brake hoses (newly made) are from 
www.brakehoses.biz  for 75 dollars.  All three brakes hoses are the same


for snail mail
nick christman
302 E 19th street ste. D
holland MI 49423

rusty

Is there  a trick to removal?  I have the trans out along with the throw out bearin  but can not seem to get the clutch out.  I removed all the bolts but the it seems that the center of the clutch plate itself (spline center) is getting caught on the flywheel and I do not seem to have enough room to drop them.  I had to remove one of the fingers of the pressure plate to drop it down to get around the fulrum arm.  I can see how that arm could be removed with the clutch still in place.  It is just brute force?? 
rusty

It appears to be oil soaked also.

Since the U does not have a water pump, did these car ever come with a heater?  I got mine out of North dakota which is not the warmest place on earth.

rusty

How do you remove the wood steering wheel?  Mine needs to be fixed.  The owners manual is not helpful

rusty

I pulled the transmission with a lot work than I thought.  The case was coated in a thick oil/dirt coating.  I had to hammer off this to get down to where the trans meets the bell houseing and then use a hammer and screwdriver to pry them apart.  The front bearing retainer is broken.  It appears the throw out bearing seezied on this.  Where does the spring attach on the front of the transmission that goes to the throw out bearing?  Is the grease fitting to be up on down?  Does any one have a lead on a new bearing?  Since the everything was not alined, one of the clutch fork arms was worn severely, this will need to be reweld up and machined back to normal. 

rusty

Has any one removed the bell housing to paint?  How hard is it to remove once the engine/transmission is removed?

rusty

It looks like the throw out bearing is pressed on a steel sleeve.  Am I correct that this assembly rides on the tranmission shaft which enters the clutch assembly.  It looks different that mine but I have not removed mine from the car yet.  Thanks for the photo
rusty

It looks like there are two wear points on the back.  Is this were the furcum arm rides??

I just went to take a look at mine again, it looks like the sleeve that the throw out bearing is pressed on is the same but does this assemble ride on the splines or on a "tube" that may be part of the tranmission nose ?  rusty

Did you pull the engine and bell houseing as one unit?  The bell housing is the rear cross member and that looks very tight to get out with out removing the steering box.

I just went to chet's web site and he has a picture of his tranmission out.  It appears that the nose cone of the transmission is what is broken.  One of the finger of the pressure plate that the throw out bearing rides on is worn flat.  I would guess that is the nose cone is broken, the throw out bearing does not ride square on these fingers.  I will need on of those welded up and then grind down to orginal shape.  The transmission nose cone is going to take, I bet, some work.

When the engine needs to come out, do most poeple pull the tranmission with the engine as one unit or pull the engine seperately?  Do the fenders need to come off?  rusty

As many of you know, I have completely redid the brakes.  I wanted a good stopping car before I got to the driving part.  Since I was under the car , more than in it, I thought it was a good time to grease all fittings.  I drained everything and then took off the clutch inspection plate.  This was a sad moment as a large amount of metal was in the pan.  I looked up and it looks like the throwout bearing sleeve (??pot metal??) is missing a few large pieces.  Does anyone have their clutch apart currently and able to take a photo of the sleeve, with or without the throwout bearing.  I would apreciate it.  I had debated on pulling the engine this winter and now it looks like that decision has been taken care of.

rusty

How much torque should use for the nut??  I used 60 pounds,  ??good guess?
rusty

Why no grease? 

I have the brakes all done but for some reason I can not get the wheel mounted on the tapered shaft for the rear wheels.  I can not seem to get the hub to line up perfect  with the key way.  Is there a trick or just luck?  Do you mount the wheel with no key way and then drive the key way home?  Is it easier to mount the key way in the hub and then install the wheel?  Or am I just making it harder than it needs to be??
rusty

All my shoes were heavy coated with brake fuild and some with wheel bearing grease.  I rebuild everything.  This is what it cost.

Master clyinder.   This was not resleeved.  The bore was not that bad, some rust but rebuildable.  
                        Rabestos number MK-1     is the kit number  27 bucks.

Wheel clyinder      All 4 were heavy rust and pitted.  Roberts has them for about 45-50 bucks but I had
                        mine all resleeved in stainless for 60 each.  Since I needed the shoes to be relined, this
                        was a lot easier and they are now done forever.  4x60= 240

Wheel clyinder kits.   Now they need to be rebuilt.   rabestos number Wk-7  is a step bore rebuild kit for
                            later mopar.  This kit has 1 1/4 and  1 1/8 cups.   It does have a new spring and
                            outter rubber cups.  You can buy a 1 1/4 rubber cup seperately.  cost 4 each

Powder coating.        I hate a rusty master clyinder so I powder coated mine shiny black.  The brake place
                            had stated that if you are going to powder coat and sleeve that the part should be
                            coated firsted then sleeve as the high heat could loosen the sleeve.  I have a home
                            eastman powder coating system so no extra coat here.

Brake drums.            All 4 were removed from the wood spoke hubs to be cleaned.  It looked a lot easier
                            to clean them off the hubs.  Once degreased, I bead blasted them and then got a
                            good look at what I have.  All were nice smooth surface and only one (rear) was
                            very rough brake surface.  I showed them to my local machine shop and the final
                            decistion was to just use them and not cut them.  The drums then got powder
                            coated black.

Grease seals.            Front ones were leaking and rear ones were missing part of the leather seal
                             front  SKF 18242  5 bucks each
                             rear   38 dollars each from then-n-now auto  in Weymouth, Mass 1-781-335-8860

Wheel bearings          These looked like no rust or pits so they were reused.

Brake hoses.             My local parts place states they have ordered the replacement hoses but were
                             shipped to the wrong store.  Should be here "soon".  I will post there part number
                             here if they turn out to be correct.

Copper washer.         If you type in copper washer on ebay, there is about 50 people selling a box of 110
                             of new copper washers.  I got one and replaced all the copper washers to be safe.

King pins                  Shot and needed new ones,  110 dollars and 50 for the machine shop to install.

Hard lines.                These seem ok to me and I just used air to blow them out and resue them.  I did\
                             remove the master cylinder to resivour and bead blast it to get a nice copper color
                             back and sprayed on a clear coat to keep the copper color.

Rear hub.                 You need a hub puller to remove the rear wheel.  Coast 110 dollars and was used
                             for 30 seconds per side.  What is needed is a FORD model TT hub puller.  The model
                             T puller is to small but the model T truck was called the Model TT.  Any model T
                             parts place on the internet will have one.  

Time                        About 5 weeks to get all the parts done.  It took a week or so to sent off the
                             brake shoes to be relined etc.    Once all the parts were back, it was easy to
                             reinstall.  I was nice to have all nice clean threads and not any oily parts.



                             I used the following
                             Brake and equipment warehouse
                             455 Harrison ST. N.E.
                             Minneapolis  MN  55413
                             612 378 3141
                             800 233 4053

shoes relined             I had all the shoes relined.  It cost 10 dollars per shoe 8x10=80 and then add shipping. 
                              They had new lining glued on. 


Hope this helps

rusty

I removed the drums.  No problems.  Just unbolt from the hub.  I took the drums to a machine shop and had them cleaned.  The rear drums were coated with grease as the rear axle seal was leaking.  Once cleaned, then I bead blasted them.  I had them measured and were mostly round.  I decided not to cut them but just use them.  I have new shoe ordered, I had to send my shoes to get relined.  I can always remove them in the future to cut if I get a pulse brake pedal or if they pull to one side and can not get that adjusted out. rusty

That is a true complete rebuild.  What did you do with the timing gears?  Reuse the orginial??  What about the oil pump?  thanks rusty