Something I just noticed in the photos on Chet's website, the oil pickup filter is totally different from mine.  Mine is a simple stainless steel open-top, perforated cylinder attached to the drain plug which seems to be magnatized.

    I also noted that my brake master cylinder is different, and matched the drawings in my owners manual.  They must have changed the design in '29.  The inlet port on top is not set in at an angle, it enters at a perfect 90 degrees as do the other two fittings, the outlet port and the pressure switch.

Chris

Chet,
    The gas pedal linkage is all there and working, ok, the pedal itself has been unscrewed, I made a crude but functional pedal from a nut and stainless steel fender washer as a temporary fix.  The linkage that has been added is for the choke.  Thanks for the link on the gaskets, I'll order a set ASAP.  The carb it would seem is the biggest hang-up at the moment.

John, thanks for the carb details, hope to find one soon, as long as it works and isn't leaking!  ... pouring fuel on the ground that is.
$20 in gas to go a mile across town for inspection is pretty bad.

I am going to try plugging off the port that is leaking, but I have a feeling that it will then just pour out somewhere else.

    Also any suggestions on a fix for a dripping needle valve on the vacuum tank?  Seems to be coming out the stem.

I have scratch the idea of driving the car to the Moncton AtNats for this year, but will still attend.

She's a noisey old girl that likes to smoke, but I love my Plymouth!

Chris

    I have been out of touch lately, not because I wanted to be, but I have been spending every waking moment of spare time in the garage! 

    I am happy to anounce that my 28 Q is now running, with a couple gas leaks and unadjusted carb with a damaged float.

    As I now know the carb on my car is not original, and someone drilled a hole in the floorboard for the choke rod, and mounted a ugly piece of aluminum on the dash for it.  I am hoping to find an original carb.  I have  had trouble getting the exsisting carb to seal, and after trying three times to get it to seal with different gasket material I gave up and used copper color prematex hi-temp silicone that I used on the oil pan and side panel.  The other problem is the float was dented by the bowl freezing at some point and along with warping the top half of the carb and the mating surface with the intake manifold it now doesn't allow the float to come up high enough to close off the incoming fuel and it drips out the air cleaner canister.  I am thinking maybe bending the float, adding a shim to the top side, or replacing the thing all together.  Is there a new aftermarket replacement carb out there?  Or does anyone have a complete carb they would be willing to sell me?  I called the fellow in nearby GrandBay but I think he is on vacation as I only get his answering machine, I'm hoping he might <MIGHT> have a original carb.  Suggestions on mending the float or making a better seal on the exsisting carb for now?  I am also told that the copper permatex hi-temp silicone will be eaten by the gas, is this true?  HELP?!


    The interior is essientally done except for making something for a gas pedal and cleaning up the mirror. All the fenders are back on and the wheels are done and installed.  The breaks have been bled and seem to be working well, parking brake fixed and rear end of the drive shaft tightened up.  The thing I didn't think I could fix which I managed to get done in one eveing was rebuilding the pass side rear spring shackle that was worn right through, a bit of welding, die grinder and a couple pieces of metal cut off a rowing machine did the trick!  More on this later.  The front linkage for the steering box has been cleaned and repaired, everything on the car has been greased and the wheels will hopefully turn today once a few more bolts are tightened in the fender and running board on the pass side.

    If all goes well I am hoping to get the car running well enough to take it to Moncton Atlantic Nationals next weekend.  I am taking a week's vacation starting on Sunday to get her tuned up and work out any bugs, squeeks and rattles.

    Photos later this week.

Cheers,
    Chris Osborne

Yes It is a split rim tool, and it works great!  I used it the other night to replace the tube in the only tire that was flat.

Chris

   Question: Did the drivers door have a plain handle, that is without the little leaf or fan on the larger end?

  The handles in the rest of the car bear this little extra engraving, the drivers side including the front windshield crank handle have nothing but a little rib all the way around them.

   I also made up a couple kick panels of the same material as the door panels.

   I got a wheel from the fellow nearby and a ride in his '28, which he told me used to be blue as well.  His kick panels are black leatherette/vinyl, and his handles are in very rough shape, mose have no plating on them and a couple a re broken off.  He wanted me to drive, but I declined, not wanting to be responsible if anything went wrong!  Stopped at a set a train tracks at the time, he started to get out and then I said no thanks, and a few seconds later a large freight headed by three engines thundered by!  I probably would have stalled it on the tracks knowing my luck.  Anyway his exhaust is rotted and it is a bit musty but what a neat ride!  Comfortable and smooth at 40mph, started on the first push of the button.  I was grinning ear to ear.

  I have been slowed down by a cold an cough the last three days, but will get back at it tomorrow now that my friend has wired up my light industrial compressor... spend over a $1100 on compressor, and they don't even give a wiring diagram, simply reads " contact a licenced electricial for installation. "....

    Well on to blowing out the lines in the morning.
 
Chris

Hi John,
    Thanks, I'll see what I can dig up on that line of Carbs.  I plan to get her mobil by Sunday if possible.  I have to clean out the break and gas lines, reassemble the breaks and then onto the carb and plug wires.

    On the handles I have posted another note in the topic on interior.

Chris

    This is great to read, as I am planning next week to start tinkering on the engine, a friend came over the other day and we cranked the motor, but I don't have a compression tester so we did a "thumb test"... number one cylinder blew his thumb right out of the hole, the rest did too, but not nearly as hard.  I am hoping that the motor won't need a rebuild, at least not this summer.  I cleaner out the oil pan and bottom of the motor and painted the pan.  While removing the 1/2" thick sludge I found an unused and un scarred cotter pin stuck to the pan bottom next to the oil plug.  Maybe it has been there since day one, the sludge seemed to have been there that long!  I filled it up with Quakerstate 10w30 high mileage engine oil before cranking it over.  One plug wire is original, ther others have been replaced and all three replacements are cracked.  New wires, cap, etc will be installed.  I removed the side pan to look at the vavles and see if they were moving properly, which they seem to be.  This area is full of hard black deposits and will be well cleaned before I reinstall the side panel.

  I took a couple photos of the carb, as it appears to have been replaced.  It is still an updraft carb, but now I see why there is a new control on the pass side to the choke.  I could find no markings on the carb, does anyone know what this one is?  I am thinking it might be off a different model, or maybe even a different brand of car entirely???

Chris

    I found nothing under my rear seat, but dust and dirt, seeds and a few dead bugs.  I do have the crank, and something else I don't know what it is...3 moveable arms, one on a worm gear that pulls, all have an odsd shaped hook on the end, possibly to pull the rim off the tire?  That's about it for tools that came with mine when I bought it.  The front edge from the floor up [about 3-4" I would estimate] was covered with smooth black vinyl.  As with the rest of the upholestery this has to be replaced.  I also was missing the front kick panels, but have made a pair after taking a few measurements.  I will cover them with velver to match the doors.  I noted black vinyl in the small area between the dash and the front door edge.

Sorry forgot to note that I found grease pencil marks on the rear pass side corner, second photo on post above.  Some sort of numbering.  Not sure what is meant.  Below are a few more photos.

Chris

Hi Guys,
    With a great deal of work the interior is now almost finished on my 28 Q.  My mom pitched in after a lot of arm twisting and made me two pockets.  I noted that the front pocket on the passenger's door is about 15% larger than the one on the drivers side rear door.  The pockets were backed with a piece of cardboard, onto which was sewn a piece of velour, then the outer skin of the pocket, and though the corners are rounded the sewn portion was sewn square, then clinched tacks and stitching held the whole pocket in place on the panel from the back.  I believe I removed 6 clinched tacks from each pocket.

  I also found that the car must have had the striped bottom on the front seat originally as pieces of it were used to keep the linkage on the front windshield from rattling, while the rest was blue velour.  Also one seat section had one more panel sewn in than the rest, the upholsterer corrected this error on the new seatskins, though I would have preferred to leave it.  I kept the original skins of the seats and complete interior, all bagged up and put away in case needed in the future for reference.  Also of note its strips of vinyl roof material tacked in the doors, perhaps this was done to keep the dust out of the mechanism, or noise reduction???  They are visable in one of the photos attached, some were placed with the black out, others the opposite.  The lines/pattern on the vinyl match the replaced roof, except that they are not as heavily pronounced as the replaced top.  I would say the new top has 50% deeper grooves that the original material hidden behind the door panels.

    The handles on the interior were given a massive amount of polishing by my aunt Geraldine, and where they once were worn through the nickle plating, they now look as brand new.  Turtle Wax Polishing Compound was used by hand with terry cloth towels from the local dollarstore.  The polish shined up the base metal to match the nickle plating believe it or not!  I had to do a double take when I saw the results on the first one, you have to be in good light and up very close to pick out the areas that were worn away.  My aunt did an amazing job on these and saved me a ton of time!

  I used a dark navy blue velvet on the side panels, a lighter color blue on the roof [it appears darker when you put it overhead but provides a nice subtle contrast and lightens up a drak interior] and  ...oh I hate to admit this but... I picked out a navy blue that has a "perforated look" [very classy and taseful I think] which was OEM on 1988-1995 GM Trucks.  Yeah I know I did it, put something Gm on a MOPAR, but trust me it was not a decision that came easily... it took me a week to choose the interior fabrics, and until it all came together I still had doubts.  The seats are very comfortable, I almost fell asleep in the back at about 11pm the other night while putting in the repainted interior window trims, but managed to slap myself in the face and plug away till about 1:30am.  Yeah, I'm totally addicted to this car now!

  I had the seats done professionally as they were so filthy and it would have taken me too long to do myself. I did all the rest of the interior panels and roof liner myself.  I figure I have close to $2K in the interior.

Cost of seat upholstery with material $1,300
Cost of blue velvet ~$350
One roll of batting ~$30
I used two sheets of 1/8" MDF [hardboard] for backing panels ~$35
In the curver rear corners I substituted thin sheetmetal instead of cardboard as the metal proved easier to work with than MDF or cardboars, it held it's shape making covering with fabric much easier.
I used five cans of 3M super 77 spray glue and two packs of tacks, and one pack of 7/8" finish nails ~$100
Polishing compound [handles and dash] ~$7
~$1,857
Plus I still have to find a carpet and rubber mat for the floor.


Well I think that's most of the interior, I have attached a few photos to illustrate, I am working on the breaks and wheels currently.  I could have saved $1,000 on the seats had I done them myself, but it was worht the extra money to me to save time and frustration.  Sorry I have been out of touch for a couple weeks, I have been working full time at the hardware store, only to come home and work till 1 or 2 am on the car, get up at 7am and do it all over again, that's been the last week or two for me!

Cheers,
    Chris

Thinking of Paint - One thing I forgot to mention is that as I was polishing the car I noted a number of areas that the original paint was not lined up exactly with the body lines.  Example: the black on the body "molding" or line is not matched exactly to the curve at the rear of the body.  Another spot of over spray black is on the pass side up near the front window.  I'll try to get a couple photos.  I am liking the idea more and more of leaving the 80 year old paint alone, it's got a few little things like this that make it a good conversation piece and good for reference to show that things were's perfect, although some show cars might be darn close to perfect.  I like it to be slightly imperfect, as all things in the real world seem to be!

Cheers,
    Chris

Chet,
    I think there is possibly one piece of Plywood under the front seat, the rest is all tongue and groove Oak[?].  I painted another coat on the front driver fender and it looks great, really happy.  Tomorrow night I am going to look at some more fabrics and make a decision and run with it.  I think I will go with a different pattern on the bottom, and replicate what I have, may or may not be original, but it seems to match the rest of the interior if you know what I mean.

    Door pockets I am thinking that someone at the plant might have messed up and cut one to fit on the rear door, and let it go rather than cut another for the front with a pocket.

Doug, thanks I'll put in a 10 amp fuse and work up from there, no need to fry anything, fuses are cheap.  Glad the pics of the battery box were useful/helpful.

    Back to work on her tomorrow evening, I should have the Pass side fenders off by Thursday and paint on at least one or two by the weekend, as they are in alot better shape than the drivers side.

   The batteries are dead in the digital camera, I'll charge them, up tonight and take some more pics.  I started to creat a website for the car, but have decided that reality is more important than cyberspace, at least till I have the car a little further along.

  I really appreciate all the input from this list, and I'm very glad I joined!

Cheers,
    Chris

Update on the 28...
    Freont drivers side fender has been straightened and cleaned, coat of primer and one coat of black paint so far.  The body polishing is moving along slowly, with most of the driver's side done, waxing to be done once the car is going back together.  Rear wheels have been removed and the rear brake shoes look good, plan here is to clean it up and then rebuild the wheel cylinder.

    Rebuild kits have arrived for the master cylinder and wheel cylinders, as well as the brake lines and ignition kit.  The ignition kit is still in the original cardboard packages, like vintage 1930's!  The best part is that I had a closer looks at the ignition, and I don;t think any of it needs replacing, though I'll find out shortly.

  The seats have come out, and I am close to choosing the fabric from the samples the upholsterer provided, although the one I am looking at costs $46 a yard, is this too much or cheap???  I am also torn between a blue color I like and one that is very close to the original although I am leaning to the original looking color.  I found it interesting that the bottom of my front seat is covered in a corduroy material and the back portion in something else [appears to possibly be the similar to, or the same as the rest of interior], while the back seat appears to be exactly the same as the rest of the interior panels.  If this front seat was ever reupholstered they did it in such a way that I cannot tell.  Another thing of note to anyone restoring the interior is that the pockets in the door panels are not consistant, in that there is one on the rear door on the drivers side, and one of the front door of the passenger's side.  This to me seems very strange, I would think that only the rear or all four should have the pockets.  Either way it will be restored back to this same alternate pattern when I do it!

    The other minor item I noted is the screws holding the back portion of the front seat, one was robertson the other flat.  The top was robertson, the lower was flat and larger and silver, perhaps even plated.  I will have to look again.  The wooden panels [covered with cloth] covering this did not appear to have been disturbed.  Robertson and Flat headed screws in the wooden body-structure and floor seem to be almost interchangeable!  Is this an interesting Canadian only twist on the first year Plymouths???  The list members in the US and Australia, what did you find as far as types of screws?  Phillips or Robertson anywhere at all?  Are most or all flat head?

    Another thing is two pieces found in the back, one is a piece of metal with a round and a square hole in it that appears to been nailed on and the other is a piece of wood [approx 1.5"x5"x30-36"] with angled cuts on the ends.  I am at a loss as to where these belong in the car, if at all.  The metal surely appears to have been off the car, the wood, I'm not certain on, though it is also very old.  Ideas?

  I briefly put the battery in, and it was reading "discharge" on the ampmeter... I did hook it up Positive Ground... but nothing worked.  I noted a place for a glass fuse under the dash, I think it was behind the ampmeter.  I turner the key a 6th of a turn to the "ignition" position and got the ampmeter reading, but nothing else worked.  I did not have a good battery connection, and one of the old battery cable ende broke as I put it on.  Perhaps this was all that was wrong?  Suggestions?  I was hoping for a kick out of the starter, or a honk for the horn...

  I am pumped to get the motor going now, although I think I will get at the wheels next.

Chris

Ok here's the photos of the battery cradle, note the old plates lying off to the left in one photo, that are fastened together and laid in there to reinforce it.

Chris

    Well the hub puller worksperfectly!  It cost $125 cash to have made, and is made of 1/4" wall pipe with a large nut turned down to fit partially into the top and welded, then a 1" bolt is inserted into that.  The best news is that the rear breaks are in good shape.  Looks like I will have to rebuild the wheel cylinders, which I was expecting anyway.  Attached is a photo of the drivers side rear wheel.  I will get a photo of the puller next time.

Chris