Hi Doug,
   I'll post some photos by this weekend.  I have been progressively working my way into to guts of the car from the outside in.  The interior is coming out next and will be sent out sometime next week to the upholsterer if all goes well.  I breifly took a crawl under and looked at the battery "box" if you can call it that... and it has been reinforced with a couple old licence plates laid in there!  The original metal is there, but it's thin in the front corners, probably where acid ate away at it.  The support is one piece and the top end of the "U" shape appear to be rivited on.  It's more of a cradle than an enclosed box.

Chris

Update

    I have removed the entire driver's side fender/running board.  The rear fender has been straightened and painted, as well as the running board.  I have cleaned an polished the three remaining trim peices and cut the rubber mat to fit the runnig board.  I found it interesting that the original rivets holding on the trim were made of brass.  I saved a couple as reference in case I want to go that route someday.  The hang-up is I can't find my rivet gun and I had to order a piece of aluminum stair nosing for a replacement of the missing outer-edge aluminum piece.

  So on I went to the front fender, and I was pleasantly suprised at how well it turned out, considering the sharp creases in the metal and twisted lip.  I still have to weld up the cracks and grind/sand them out, but at lease it's straight.  I also removed, straightened and primed the front valance piece that wraps around under the rad/frame rails.

  I have found that turtle wax polishing compound brings out the best color and shine in the paint, leaving virtually no marks behind.  I will use this on the entire body then wax with mothers carnuba wax.

    The car was also given it's first bath in many, many years!  It was amazing to see the difference from arrival, to wash and then polishing compound... But the top really showed off, it's virtually spotless.  I used a nylon scrub brush and scrubbed down the groves in the roof with the help of a ladder and my aunt dipping it in the bucket for me.  She's always such a great help to me I truely don't acknowledge her enough.  After cleaning and drying I gave the roof a wipe down with mothers interior protectant, the stuff with that wonderful cherry smell.

Chris

-Pulled by Frustration-
    After the frustration being outbid on many pullers on ebay I have decided that the best method is to have a new puller made.  That way there is no question of fit, or damage, rust etc.  I have dropped off one of my hub caps and photos and drawings of the hub to "Brewster's Machine Shop", a place recommended by a co-worker.  The hub puller is supposed to cost me about 100-150 bucks.  A fellow there used to have about a dozen old mopars, from a 1935 Plymouth up to a 1968 Dart Convertible.  He sold the last one, the Dart two years ago, went all the way out to the other coast, to British Columbia.  He'd like to have another old mopar, but is looking for something requiring little or no work as he is getting up there in age and says he's body doesn't always co-operate...  Anyway he said I should have a puller by the weekend, so we'll see what those brakes linings look like soon!

Chris

I'm not sure if it's also an octane booster, but from what you say running regular is all that is needed and wanted? 

Thanks,
    Chris

I was reading that the 1930's Plymouth L-6 engine has hardened valve seats,etc. and doesn't require lead additive to run on modern unleaded gasoline.  Is this also true for the 28 L-4?  Or should I use lead substitute as this chap in Grand Bay (met him on the weekend he has a 28 as well, but someone else rebuilt it.) recommended?

    I don't want to do any damage by trying to run her without lead... maybe it's when in doubt - add lead???  I picked up a bottle just in case at Canadian Tire.

  Help?

Thanks,
    Chris

Thanks for the help fellows!

  Unfortunately I missed out on two pullers, but I'll keep looking, and if not have something made.  I am working on the driver's side running board, a few cracks and wrinkles to work out, then polishing the trim.  I bought a number of items on ebay for the brakes and tune-up bits, so we should have her running in a couple weeks.  I have a three day weekend so I'll have the fenders and running boards mostly finished by next week.  I am missing the front/outside edge trim on the drivers side running board, so I might have to resort to  piece of aluminum stair edging for now.  My running boards are ribbed steel with four attachment points.

  I saw a set of running boards on ebay on Sunday priced at over 2000 dollars, new old stock in the original packing box!  Wow, priced way out of my league!

    I'd have the running board and rear drivers fender painted by now but my best friend since age 5 lost his uncle on Monday morning and I've been taking time to keep him company.  But that's another story.

    I was up to Grand Bay [small town a few minutes from here] on the weekend and met with a fellow that has the only other 1928 Q in this area.  He said he has some spare wheels and a couple rads, but not sure if I can get him to part with any of it just yet.  He's supposed to drop by to see mine in the near future.

    I was struck by the differences in the cars, perhaps his is a US model, although it supposidly is a local car.  There are differences in the bumbers, reservoir for the master cylinder, dual taillights [these appear to be stock, unless the car is actually a later model??].  I'm hoping to be allowed to take photos of it next time and do a photo comparison of the two.

    Anyay it's late have to hit the hay soon.

Thanks again!

Chris

HI Guys,
    Does anyone know which size and thread is required?  I have seen 2-1/4" with 16 threads or 18 or 20 on the threads... which is the one?

For the next week I'll be working on the dings in the fenders on my 28, but I'd like to get the breaks working before I try to get her running and moving!

Chris "My wheels are stuck too" Osborne

Thanks Chet.  I have applied to join the POC fourm so I can view the photos and post, etc.  I see a number of pullers on ebay, but I'm not sure on the thread size.

Chris

Yes I brought her home on Sunday April 13th!  An overcast day we managed to haul her on a flat deck trailer with nylon straps in between the rain showers.  I've started working on her, took off the drivers side rear fender, which was worst of all, and have is pretty much straightened out.  I'm not going for 100% this trip round, more interested in functionality and stand-off appearance.  Next year I might go further, or perhaps not.  The fender had some really bad kinks, and still has some nasty torch welded lumpy welds that will need to be ground down and sanded out.  Anyway one fender at a time till I get some advice on how to take the wheels off!

Hello,
    I work for Home Hardware in Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada.  The "Chair-Loc" product you mentioned is something I have in stock in my paint department.  I've not used it, but have been told it is good if the chair parts fit well, but if they are really loose, it's not the best solution... not sure how that would apply to the wheels though.  Something I might try on my 1928 Q though I'll try water first if it is required.

Regards,
    Chris Osborne