I finally got around to replace my rad hoses as I got tried of all three of them slowly leaking.  I had used a red hose as I liked the look.  I do not know if that was original or not.  I got 24 inches of 2 inch modern black hose and cut the pieces to fit.  Does not leak not.  Does any one run straight water?  I thought I had read some where that straight water was a better heat conductor that the classic radiator fluid.  Modern rad fluid has a higher boiling temp but does it conduct heat better???  I do not drive the car in the winter so freezing is not a concern.  What does most people do?
Rusty

The main problem is going to find a machine shop that is willing to do these small type jobs.  Most want production runs.  We put back the shifter like we found it.  I plan on fixing my shifter this winter.  Right now with the weather nice, I am driving the car and just will be careful with the wide shifts into third.

Hope this helps
rusty and SDglen 

Once the side rods are in place, then push in the center rod.  leave out about 1/2 inch, then rotate this about 90 degrees.  This will allow the two small ball bearing to drop in the hole in the center shifter rod.  Then turn 90 degrees and push into place.  Just need to hammer back in the key way.
In this photo, look close,  each shifter fork has a half moon that faces the center shifter rod.  Once this rod is turned 90 degrees, the bearing drop right in

You will need to preen or weld the pin back in place.  Then just reassemble in reverse order.  A tip,  the large ball bear that goes in the shifter fork , there is a small spring in the fork, put the ball bearing in place, put the fork in a vise, use a screw driver to hold the ball down onto the spring and then use the center shifter rod pushed in from the other side of the fork to hold the ball bearing down on the spring.  This then holds the ball hearing down, then then insert this on the side shifter rods, as you slowly drive the outer shifter rods "home", they push out this center rod.  This way the ball bearing is in place .

You may need to bore the hole in the case out to make it truely round again.  This is a top down shot, it was round orginially.  You can see how the sides are worn.

another view

The pin is also very worn.  It should be round and fit into the slot tight.  It was also loose in the cast iron housing.  A new pin will need to be made.  It was preened (?spelling) at the factory to hold it in place

These is where the problem is .  On the ball of the shift lever, there is a key way.  On the photo you can see how much it is worn..  It should be a straight milled slot.  This is were the slop is.  To fix, it will need to be welded, then machined/milled.  There is also some wear a were the shifter engages into the top of the shifter forks but that is small potatos. 

The shifter lever is held in the cast iron housings by a large spring .  This spring is held up by three "bosses" that are cast into the housing.  Use a long screw driver to pop each one loose.

drive the center rod out the front by hitting the back with a punch.  THere are two small ball bearing that are in a hole in the center rod.  THese will fall out, DO not lose.  THen drive the outer rods out the back with a long punch.  There is a larger but only one ball that holds the shifter fork to the shifter rod.  One ball bearing per shifter fork.

THis is the under side of the mech.  First lift up the locking key way, this is located on the part of the mech that is toward the engine (I will call front)

I was over at SDglenn's house and we took apart the shifter mech that he had out of this 29 and found how why it is so loose.  Mine also has a lot of play in the shifter.  When shifting into third, I have to have the shifter far to the passenger side and then I hit my wife's knee when I shift into third.  We think we found out why and how to fix.  

There is a pin on the top of the shift mech , passenger side.  This pin should be tight.  When you move the shifter, you can see/feel this pn move, if so , you have problems.  Mine move some.

Are you around this Sunday afternoon sdglen

Rusty

closer look

I do not know if these are correct or not but they look like they would be.  I got the lacquare cover solid core wires from a place called vintage wiring of maine.  I got the brass cap that slides over the top of the plug and then the nob that screws on.   I just like the look of such.
rusty