The control levers were broken off on my 1929 Ply Coupe when I bought it.  I would like to reproduce them but don't have a sample to go by.  A close up photo and the length and height of them would be appreciated. Thanks - Rich

should I tear it apart or NOT !!!!  I just had my ignition coil out of my '29 Ply Coupe. The ignition key was hard to turn. At first I just worked some oil into it that helped some but was not satisfied with the improvement.  Tried avoiding taking it apart because the pot metal lock insert on it had a lot of cracks in it like yours.  Fear of the unknown thing. Not being satisfied decided to tear into it.  As it turned out the insert that the ignition key turns is a spring loaded set of double contacts that needed to be cleaned and lubed (used dielectric grease) and reassembled. It made a lot of difference in the operation of the switch. The contacts were corroded and had to affect the connection to the coil. The insert stayed together but at some point in time the next step will be to reproduce and replace the pot metal insert. Your coil can be tested and a good locksmith can make you a key if you take the coil/switch assy to him. My original coil still works great. Hope this helps. Happy Motoring!!!! - Rich   

Rusty - It did not sell. the reserve was not met.

Did the original retainer have a seal in it and do you have the number of the new seal you installed? Thanks - Rich

Does anyone have a photo of the face of a 1931 Plymouth speedometer? Please post. Thank you. - Rich

It takes a lot of work to get all the copper and brass shining. There is a product sold by PORE 15 that is a two part clear mix that will seal the surface and will stay looking nice.  A search of the internet will show it.  Happy Holidays! - Rich

Here is a photo off the internet of a 1929 Plymouth that may help. some. - Rich

Rusty !!!! I think you might find a NOS pulley on Ebay that will end in aprox. 8 hours from now.  (it is 11.00 central std. time USA ) Look at Ebay #130349788638 Pulley. Hope this helps. - Rich

If the part contour of the pulley permits, the crack should be grooved out, well cleaned (lacquer thinner works well) and then weld or braze. Then then turn (with lathe) and/or hand grind the repaired area back to the original contour and ballance will not be a problem. Good luck with your repair.- Rich

TO 29 doUg: Do you have the part number on the Raybestos wheel cylinders that you mentioned above? Thanks - Rich

Finding a used pulley would be the best fix. If one does not show up your machine shop should be able to turn you one on a lathe. (you will want to get a bid first) As I remember the original pulley is a cast metal and not steel so it won't weld very good, if at all. Here's hoping one shows up.

There is no press fit on the pulley. Penetrating oil and a little heat should do it.

 :oJust noticed I had two of the same photo so took one off and added another. WHOPS! 

Here are the photos you needed. The three mounting tabs on my coil are displayed as it fits on the dash with one at the 12:00 o'clock position. The one with the cover plate removed from in front of the ignition switch still has another plate mounted in front of it which is the plate displayed in the previous thread with lettering on it. My ignition switch turns a little tight and I have worked white grease into it and that helped a lot.  I wanted to remove it and work on it but it is made of pot metal and I am afraid of it coming apart. It has a few age cracks but at least it works for now. Hope this helps.  HAPPY MOTORING!!!! - Rich  

My engine re-builder took the oil pressure valve apart because it was stopped up with old hard oil. It was cleaned and put back in with no parts changed and the oil pressure was checked by hand cranking the engine.  My suggestion would be to count the turns of all the adjustments and put it back that way. Then check the oil pressure by cranking it over with the spark plugs out. Don't forget to rod out (clean) all the internal oil passages.