My car has a broken speedo at 74,000 so my trans has a few miles .  What I use is 85W-90 cheap napa brand gear oil mixed with Lucus oil stabilizer in a 2/3 oil to 1/3 Lucus.  It is thick and helps oil cling to metal.  At the parts counter, have you seen the clear plastic box with three gears with Lucus oil, it shows the Lucus oil climb up the gears.  It does quick down noise gears in old loose trans.  I run this in everthing old, including rear ends. 

What I also do for very thick crap that comes out old trans, I mix cheap gear oil with automatic transmission oil (50/50) and run it for 10 minutes and then drain.  I have had to do this twice once on a 1941 WW2 army truck to get the transmission mostly cleaned out.

Rusty

Nothing is better for summer cruising than a open car.  These cars are fun, just have a few quirks.  Is that a down draft carb?  What thickness oil are you running? 
Is there a vacuum leak on the oil pump to the fuel canister causing a loss of suction and hence lower oil pressure?  just a thought.  May need a rebuild on the oil pump?
Did you plastic gauge the bearing when cleaning out the oil pan?  Worn bearing?

COOl car
rusty

I would like to see those scans.  Could you use a water based heater on a car with thermo siphon cooling system?  Would that work?
Rusty

Just wondering which color did most cars come with? Rusty

What was the most common color in 1929?
rusty

On my other stuff, most of my wheel cylinders and master are all sleeved in stainless or brass. I have not rebuilt any brake system (a second time) since doing such.  It does geta little old having to rebleed brakes every few years.  My main problem is my helper is not so much help.
rusty

I just use plain old DOT 3 brake fluid .   Cheap and very common and easy to bleed.  I change the fluid in my old cars every few years.  They get water in the line from moisture in the air and degrades the fluid and can cause rust in the system.  The brake line on these Plymouth were originally copper so rust is not a problem.
Dot 5 is silicone and is not comparable with dot 3.  The advantage of dot 5 is that it does not absorb water.  A pain to bleed since it is very easy to get air bubbles in the system and then very hard to get them out.
Stick with dot 3 fluid.  I would say most old car people have dot 3 in their babies.
My two cents.
White post restorations recommend dot3 over dot 5 and they do a lot of brake rebuilding and restoration .  That is what they told me when I had my hydrovac rebuilt by them (. 1941 Chevy fire truck )
Rusty

Also, dot 3 eats paint, do not spill any on painted surface.  This is why most old master cylinders are so rusty.
I had my 29 master cylinder and wheel cylinder all bored out and sleeved in stainless.  They were too heavily pitted to just do a simple hone and rebuild.

Thanks.  These cars get changed so much over 80 years, hard to know what is original at times.  I always thought the brakes were pretty good on my Plymouth. I wonder how well rear only mechanical drums work?  The original drivers of these cars did not the traffic or texting while driving issues to deal with.
Rusty

I did add a third brake light, does make the back end more "bright" while stopping.

Would any one know the first year dodge offered juice brakes?  Did they have them before Plymouths were made?
Rusty

My caps have two small slots (1/4 inch x 1/4 inch) about 180 degrees apart.  I used a punch and a hammer and slowly tap on each one to slowly "un screw" the caps.   Very very careful as they are thin metal
Rusty

This is what mine did.  The block was rebuilt so at that time I had the freeze plugs out and flushed the block.  Mine would go about 3 miles like clock work and over heat.  It could idle for 15 minutes and not over heat but exactly 3 miles , boom.  I had it checked by a local radiator shop ,twice, both times they checked it and said it was ok.  I got a new core and that fixed all problems.  I think that on a thermo sipon system, it really needs to be clean and not blocked as there is no pressure in the system ( no water pump ).  I also had tried two gallons of vinager in the rad and ran the engine for 10 to 15 minutes.   Did not help.
Rusty.

I was going to fix my charging problem but noticed a large amount of brake fuild around where my front passenger tire sat on the floor.  It turns out that I suddenly delvoped a back wheel cylinder.  I pulled the wheel  and brake all apart and found very soaked brake shoes and a badly leaking wheel cylinder.

I had all 4 wheel cylinders bored and sleeved in stainless steel one year ago.  Not sure why it went bad.  I am going to rehone and put new cups in  1 1/4 inch.  The question I have is there any way to save brakes shoes that are soaked in brake fluid?  Or do they just need to be relined? 

I was told once that you could put baking soda in the drum as a stop gap to get you home.

rusty

I took my 29 which normally charges about 10 for a while then backs down.  Tonight, it charged at 15 to almost 20 the entire time it was running.  At idle , she charged at 10.  The battery is new and it took almost no time at all cranking so it is not like I killed the battery getting it started.  I rebuilt the generator myself .  I bought a generator lathe off ebay and cut down the shafts and put in new brushes about 100 miles ago.  I looked at the manuel and it states you can turn down the charging but not sure why it started to charge more on the gauge.
any ideas where I should start checking??
rusty

That is a very nice unchanged orginial cra.  It would be nice to be able to store those photos somewhere so they can be used as a referance.    I could not
tell if the carb was orginial.

rusty

I would like to take a look inside of a transmission with out me pulling mine out.  Are you around this sunday afternoon?
rusty