I had a devil of a time with mine.

Yes, they should be steel. Only the brake lines were copper, at least on mine.

Brake and Equipment is the greatest. I drove down there one day and they custom made all my brake hoses in five minutes while I watched. $25 a pop.

We matched up the old wheel cylinders with new Raybestos units for $35 a piece.

They fabricate parts and ship all over the world for anything from Renault Dauphines to Duesenbergs, they are that reknowned.

My U sold yesterday, I have very mixed feelings about it. A very nice fellow with a 40 car collection bought it and I feel it went to the right hands, it is safe.

I want to thank everyone for their help and especially Chet for hosting this site.

I WILL be back to visit.

-Doug

I dont know if anyone, unless they worked the assmebly line, could tell you that to be cetain.

My guess is gloss.

You got it, Rusty. The lever at the top is for the throttle, its used when starting the old girl up since your foot is on the starter switch. The bottom lever, turned to 5 o'clock, turns on the parklamps (if so equipped). Switch it to 7 o'clock and you get low beam and p/lamps and at 8 o'clock, you get high beams and p/lamps.

You may find some pics from my album that will help. Click on the image and then click on "full screen" to get a decent look.

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/567316702mCIufh

Mine needed a four-corner brake job, but the shoes were fine. It was easy seeing how it is the modern hydraulic system that GM and Ford wouldn't adopt until well into the thirties.

If it is wired correctly (in order), that'll be half the battle. Just finding the cloth-covered stock is the other half. Someone else here should know if someone offers repop wiring.

Kingpins, hmmmm. No experience, but I heard they aren't very fun.

Rusty--

Welcome! We require a pic before we will accept you. I am just KIDDING! But, please post one when you can.

I have never seen a shop manual, I havent looked for one though. It would be really nice to have instead of guesswork, the owner manual and the Master Parts Catalog.

Huge plus that it runs and drives! What body style is it?

You have come to the right place!

I checked my 1928-33 Plymouth Master Parts List and found the following:

For the U, there is a header number listed.

There are left/right driprail numbers listed.

The top canvas has a part number listed.

There are seven bows listed, all with different part numbers. This makes sense how as the body shell has a curvature and has different widths. Naturally, it makes no mention if the bows are curved or not. (My opinion is that they are curved, looking at mine shows a distinct arch. I also believe that most everything built up to the mid-twenties had a true flat top, after had the bubble top like our's-- just a guess.)

Because there is NO listing for the north/south slats/struts/whatever in the catalog, was it ordinary (oak?) wood. This means that any old straight 1" x 4" (?) would suffice. Cut to fit. If they were special, there would be numbers for them. Because they are so long, they have some give to bow a little as evidenced in a side view.

Another opinion is that this whole set-up was nailed together. My finish molding on the back and driprails are nailed.

Mine's honeycomb, as well...

Yes, the price is very reasonable for a coupe.

I never thought about it being BS. I would prefer to think of it as such. Thanks Chet!

I dont care if the guy owns it and can do what he wants, this would just be wrong if it gets rodded. Look at this PA, just beautiful. Surely he can find a run of the mill brand X to chop up. The thought of this is a slap in the face of the collector car community. Maybe someone should "rod" HIM! (This was listed in the latest Plymouth Bulletin.)

Thanks for the input! I do have the manual and will check it out as it does seem more likely to be one or more of these steering components.

I got to thinking that if it were the kingpins, there would be some visible movement around them and the I-beam. There is none, they seem to be tight.

I'll give you a report after I get a chance to check it out. Thanks again!

Okay, I thought maybe my U had sensitive steering. I have decided its just sloppy. Very sloppy. I made a short video if you guys could watch it.

The steering wheel has a lot of play, about an 1/8 of a turn while sitting. With the front end raised, while grabbing the tires on the sides and wiggling, there is substantial play. Is it the kingpin(s), tie rod, tie rod ends? I dont think this excessive play is normal and I am very open to suggestions.

Here's the video and thanks a million! (Sorry, the production values are less than stellar using a camera the size of a credit card, held with one hand while wiggling with the other!)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MvBMimqrdoQ

Chet-- I hope the car to be rodded had a VERY bad, rusty body. It REALLY pisses me off when these chuckleheads take a perfectly good antique and destroy it.