• Welcome to 28Q29U Plymouth Forum.
 

News:

NEW FORUM version is here. 
If you are experiencing any problems, contact chetbrz@aol.com
WELCOME Auto Registration is turned OFF. 
In order to register for this forum please contact chetbrz@aol.com to request access.

Main Menu

29 Build Thread - Part 2

Started by chetbrz, November 12, 2017, 10:10:35 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

frankp

It will have to someone else, Chet.  My car is not accessible at this time.   frank
frank p

29UJohn

It is just shy to 3+1/8 inches on my 4door sedan
John
John
1929U 4 Dr

chetbrz


Thanks John,

I believe we went down this path awhile back but just needed to check.  Three inches works for me and if you add the height of the metal you get a little more than 3".  It appears that we have a 9 degree cut on the top of the front pan wood support to facilitate the slope of the rear seat pan to the rear frame.  It all logically comes together.  The sides are a right triangle with a base of 17" and height of 3" using math the calculated angle = 9.8 degrees.  I measured approximately 9 degrees.  So I am in the ballpark.

Thanks for the quick response,  Chet...
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

chetbrz

The Full Floor Project

Due to the length of this task and the number of pictures I posted a link to the blow by blow description below:
The beginning may look familiar but keep scrolling down.

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/Work_files/2018/02162018.htm



Cheers, Chet...

Link to Build Thread Part 1
http://www.1948plymouth.info/28Q29U/index.php?topic=1102.0

http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

29UJohn

John
1929U 4 Dr

frankp

Chet,

Just checked your engine rebuild.  Will be better than original.  4 ring pistons, mine has 3.  Your floor looks great and almost complete.  On to the top next?

frank
frank p

chetbrz

Quote from: frankp on February 28, 2018, 08:56:30 AM
...  On to the top next?

frank

Frank,

I'm not sure what's next.  Really can't close up the top until the dash and steering wheel are set back in.  Doing bits and pieces of odds and ends in between the crappy weather days.  Might do some wiring at least the stuff that will not get damaged if I put the motor back in.

That begs the question "What about paint and body work ?"  I'll say one thing.., you can spend money on a project like this faster than you can think about it.  I thought boats were a hole in the water you throw money into.  Sorry never miss an opportunity to complain.

So while I try to figure out what's next I am gathering up my chrome parts and delivering them to Paul's Chrome Plating in western PA. on Monday.  $$$   :)   Nothing like a long drive to sort things out.

Chet...

http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

frankp

Chet,

Chrome cost should keep you alert on your trip. Let's see, bumpers, radiator shell; I didn't do my headlamps although one is a bit dodgy with shallow dents or tail lamp - good shape.

Surprised the steering column couldn't be installed before the top.  I know you said the light & hand throttle should be in place before top &/or headliner is installed.  I may have dropped the column in the engine compartment to get those controls out/in.

You are so right about feeding these beasts $$$, they are insatiable.  I try not to think about upholstery cost, but really needed it.  Expect to have the heap home next week, weather permitting - can't wait.  Mark did an excellent job.  Now, if we can get handles form Mike B.

Have a safe trip and keep us posted; know you will.

frank
frank p

chetbrz

Hi Frank et al,

We got back yesterday from our trip to Pittsburg to see Paul's Plating.  I am having the front and rear bumpers, radiator surround, and the headlight buckets re-chromed.  I am also having the headlight buckets re-engraved with the manufacturing marks.   Cost $5,650  This includes repairing one of the headlight rings which needs to be soldered.

To add to my financial stress I spoke with the painter today and his work seems to be the least expensive.   I am going to try Maaco.   Before I add anything more to the car I want to get the exterior painted.  Then I will be putting things back for the last time.  Paint only approximately $1,972.30 for two tone paint job. Plus any additional body work.

No pain no gain.  The good news is that the wife seems to be into the program.

PS...   Are we sure that the firewall and dash and door sills were Black and not the body color ?  Any & all Comments Please.

I want to go with my car's original color...  Marine Blue  So the next step is to prep the car for paint.

Cheers, Chet...
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

frankp

Chet,

Goodness the cost of chrome these days!  You are having additional work done though.

You may want to get the top wood installed for stability.  Over spray is authentic, looking at Dave's, but it won't be seen.  Are you having the wheels included in the painting cost?  Same as body color, as you know.

I'm sure of black firewall.  border is where the horizontal meets the vertical.  See Plymouth Club page Judging Guide Group 1 .. Team 4 Engine Compartment

http://plymouthbulletin.com/guides/2012/Group1Team4.pdf

I always believed my dash was body color, but have no real proof.  Same for window mouldings, rear window trim and left/right pieces for windshield.

You'll have a fabulous car when finished!

frank
frank p

racertb

All:

My dash and firewall are body colored, which may or may not be correct (I BELIEVE the dash, at least, is correct).  I see what the judging guide says, but is this fact for every Plymouth ever made or the interpretation of someone who wrote the guide?  Who knows if every car came off the assembly line this way without any variation, whether we're talking about firewall color or anything related to these cars.  Unfortunately, it seems there is a lot of "guesswork" on how they came out of the factory.  Seems like no one really knows 100% and we have to rely on original examples and/or photos which may not always be consistent with each other.

I commend Chet for his due diligence in trying to get his car as accurate as possible, as I would do the same.  Personally, I would go with body color on the firewall like later Mopars...So back to my question, is the guide "gospel" and 100% factual or a best "guesstimate" of how things were or should be?   

I would like to know, not trying to start an argument with anyone.

Ted

29UJohn

Ted,

I agree with all you said.  There were very few of these cars produced in the first few years and documentation on those things is sketchy at best.

I once asked Earl Buton a pin stripe question. He basically told me that no one knows the details for certain on the early Plymouth's.

All we can do is the best we can with what information and clues we have about our early Plymouth's.

John
John
1929U 4 Dr

frankp

I, too, concur.  Earl didn't express the same hesitation with me and was very definitive.  Anyway, as he is the final arbiter for judging, I respected his knowledge (opinion) for how it was done and tried to follow.

Re: firewall color.  Here's Dave's car.  I have an old pic of my dash and will look for it.  Thought it was scanned in the past, but no.   frank

frank p

chetbrz


Very perplexing issue our cars.

First in answer to Franks comments: 

Frank, I agree with getting the roof installed along with any metal work that needs to be fabricated like the top metal door frame pieces.  My original pieces are mostly painted rust.  No.., the wheels are a project in themselves.  Just ask Ted. What a great job he did.  My wheels will just have to wait, right now I have bigger fish to fry. 

As far as the ambiguity of our cars go I have to think Dave's car is my standard at this point.  I am a member of the Delaware Valley Region and one of the other members is a former POC president who owns an original 29 Plymouth 4 door sedan.  Really nice guy Joe Hernandez.  His car hasn't moved in awhile and he said that when the weather gets warmer we could dig it out of the garage so I can get my eyeballs on yet another example of a 29 Plymouth.

Below is a picture of my dash from a work effort I haven't posted yet.  In sanding and working on the dash I believe the Blue that is coming up is the same blue overspray I found on the remains of some original wood pieces.  Can I definitively say that someone else didn't paint this car Blue before it was repainted Red, maybe or maybe it is the original color.  Who can really say.  Below the blue was a very stubborn, porous & gummy black.  This is the same I found on the firewall.  Primer or topcoat ?



I think as time goes on being 100% correct is impossible but getting 85% right might be attainable.  The main and most important thing is to be 120% happy with what you have.  I will have to read over the POC judging guide. The jury is still out but if I am not convinced I will comply to general agreement unless something other than that makes me happy.

:), Chet...
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

frankp

Chet,

As you reiterate, who knows for sure, and they made running changes during assembly.  I have Depressed Beam headlamps; roadster has Two-Lite.  Does this mean along the way both the Two-Lite were replaced on the sedan?  Could be, but they looked pretty neglected when I got it.  Oh well, another deduction, if having it judged.

I met Joe at a summer meet in Grand Rapids, MN.  I'm glad to hear he's still around and, I hope, in good health.  He was very cordial and laid-back and gave me a few suggestions on what was right and needed correcting without being heavy handed. Please say hello for me, although he may not remember me.  With his car and Dave's as examples, you can't help but be correct.  In my old age I have shaded from strictly 100% original, e.g. upholstery.  The blue is as close as I could find to the original and the headliner is a complementary shade of blue.  I've seen the "original" light taupe headliner and didn't care for the way it looked, so...

Woodworker and metal fabricator - what exactly don't you do?!!

frank
frank p