for the Christmas parade after sitting a few weeks and it sat on 10 and didn't move. I cracked the line coming out of the pump and it had at least some pressure on it so I let it idle and after what seemed like forever it jumped up to 30 so we did the parade. Today I decided to look into it further and started at the relief valve. I took it out and cleaned it and noticed that the  plunger had about 1/16" slack before it touched the spring. I took it apart and the spring seems to have a couple of coils that have lost their tension. I adjusted it until the plunger had a little pressure on the spring. I put it together and it almost instantly had 40 psi and 30 when hot. I guess I need a new spring but have no idea where to find one.

Anyone know where I can find this shut off valve? I have tightened the packing nut and it still drips. It used to just drip when the valve was shut but now it seeps all the time.

A while back I needed a brake light switch and bought a Allstar brand switch from Amazon that was a exact replacement. Problem was if you weren't stopping fast and using a lot of pressure it didn't work. Then a few months later it quit. I bought another one and it was the same. Then I found this one. It is really sensitive and just slowing down it turns on the lights. How long it will last remains to be seen but so far its great. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CN1HTMTM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

It was almost 100 degrees and the old girl did good!

Val (Rusty Fender) sent me a carb part off his spare carb that seems to always be broken to see if I can get it duplicated. I have never met him he lives halfway across the country. He has nothing but my word that he will get his part back. Without it his carb is pretty much worthless.  The people in this community are awesome.

Rant over go back to working on those old Plymouths and show us what you have done.

The day before our big car show the car died on my wife but she got it running and nursed it home. The brass bowl Carter was flooding big time.

 Back story is the gas tank had developed a small leak and had I pulled it off and discovered the baffle was completely broke loose and just bouncing around in the tank. I cut a hole in the top big enough to get the mig gun in then cleaned the inside of the tank and welded the baffle in. Then I had my son weld the piece back in the top (he welds for a living) then sealed the tank with KBS sealer using their kit and following the instructions to a T. The sealer dries hard as a rock and the fuel coming out is now completely clean.

Thinking I had got something in the fuel line when I pumped the tank out that stuck the needle valve I took the bowl and float off. Nothing not even a speck. Put it back together and no improvement. Took it back apart and lowered the float level, no improvement. I took it off and hooked a long fuel line from the pump to it and set it over a bucket with the bowl off. It works as it should, spraying gas out of the needle and seat when I let the float drop and when I gently close it it shuts off the fuel. I checked the fuel pressure and it has less than 1 lb.

I finally gave up and put on a Carter BB-1 that came with the spare motor I bought. It looked pretty bad and the accelerator pump linkage was broke making it inoperable. The hole for the linkage was smaller so I made a very crude one from a piece of bent 3/16 brake line just to get it to the show. It fired right up without even using the choke and runs good. We made the show but now I want to figure out what to do to fix the brass bowl carb. Any ideas? I have worked on everything from  Quadrajets  to a tea cup Holley and have never found a carburetor I couldn't make work.... until now!

Oh I also tried taking the gas cap off incase the now 100% sealed tank was building up enough pressure from the day warming up to overcome the needle & seat that was designed for gravity feed from vacuum tank fuel pump but it made no difference.

Any ideas?

   

The 56 BelAir is ours too  https://www.texomashomepage.com/events/piston-heads-auto-club-in-bowie-prepares-for-one-of-north-texas-biggest-car-chows-jim-bowie-car-show/

https://www.ebay.com/itm/126208436778?mkevt=1&mkpid=2&emsid=e90001.m43.l1123&plmtId=700008&mesgId=3024&mkcid=8&ch=osgood&bu=43188412823&trkId=cacc8d1a-8bf9-44aa-adba-3245bd74819b&cnvId=700003&recoId=126208436778&recoPos=1

Cheap? Too much? I don't know I just saw it and thought I would share. If it was for a 29 it would be a good deal.

The old girl ran perfect. All the work I did last summer was worth it to see her enjoy her car so much. The parade was Saturday night. Sunday we took our neighbor his wife and two young kids riding around then Sunday night we drove it to church and gave our Connections Pastor a ride. He is struggling with stage 4 cancer and was told 5 years ago he had maybe 5 years to live. 

It a wonder any of our cars survived this and the steel drives of WWII
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yg7sQbp0ZuY

I'm having to make one of the rods for the hand throttle and trying to get the geometry right. How far does the lever open the throttle? I am assuming that the throttle is closed when the lever is to the left of center and opens as you move it to the right. I have the motor back together and am tying up the loose ends while waiting for parts  to finish it up and get it running.

It took me all afternoon but I think it came out ok. I used some sheet metal and a lot of mig wire but I think it looks pretty good for a lever that won't do anything. I don't have a clum switch to hook it to but its a start. I filled the little voids and will sand and paint it and the other one.

I really don't think they are factory but I can't even guess what they are for. BTW I still need a rod or could even get by with a couple of good bolts.

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Well the old girl developed a knock. Upon dropping the pan I found part of a piston skirt in the sump. What I also found was on the same cylinder the safety wire holding the rod nuts had broken and the rod nuts were loose. One was loose enough I took it off with my fingers and the other had a little piece of wire still in it. When I took that out the nut wasn't much more than finger tight. My theory is that whoever put it together didn't torque that rod and it eventually sheered the wire letting one nut back off even more. The knock was the piston hitting the head. The rod runs very close to the piston skirts so it wacked the skirt breaking it.

The block is .060 and I have found a piston from Egge. What I need is a connecting rod that is babbitted .040. The one I have has one bolt that seems bent a little and some wear on the bearing from being ran loose. I might get away with using it but I am not very confident. I have another block that has freeze cracks that is also .060 over but it has inserted bearings and the crank is standard.

I am going to call a couple of places that rebabbitt rods tomorrow and see if they have anything or can repair the one I have.

Our daughters second daughter got married Saturday and we were ask to deliver the bride and take the couple from the reception. It was in field close to where she was raised and has dreamed of getting married there all her life. Needless to say it rained all week and even into Friday evening which also had temps in the 50's. That is totally unreal in Texas in April!

Saturday it warmed up and the wind howled all day drying out the field nicely. The wedding was @7Pm and the wind died allowing everything to be set up. My oldest son dressed in 20's attire delivered the bride to a unexpecting crowd. A really cool moment was about halfway through the ceremony a owl that was very nearby hooted his "Who Who"  It was truly a magical moment! That is what we bought the car for! After the reception which was in the same location he took them away (about a half a mile). I don't have many pictures but here is one I took of the escape and one of their chauffer and his wife.You cannot view this attachment.You cannot view this attachment. 

I have no idea

I'm going to have to pull the rear hubs off our 29 it has a leaky wheel cylinder. Looing on the internet there are lots of the three legged pullers available for around $50 to $250. The Cal Van for around $100 and the Truepower 2029 for $75 both have good reviews. Has anyone used one of these?

The motor I mentioned in the previous post has this #You cannot view this attachment.
It has a 4 1/4" stroke which is correct for a 29. The seller said his car was a 29. I am thinking its a 29 motor made in late 28. I pulled the head and it has no scoring and very little ring groove. I pulled the side cover and its pretty sludged up in there. The bore isn't standard according to a pair of calipers. I'll mic it later to see what it is. I think it was a inframe rebuild. Back then they bored motors with a portable boring bar and never pulled them out of the car.

What do Y'all think?

My wife & I drove 1200 miles in 21 hours to pick up this haul of 29 goodness from Metarie Louisiana (suburb of New Orleans). The seller Popeye is a super nice guy. He is putting a 331 Hemi in his 29.

I found a container with these parts in it in the deceased owners shop.  I wouldn't have even thought they went to our car until I saw the color of the painted parts. I think maybe the painted parts were to adjust the windshields. I think one of the electrical components is the cut out for the generator and the little fitting used to be the inlet for the carb. Am I right and what is the rest of it. The painted parts open up another mystery. They match the car colors but not the paint job. They are chalky and faded the car isn't. Was it the same color it is now before it was painted? I don't think those are factory colors. According to his wife he didn't do much to the car so those parts must have came with it.
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If everything works out as planned I will be bring home a complete 29 drivetrain from a running car before the week is over. Details to follow.