Author Topic: Dave's 1929 U Resto project  (Read 26327 times)

Articifer Tom

  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 80
    • View Profile
Re: Dave's 1929 U Resto project
« Reply #120 on: June 29, 2017, 02:36:47 AM »
Danm ! That was a good idea . Wish I'd though of that ...  O'well Since there was some nice close up of the clum switches here figure  I adds internal pics


Crazydave

  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 203
    • View Profile
Re: Dave's 1929 U Resto project
« Reply #121 on: June 29, 2017, 10:38:13 PM »
Thanks for the picture. I was getting curious and there was a little play in the switch tempting me, but it it tested out. And if its not broke I figured I better not fix until it was ....

Crazydave

  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 203
    • View Profile
Re: Dave's 1929 U Resto project
« Reply #122 on: July 14, 2017, 09:14:37 PM »
I got the car rewired all exterior lights working.

The wiring harness was missing wire for the dome light, not sure if I am going to just run the modern wire ( it will be hidden) or wait until i order some other items and get the cotton wrap.

I ran across this site catalog here > http://restorationstuff.com/pdf/RestorationSupplyCompany.pdf

It has a lot of good stuff, I haven't found on other sites. Including bulbs and those brass buttons I was looking for.

Also the file host i was using to post pictures changed their policy so I have find a new way. You may have noticed a lot of pages in this thread are missing pictures.

Des28Qau

  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 21
    • View Profile
Re: Dave's 1929 U Resto project
« Reply #123 on: July 17, 2017, 01:01:27 PM »
Hi Guys,
Pantastic link, " Restoration Supply Company " catalog , Thankyou .
Maybe it could be added to " Sources for hard to find parts ". to make link easer to find in the future .
Regards Des.
Des

chetbrz

  • POC MEMBER
  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1348
    • View Profile
    • My Space on the Web
Re: Dave's 1929 U Resto project
« Reply #124 on: July 17, 2017, 05:12:37 PM »
Hi Guys,
Pantastic link, " Restoration Supply Company " catalog , Thankyou .
Maybe it could be added to " Sources for hard to find parts ". to make link easer to find in the future .
Regards Des.

Done !!!
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

29UJohn

  • FOUNDING MEMBER
  • Senior Forum Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 402
  • 1929 U 4 Door Sedan
    • View Profile
Re: Dave's 1929 U Resto project
« Reply #125 on: January 10, 2018, 03:47:43 AM »
There is a fellow that makes the original style hose clamps any size you want for a very reasonable price.
John
1929U 4 Dr

Crazydave

  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 203
    • View Profile
Re: Dave's 1929 U Resto project
« Reply #126 on: April 29, 2018, 11:33:49 PM »
I haven't forgotten about my thread and now I have all my pictures brought over to Chet's photo site, so its a matter of many hours to get the images re-linked from the new host.

Car was rewired last summer, I found someone willing to work on the honeycomb radiator this winter. Most shops will not touch one. I put that in last week, so far no leaks. Also swapped out the homemade distributor base for the original I got with with some spare parts.

I am wondering how much blow by you guys are seeing on your engines. I would assume mine is original, and nearly worn out. There is a lot of build up in the engine compartment so it has been doing that for quite some time in its earlier life. I have also read they are "ventilated crankcases" so I'm sure they have smoked some from day one. I will put a link to a video below, its about 30 seconds showing the amount coming out the breather and other vent. I also warmed up the engine and did a compression test. If anyone else has some numbers and engine condition I would like to compare.

#1 60 PSI  #2 75 PSI  #3 60 PSI  #4 75 PSI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYTMG8T7KDQ

chetbrz

  • POC MEMBER
  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1348
    • View Profile
    • My Space on the Web
Re: Dave's 1929 U Resto project
« Reply #127 on: April 30, 2018, 10:10:10 PM »
Hi Dave,

Prior to the rebuild when I started my car I would have a black spot on the ground from the soot that blow out of the exhaust pipe.  I didn't notice a lot of smoke coming out the back when I drove the car, just at start up when cold.  Also I didn't get many tailgaters. I think I burned/leaked a quart of oil every 100 miles.   Compression was about 50 across the four cylinders.  I am interested to see what compression I get out of the new rebuild.

What are your plans for the restoration.  Mechanicals or aesthetics or both.

Cheers,  Chet...
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

Crazydave

  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 203
    • View Profile
Re: Dave's 1929 U Resto project
« Reply #128 on: May 01, 2018, 12:30:04 AM »

What are your plans for the restoration.  Mechanicals or aesthetics or both.

Cheers,  Chet...

Good Question, don't have a definitive answer. So far its been maintain the car as if it was my driver back in 1930. Fix what needs fixin' and run it. I want to keep it as original as possible. One benefit to this is cost and time. Its cheaper to throw a little money at it here and there, run it until the next issue pops up. Vs rebuilding, plating, painting etc. everything to new. (I'm sure you can speak to that) Problem with the nibble method is the seemingly perpetual assembly and disassembly. Fix one thing, then go at it again. Where if you tore it all the way down and addressed everything, it should be good to go. If I did that, it would be years before I would be driving the car again. I'm going to pull the oil pan, take a look around, clean it up and give her a bottle of Lucas oil treatment. Curious to see if it quiets up and smokes less. I'll also do a compression test again.

Does anyone have any insight on vacuum and how it relates to the oil pump? Here is what I mean. Got the car, vacuum canister was trashed. Vacuum line was hooked up. I removed the can and capped the vacuum line. Ran it that way the first year or 2, keep the dust out. Keep in mind I do not put many miles on, mostly shows or running on private land. I noticed the other year the relation to plugging this and oil pressure. Plugged the oil pressure goes way up, sucking air real low. Left uncapped the last (??) can't remember how long figured it was designed that way and it maybe better off. What I didn't notice before but did this weekend was if I put my thumb on it (plug) within 10 seconds the lifters cladder like they are starved for oil. Did this a few times with repeatable results. Made a video hoping it was audible but it was too windy out. I don't know how accurate my pressure gauge but moves. Wondering if plugging that is a bad thing, furthered some engine wear?  In my mind a bump oil pressure is usually not a bad thing.
« Last Edit: May 01, 2018, 03:10:57 PM by Crazydave »

chetbrz

  • POC MEMBER
  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1348
    • View Profile
    • My Space on the Web
Re: Dave's 1929 U Resto project
« Reply #129 on: May 01, 2018, 02:59:23 AM »
Interesting observation and question.  I kind of considered the vacuum side of the oil pump like the opposite side of a diaphragm fuel pump.  It would make sense that if one side was restricted the other side would be proportionately effected.  I think there would be two considerations, pressure and flow.  Each of these might be effected differently when you also consider the pressure release valve in the block and where the pressure is measured.  I would think that this relationship between vacuum and engine RPM to provide metered fuel flow across both high and low RPM periods would be a delicate equilibrium where even vacuum line ID would also effect the balance.  Obviously Chrysler had it figured out in that no overflow safety measures were put into place. 

It's really a very simple design that appears to work well when everything is in spec.  Traveling at the moment but something to check into.  Will be heading down this path in the near further. 
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

rwollman

  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 34
    • View Profile
Re: Dave's 1929 U Resto project
« Reply #130 on: May 01, 2018, 01:45:08 PM »
Chet - am very interested in the pressure relief valve you refer to in your post as I have never heard of this.  Presently I am running an electric fuel pump in place of the vacuum setup as I could not control the fuel level in the canister which resulted in fuel being sucked in through the vacuum line from the oil pump - not good.  Car does not run as good as vacuum setup although I do not have the correct carb for the car.  (28Q).  I have searched numerous sites in an attempt to ID carb but had no luck.  Thought it might be off an old tractor but don"t believe so as it has an accelerator pump and tractor carbs usually do not.  I would love to go back to original vacuum setup if possible so any info I can obtain would be helpful.  As far as your thoughts on line ID affecting flow I think that one would have to really substitute a much larger vacuum line from pump to canister to cause any negative effects.  ON oil pressure with vacuum canister vs electric pump I have found that oil pressure is increased quite a bit with the deletion of the vacuum line.  I attribute this to fact that there is no oil aeration in pump caused by air.  In reference to the other gentleman's car  and his question regarding oil pressure affecting lifter noise, don"t think this is plausible as lifters are not hydraulic.  Would sooner think there is a lifter to valve clearance problem once engine reaches operating temp. .When you get your engine back I would be very interested in your results of compression test as no one really has posted what good compression reading would be in these engines.  Compression adversely affects fuel mixture settings as it takes more fuel to run low compression engines which also requires retarded timing.  Does anyone have a good way to set timing on these engines?  I know it is set thru #3 cyl on exhaust stroke with a dial indicator at .050-.048 BTDC.  gtotta be a better way..  Just my 2 cents on project.       

racertb

  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 487
    • View Profile
Re: Dave's 1929 U Resto project
« Reply #131 on: May 01, 2018, 06:53:54 PM »
When I was having some timing and running issues a couple years ago (since fixed - needed a new distributor base) my compression test results at the time were as follows (motor was rebuilt in the '80's):

#1 = 57
#2 = 62
#3 = 59
#4 = 57

After the car was running, I used a vacuum gauge to adjust the timing.  Max vacuum was 19hg and backed it down to 17hg.  From there, fine tuned at the carburetor.

chetbrz

  • POC MEMBER
  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1348
    • View Profile
    • My Space on the Web
Re: Dave's 1929 U Resto project
« Reply #132 on: May 03, 2018, 03:05:04 AM »

Not to highjack Dave's Resto Thread I started a new topic for Oil Pressure and Vacuum Fuel pump.
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

Crazydave

  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 203
    • View Profile
Re: Dave's 1929 U Resto project
« Reply #133 on: May 04, 2018, 12:23:14 AM »
ON oil pressure with vacuum canister vs electric pump I have found that oil pressure is increased quite a bit with the deletion of the vacuum line. 

I attribute this to fact that there is no oil aeration in pump caused by air.  lifter noise, don"t think this is plausible as lifters are not hydraulic.  Would sooner think there is a lifter to valve clearance problem once engine reaches operating temp.

 Does anyone have a good way to set timing on these engines? I know it is set thru #3 cyl on exhaust stroke with a dial indicator at .050-.048 BTDC.  gtotta be a better way..  Just my 2 cents on project.     

Definite increase in oil pressure when the vacuum side is blocked. The noise might not be a lifters, but sounded valve train related to me. There is definitely an increase in engine noise, rattle / cladders (not what I perceive as a good sound) when I plugged the vacuum line on mine. Engine was at operating temperature and the noise / condition is repeatable related to the change in pressure. When I get it cleaned an lubed again I will try and see if my phone is good engine to capture the sound. (before the Lucas goes in)

I have set the timing multiple times in less than 10 minutes with no issues. My method - pull the timing screw out of the head above #4 cylinder. I grab a brazing rod drop it in the hole and crank the motor until the rod tops out TDC. Grab my air hose and blow compressed air into the cylinder and listen or feel (I open a starting cup) and see if it blows out the exhaust or into the intake. If its off 180 I crank it around to the next lap. Line the cap / rotor up making sure the timing cable has adjustment for advance and retard. ".050-.048 BTDC" I can't see how out 2 100's of an inch matters when by design you change the timing a fair amount from the cab via a cable. Unless I'm missing something.

Optimizing tuning with a vacuum gauge is something I will try to see how it works. What I have been doing is making small adjustments in multiple driving conditions until it feels good, no pops and has the most power. Adjusting the carb and timing.
« Last Edit: May 04, 2018, 12:25:06 AM by Crazydave »

racertb

  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 487
    • View Profile
Re: Dave's 1929 U Resto project
« Reply #134 on: May 04, 2018, 05:06:41 PM »
It was "old man" who mentioned the vacuum gauge a few years ago...worth a try and will also show if other issues.  My reading was a steady needle at max 19hg then backed off to 17hg so timing not too far advanced.

I was never able to get the screw out of the head over #4...I ended up taking the side cover off turned over the motor by hand until all the valves for each cylinder were aligned in there "correct" position...luckily it worked!