• Welcome to 28Q29U Plymouth Forum.
 

News:

NEW FORUM version is here. 
If you are experiencing any problems, contact chetbrz@aol.com
WELCOME Auto Registration is turned OFF. 
In order to register for this forum please contact chetbrz@aol.com to request access.

Main Menu

Vacuum Fuel Pump

Started by chetbrz, December 04, 2019, 06:46:58 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

chetbrz

I had nothing. The setup pictured in my last post will work fine. Thanks for the offer to make one.

Just trying now to make all this stuff look reasonable.  Adding glass bowl and shut off valve.  Starting to look a little crowded.
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

Russ T. Fender

Looks are secondary.  The key factor is a tight system with no leaks.  Most of the issues with vacuum tank systems boil down to fittings that are not 100% air tight.  I use the heavy yellow teflon tape on all the joints.  I trim the excess off so it does not show.  If you use it just be sure it starts far enough back on the threads so that it can't interfere with flow or break off and block the line.

rwollman

Chet - that looks like it will work just fine - if I remember right I think fitting on oil pump vacuum was different but cant remember for sure - I f u need anything like that made I would be happy to give it a whirl for ya.

chetbrz

Many thanks for all the suggestions and comments.  I think this job turned out OK.  I know the conversion fittings will work without leaks because I used this setup on the high pressure side of the oil pump (45psi) without any leaks.  The vacuum side is much less pressure.   I used Teflon tape on the fuel input fitting.  The threads were a little worn but the fitting tightened up nicely with the tape.  :)

Here is how it looks completed:





Here is the rest:



To absorb vibration, I used the rubber fuel line rather then hard piping the carburetor.   I primed with the recommended 16oz of fuel plus an additional 4oz for the glass bowel and carb.  No leaks but I still need to do a few more things before I attempt to fire up this engine again.  Very happy with the progress.  Fingers crossed for the functionality.

Chet...
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

ski

Looking good Chet! I need to do that and stop messing around with pumps and regulators.

chetbrz

Quote from: ski on December 16, 2019, 10:00:37 PM
Looking good Chet! I need to do that and stop messing around with pumps and regulators.

Time will tell if it works. I still need to fix a few things before I can test it.  Like you I've been thinking about fixing this since I purchased the car.  I think I might be able to cross it off the list.

Fingers crossed.
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

rwollman

Chet - looks like only difference in your setup is  the fuel bowl - the one I used is a top inlet.  Do you have inline filter someplace. I hid it just under firewall but still accessible from under hood. 

chetbrz

I think I'll go with what I have.  The inside area of my tank was cleaned and painted a couple of years ago.  It's now clean and sediment free.  I do need to fix the gas gauge and gas line to the pump.  Also need to hook up a modern oil gauge to check the reading of my 90 year old original gauge.  I don't want to risk any engine damage due to lost pressure if I got something wrong with the fuel setup.
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

chetbrz

#23
Well I guess the vacuum fuel pump is working.  I ran the car for 3.5 hours today.   Everything seems to be working as expected. 



When I first fired up the engine, the oil pressure wouldn't pass 20 psi so I immediately shut down and adjusted the Oil Pressure Relief Valve.   The first attempt brought the pressure to 60 psi.  I backed off three turns to 42 psi.  I made periotic half turn adjustments to try and find a sweet spot.   I settled at 35psi for slow idle and 42 psi for high rpm.  It seems that once you set the high setting that is it.., no matter how fast the engine runs.   As the engine ran over time the oil pressure dropped about 2 psi to stabilize at 40psi for high and 30 psi for low idle. 



My stock gauge reads high by approximately 10psi.  I will continue to play with this but I think I found a good running setup.  Obviously if I increase oil pressure I will also be increasing Vacuum to the fuel pump.  It seems to work just fine at 40 psi for high and 30 psi for low idle.   I will probably tweak it up another half turn to compensate for the drop off as the engine heats.

Also.., Glad to report that the rebuilt generator is working great so the next step will be fine tuning and installing the drive shaft.
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

frankp

Good for you, Chet.  Your in business.
frank p

racertb


Articifer Tom

Looking good Chet . Question the air cleaner you have on there is it open on bottom ( inlet end ) or is air go in slits ? Would be wondering if bottom is open and at speed would be forcing air in changing mix . I know Carter as both fin open both up and a down direction type . Depending on carb inlet . Most Mopars carb inlet left on right side of engine . Most Chevy's opposite .

chetbrz

#27
Tom, The air cleaner is spiral fins. Theoretically the air is moved in a spiral motion to separate dirt.  Remember I said theoretically. In any event the old car never ran this good.  I just touch the starter and the car starts.  Of course spark control set out to start. In for driving.  Manual advance.

BTW. The carb setup is correct. So is the air cleaner.
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member