That makes sense.  This may be a bigger project than I want to start
rusty

I have a orginial carb but that plan on setting on the self and use a Model A carb as the driver carb.  Which one is "better" for the plymouth   Tillotson or Zenith?  Does it matter?  Which fits better?  rusty

I found a site that makes brackets for Model A luggage racks and they do(did) make a long bracket that would put the trunk out past the spare tire.  I think it would work with some modification to the brackets for our cars but I think you are right, it would not look "right" .  Which is better, trunk or spare tire?  rusty

What I was thinking is to buy a  repro model A luggage rack and make brakets to mount it.  I have not worked out the spare tire issue.  On ebay, there is a few  luggage racks (mainly model T and A's) that are a expanded metal that may fit a lot of other cars.  They are cheap and would just need a good sandblasting and painting.  I may be getting ahead of myself as the block has not returned from the shop as it is getting overbored 40.
rusty

Were luggage racks a option or aftermarket?  Would a Model A ford rack fit without major surgury?  I found a trunk at a auction and would like to use it if possible.  Could someone post photos  on the rack and how it is mounted?  Is the spare tire mounted on the outside of the trunk?
rusty

The orginial did not have a seal.  There is a sprial groove that was cast into the inside of the shaft of the bearing retainer.  Any oil that did not drain back into the transmission case would be "stopped" by this groove.  That was the theory, I do not know how well it really worked.  In my case, rubber oil seal was installed.  There is no part number on it.  This seal would only work on this made piece anyway.  One the orginial one, they is no place to install a seal.
rusty

view of the seal

the first photos is the broken front retainer seal and the second is a newly made replacement out of aluminum.  I had a seal installed in the inside of the new piece so trans fuild would not leak down the shaft to the clutch

rusty

What do people do the copper lines and brass fittings?  Where they orginially uncoated and left to tarnish?  Where they coated in clear lacquar (spelling??)?  In the photo, they look nice and shiny but after driving and use, they would get dusty and tarnished. 

rusty

What is the correct color for the brake fuild reservoir can   and the fuel pump cannister?  Mine are both more rust than paint.

I removed the bell housing to clean and paint and found out that it mount to the frame rails by "motor mounts".  I guess it would be more correct to say rear motor mounts.  The rubber is hard and problaby should be replaced but since this car is eating money, I probably will not.  THe front one is going to be revulcatized soon.  Has anyone replaced these rear ones or just leave well enough alone?

rusty

If it is brazed, does it have to be balanced?
rusty

I do not have a new clyinder  number just the kit
WK-7
The clyinder is 1 1/4 size on both sides but this kit only does one side as it also does 1 1/8 on the other suzew (step bore)  I have to buy 1 1/4 cup along with this kit.  I had my cylinders relined with stainless. rusty

The machine shop guys thought it could as a last resort.  The porblem being if it broke will spinning "high RPM" that a piece could go flying.  The machine shop would do this but gave me a few names which I tried but no luck.  rusty

I forgot one part, the praking brake.  Mine had been used for a long while as the primary braking system and was worn clean off.  I had it relined by the same people who did my brake shoes  50 dollars.  I cleaned all the drum and parts of the handle , bead blasted and powder coated them,


The next part is not needed but very handy.  The ammco 1750 brake gauge.  I got a complete set off ebay for 400 bucks, some are list at 1000 for buy it now.  Do get a complete kit with intructions.  You can set the brakes without this but it does really work to make a tight brake job.  I have other cars that I can use it on so it is now just a plymouth tool.  I tried without it and I got it good enough but not great.

I just now need to remove the master clyinder storage can and bead blast and clear coat that and then the brakes are done.

rusty