I agree with Rusty! They look good & period correct and may even be beneficial if they keep the stem centered in the wheel better. Unlike the Model A it's  hard to track down what is 100% correct on these cars. if you got em & like em run em!

I have our car (29U) torn down and the bell housing, flywheel & seal holder bracket thing removed. I have a rope seal that came from Best Gaskets. The seal seems a lot thicker in all dimensions than the old seal and although I haven't tried yet it seems like it will be impossible to get it crammed in placece in that cheesy bracket in the limited space between the flange on the crank & the back of the engine. I looked at the old threads and some mention dropping the pan. I don't see how that would help anything as the seal holder bolts to the back of the rear cap and the back of the block. Someone also mentioned using a neoprene split seal. I have tried to find a seal that would fit with no luck. Anyone have a part # for said seal?

I have several computer nerd millennial people in our family that could do it but they are not necessary antique car lovers. Since this is sort of a private forum how much maintenance does it take? I know the FB forums fight constantly to keep spammers out but I don't know how much of a issue it is here. We have some time to figure it out. I would volunteer some time and money to do my part. To be honest my main passion is tri-five Chevys but our Plymouth is important to me too and this is a great resource.

Is there any way we can save this forum? It's the best resource for these cars that I have found and contains lots of info and friendships that will be lost. What are our options? A fee? Advertizing? Someone new to take it over? I don't know but I do know that without it our car wouldn't be near as good as it is today and I bet we aren't the only one.

Those gland rings can be a problem. If the new gasket is thinner than the designed one the rings can keep it from being compressed and cause leaks. They don't seal anything they just help line up the manifold & the block. When you have it apart again put it together with no gasket and see how much gap between them and your problem night be easier to spot.

If a surface is rough I have used JB Weld to fill it in. I put waxed paper on a flat plate or just waxed the plate and screwed it down with the epoxy between the plate and the rough surface. Let it cure and when it's hard remove the plate smooth up the edges with a file. Then it will hold a gasket a lot better. I had to do both sides of my thermostat housing and water neck that way. If your gas gauge doesn't seal with what you have this might be a idea. Our car has no gauge just a plate blocking the hole. I have thought about trying to fit a boat gas tank gauge in there but think about it is as far as I have got. 

The spring arrived today. It looks a lot better than the one I have in the valve now. I'll change it out before we drive the car again!

Thank you very much Tom!!

Quote from: Articifer Tom on December 25, 2024, 11:25:24 AMGive me your address . Do not want anything for it .

Walter Jones 1102 Roach St. Bowie Texas 76230
Thanks!

Quote from: Articifer Tom on December 22, 2024, 11:41:47 AMYes all intact , spring 1 -15/16 long .

Let me know what you want for it with shipping & I'll get a check in the mail or I can do PayPal.

Quote from: Articifer Tom on December 18, 2024, 11:24:28 AMHello T. Glad to hear . I have a spare parts 196ci 4 cyl PA , 1931 engine . Your welcome to the relief parts from . I'll have to get to deep in shed make sure the parts where not scavenged already . Bought last year as damaged for parts .

Thanks! When you get a chance to look let me know. A PM would get my attention in case I have been lazy about checking this page.

Our car has always been a little slow to build oil pressure after a cold start. It would have about 5 psi. for 30 seconds then jump up to 35-40 and stay around 30 even hot. I fired it up for the Christmas parade after sitting a few weeks and it sat on 10 and didn't move. I cracked the line coming out of the pump and it had at least some pressure on it so I let it idle and after what seemed like forever it jumped up to 30 so we did the parade. Today I decided to look into it further and started at the relief valve. I took it out and cleaned it and noticed that the  plunger had about 1/16" slack before it touched the spring. I took it apart and the spring seems to have a couple of coils that have lost their tension. I adjusted it until the plunger had a little pressure on the spring. I put it together and it almost instantly had 40 psi and 30 when hot. I guess I need a new spring but have no idea where to find one.

I have been looking for a couple of them for 2 years. I have the spring & hook parts but one of my brackets has been replaced by one that doesn't let the hood close right and another is in pretty bad shape. I may attempt to make some one of these days. If you find a source let me know.

I think I may have fixed it. I couldn't find a way to take it apart without destroying it so I backed the nut off and wrapped some button hole thread my wife had around the shaft a few times. Put it back together and so far no leaks. I thought about putting a ball valve between the tank and the filter and plugging the old valve but that would have the filter & throttle linkage fighting for real estate. Thanks Tom for giving me that idea.

Anyone know where I can find this shut off valve? I have tightened the packing nut and it still drips. It used to just drip when the valve was shut but now it seeps all the time.