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oil pressure

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--- Quote from: 29UJohn on April 24, 2010, 04:40:36 AM ---Rusty,
Please let us know what Egge says about your oil pump.

Regarding the dipstick and oil quantity, when I bought my 29 in 73, it had a dip stick from a latter model Plymouth that indicated 6 quarts.  I remarked it for four.

--- End quote ---


I must have the same dip stick that you have because I would have to add 2 additional quarts to reach the full line. 

Tks, Chet...

This happened to me once, I changed my oil filled it to the full mark, drove the car some, checked the oil before the next drive and it was low. Put some oil inn drove it again, Checked it later and it was over full. Had to get some out. Havn't had any more problems. But the oil has some place in there it can hang up and not go back to the pan.

I think I found the problem.  The pump checks out by EGGE.  Good shape.  They tested and sent it back.  It appears the copper tube to the brass fitting on the suction side of the pump is leaking.  When the engine started, oil would come out of the hole which the oil pressure gauge would mount to.  The oil ran out, not under pressure, more like it leaked out.  I took the brass fitting and screwed it to the copper line and mounted brass fitting with clear rubber hose to the pipe thread side that would screw into the oil pump.  I used mouth suction and could suck up oil but bubbles could be seen  in the line.  I then used some teflon tape between the flare of the copper tube and mounting surface on the brass T, now no bubbles seen. 

 The question I have is should I just tight the snot out of the copper tube to brass T or should I use a little red gasket sealer between the two?  I understand that I could get some sealer into the brass T which would get sucked into the pump and pushed to "bad" places somewhere in the oil system of the engine.

You could try tightening the snot out of it.  Most likely it is either not lining up straight, or the flare is damaged, or (hopefully not) the brass T-fitting male end is damaged.

I recommend making a new copper intake line.  As Gary said, it is a real pain, and will take some time, but that would be the best thing to do.  I remade mine after the engine was rebuilt.  I used one of those coiled spring benders.  As for the attachment to the center bearing, best to replace that fitting with a modern type compression fitting, if not already done so.  

Update.  Still does not work.  I got the oil pump back from EGGE and they said it was within normal limits.  I then made all new copper lines.  That is a pain.  It took 4 trys before I got a acceptable line.  I would bend just enough to kink them which then a small crack would happen at that spot.  I also replaced all brass fittings.  It does not look orginial but they will work.  I retight all fittings in the crankcase.  I then poured oil in the pump (vac fitting) and cranked, no oil pressure.  I have the spark plugs out (Increased the crank RPM) and then disconnected the oil line and just watched to see if oil would come out.  Nothing.  I then plugged the vacuum port on the pump and cranked, nothing out the oil gauge hole.  I had my wife crank the engine and I put my thumb over the suction side of the oil pump, I could not feel a suction.  Should you feel anything, weak or strong?  
Can I run the engine with vacuum side plugged?  Minutes or hours or years???
Should I test run for a 10 seconds with the vac plugged and see what happens??
I put fitting on the suction line and could suck up oil thru the line by using mouth suction so oil can get from the pan to the pump.
THis stupid pump has set me back about 1-2 months.


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