On it's way! Let me know when you receive it.

I can email the two page article.  It is  in color and 1.7Meg.  The entire bulletin is packed with color photos and is a very large file.

Does anyone know someone who makes Reproductions of the wiper vacuum valve that mounts to the dash?

Do you have assist straps that are attached to the top of the rear pillars, for the back seat passengers to use? 

It looks 95% original to me.  It even has the original carb and air cleaner.  The door handles look good.  The bumpers are 28 but the engine is a 29.   There were not that many Canadian Plymouths built. Maybe it was made in early 29?  The pad around the steering column is original.  I am glad you are taking lots of pictures.

Bottom line, the front seat back is a very snug fit.  After the eight screws are removed, it will appear to not move. You have to work with it, try tilting it back, then lifting it out.  It is pretty heavy.

It must be removed to uploster it.

Correct, no bolts hold the bottom, but there are two bolt heads in the floor boards that fit into recessed holes along the bottom of the seat back on each end.

My guess it was hand painted.

I had four sets of hubcaps for 1929 Plymouth wood spoke wheels reproduced and am offering three sets at cost to Plymouth Owners Club members.  These are the "hex" style.  They are cast of marine grade aluminum alloy and can be polished to look like chrome.  The faces are solid which should be less prone to damage than the originals.  As a result, these new hubcaps are almost three times as heavy as the originals.  They fit perfectly and the script "P" on the front is accurate.  However, due to the casting process, there will be some minor cosmetic flaws.  The left two hubcaps in the accompanying photo have been professionally polished.  The unpolished cost is $170 each plus S&H.  A set of four is $700 including S&H.  For professional polishing (by Dan's Polishing and Chrome) add $45 each.  30 day money back satisfaction guarantee, less S&H.  John Fain, 10038 Willow Cove RD SE, Huntsville, AL 35803.  Phone 334-718-6624, call 9 am to 8 pm Central.  Email: JohnRFain@gmail.com

You have to remove the upolstery panels nailed on the side piller above the seat.  There will be four screws to remove on each side.

This car is a fantastic find!

Note also the pinstripe details on the front and back.

     When installing new tires recently on my 29U Plymouth, I took a close look at the location of the rim latch and the apparent counter weight on the fellow.  I noticed that when installed, the rim latch is exactly 180 degrees from the apparent counter weight.  Also, some of my rims do not have the rim latch but instead have what I call a hinge pin.  Previously I had a bad shimmy that would occur at 35-40 mph or if I hit a bump.  I noted that previously I had a rim on the front right wheel with the hinge pin type.  I decided to put rims of the latch type on both front wheels.  When I test drove the car, no more shimmy!  Since I have four rims of the latch type and three of the hinge pin type, I used the four latch type on my wheels and one of the pin types for the spare.
       

Chet,
I can loan you the original dash from my car. It had too many holes cut into it to use otherwise.  I used it to move my car to the paint and body shop.

John

I purchased a stainless steel seamless tone that had an OD of 1.000 inch.  I was able to remove the four rivets with a punch.  They are the press fit type like used for putting data plates on starters, generators, etc. what was interesting is one had a small head allowing me to punch it through to the inside, the other one ( on the same end was slightly larger so I punched it out from the inside.  The end pieces are castings and the insides of the "cup"where the rod goes in is very rough.  The original tube is slightly thin and it appears that the end pieces were hammered on, distorting the ends,  then riveted. The whole thing appears to have been rapidly put together without much attention to detail. 
  Anyway, I had to custom taper the ends of the replacement tube with a grinding wheel so they would fit.  I then fitted the ends on and adjusted them, then drilled the holes for the rivets using a 9/64 inch bit, and Ahmed in the rivets.  I was able to reuse the original rivets.  Now to the powder coater.

Ted,

I agree with all you said.  There were very few of these cars produced in the first few years and documentation on those things is sketchy at best.

I once asked Earl Buton a pin stripe question. He basically told me that no one knows the details for certain on the early Plymouth's.

All we can do is the best we can with what information and clues we have about our early Plymouth's.

John