These discs are 1/4" and he sent 6. I called and ask where should I put the last one and he said the front. 6 discs at 1/4" are still a little short of the original 5 at 5/16" but only 1/16" so I added a washer between the lugs on the driveshaft and the disc to make it up. I used all the waffle washers I had but had to use some regular washers which are also thinner. I added a washer on the other end to make up for that. When installed with the weight on the wheels the shaft was just touching and had no pressure or gap.

I am going to find another solution and it won't involve any discs made like his!
These look like they might be better. I also may just have a regular driveshaft built with a slip joint.
https://www.colletizer.com/store/p72/Universal_Joint_Flex_Disc_and_New_Washers_L373T.html#/

The last post about the clutch install actually happened a couple o weeks ago. Fast forward to Thursday. My wife is planning on driving the 29 in our local Jim Bowie parade a week from Saturday (today). I thought I had everything good to go but we wanted to drive it on a hot day to make sure it won't overheat. She drove it around town for about 30 minutes and I got the call. I'm in trouble the car made a lot of noise and now it won't even roll and its in the middle of the street.

When I got there and crawled under it I saw why. The front of the driveshaft had torn loose on two of the three lugs and was wedged against the e-brake as you can see in the picture. The discs were new and had less than 20 miles on them. I'm not going to say where they came from but most of you know. If you have these discs I hope you have better luck than I did.

I went home and got some tools then spent about 30 minutes under the car getting the driveshaft out. We borrowed a rock from someone's yard decorations to chalk the wheel so it wouldn't roll away when I got it unhung. Then we carefully towed the old girl home and got the neighbors to help us push it in the garage. Not fun on a 100 degree day!

I have the old discs back in for the parade. They are in terrible shape and I used fender washers where they were the worst. Even though they are very old they were still together when I replaced them and I feel they are made out of far better material than the new ones I bought.

I informed the seller and he claimed his discs were stronger than the old ones but he has had a "few" problems with them. There is no way they are as good as the old material as they are mostly hard rubber with some strings in them. I am going to put the pieces in a envelope and send them back.

I was surprised at the the turnaround time too. The most amazing was Kentucky Clutch. I was tracking the clutch and it said it would be delivered on a Friday. Thursday afternoon I got a call from them asking for payment. I ask when did you get it? He said this morning so it was ready to ship back the day before I expected them to get it!

I had it running a couple of weeks ago but couldn't get my pictures to upload. No matter how I resized them the forum said they were too big. I finally deleted them off my computer and resized them as I loaded them back and it worked.

Hooray I finally got the pictures to post! I have tried off and on for days and it took several tries tonight.

Here is the other side of the pressure plate the home made pilot tool and the rebuilt starter. He even put a new tag on it! I used a piece of pvc a 3/4" dowel rod and some aluminum tape for the pilot tool. The transmission went in the first try.

The clutch isn't as smooth as I had hoped but its a pretty solid disc with no springs or marcel so I'm not surprised.

The starter spins it over very easily and it starts in a few seconds cold. When its warm it starts instantly. 

I'm going to try this again. We have had out of town family here so I haven't been online much.
The starter ring and clutch were in pretty bad shape and the starter was even worse so I tore into it. When I got it apart I found that at sometime in the past someone had put a ring rear on that was several thousands bigger in od and id. To make it fit they had to turn the flywheel down about .125 and put a spacer on it. I am guessing they had to do that because a spacer that would just make up the small difference would have been very thin and impossible to make. The slightly larger od made the starter bendex bottom out and eventually broke the shaft between the set screws that hold the bendex on. It still worked which is pretty amazing.

I purchased a original ring rom Al's ring gears and to make it work I had to have the spacer (still on the flywheel) turned down about .025 to get the proper interference fit of .020.

I had the clutch rebuilt at Kentucky Clutch. They found the original pressure plate was cracked and sent one a little different. I am guessing its a little later model. I sent the throwout bearing in with the clutch and they returned it after checking it. They shipped the clutch back the same day they received it!

I took the starter to Classic Generator in Midlothian Texas and he rebuilt it with a new armature and had it done in a week! I'll put the rest of the pictures in a reply

We have the 29 touring back together and drove it around town the last few days. I don't think I am brave enough to go out of town in it yet. Your car is a head turner! I hope you didn't cause any wrecks from people looking when they should be driving.
That's the wrong picture. I am working on a thread on the clutch install but I am not very good at this forum stuff. Oh well

Still haven't closed the deal so we are just continuing on like it was ours. She says it is but seems in no hurry to be paid. The flywheel has been the hold up but it should be done today. I have the clutch and starter back already.

From what I have found here is what I think happened to the old girl. At some point it needed a starter ring. Probably the only one they could find had a little bigger id in the range of .015. They couldn't make a spacer that thin so they turned the flywheel down about .125 and made a spacer. When I got the correct ring the flywheel/spacer is now about .015 too big to give the correct interference fit. I found a machine shop to turn it down.

That starter ring wasn't really correct on the od either and although it has the same tooth count its a little bigger. That made the teeth in the starter drive bottom out in flywheel. The tops of the teeth are shiny from the wear and they should never touch.

That caused another problem. It eventually broke the armature in the starter from having to flex every time it engaged. How did it still start you ask? The starter drive has two set screws that tighten down on a flat on the  armature. It broke between the screws and the starter drive held it together.

Classic Generator found a new armature and rebuilt the starter in two weeks!

Sorry this is so long but you asked. I'll post some pictures when I get ready to put it back together.

She is looking good! I am liking the lines of these cars better all the time.

I will probably have the flywheel resurfaced but it looks a lot better than the pressure plate. Not many automotive machine shops have a lathe that can swing a 13.5" flywheel so I will have to find a regular shop to cut down the spacer for the ring gear. The exact size it needs to be will be stamped on the ring so that's on hold until it gets here.

Kentucky Clutch ask me to send the throw out bearing with the clutch so until it gets back I won't know if they did anything to it or not. It looked and felt good except for two little worn spots where the fork pushes on it. I don't think that will affect anything. I'll post some pictures when I get all the parts back.

Its been anything but quiet at our house but my computer was in the shop and I don't do much on my phone so I haven't posted anything. The 29 touring still isn't in our name but since the owner is a friend I am working on it anyway. The flywheel ring gear is in really bad shape and has even been turned over and ran that way for who knows how long. It wasn't far from its last start. I pulled it out and when I did I discovered the pressure plate had some pretty bad cracks and one finger was running on the side of the throwout bearing instead of the face. The starter made a coffee grinder sound like a angel playing a harp. The flywheel has a spacer under the ring gear, it seems someone has used a ring that is no longer available and made the spacer to make it fit. I have one that should work ordered from Al's ring gears but I will have to find someone with a large lathe to take about .013 off the spacer which is still on the flywheel.

I shipped the clutch to Kentucky Clutch Monday evening and they called me Friday for payment saying they had received it that morning and were ready to ship it back! If it works right that is amazing service! I took the starter to Classic Generator in Midlothian Texas and he tore it down while I was there. It too was in really bad shape. He is a little behind but said he would have it in a couple of weeks.

I pulled the top off the transmission and to my surprise it looks really good. I made a new gasket for it, washed it out with some mineral spirits and will fill it with some quality 80-90 weight Lucas gear oil when I get it back in.

With all the things wrong and worn out the old girl still started every time. What a amazing testament it is to the quality of these old cars.

My goal is to get it all back and running by our local parade June 20th. If everything goes ok I should make it.

Quote from: Russ T. Fender on April 09, 2022, 07:09:52 PMThat is a great idea.  I am looking for the windshield riser mechanism for my 30-U coupe.  They are as scarce as hens teeth but you never know.  Condition is not that important as the gears are available from the Filling Station.  What I need most is the crank handle mechanism but the whole set up would be great.  Chevy used a splined shaft set up for the crank handle and Plymouth used the square shaft but otherwise they are the same.

Are you ok with the Chevy unit or only the Plymouth flavor? Since its small if I am lucky and find one I'll get it. I may get phone #'s from you and anyone else wanting stuff and I'll call from there and make sure I am getting the right part and if the price is ok.

We plan to go to the Pate Swap Meet later this month. Its huge and we are not able to walk the whole thing but will cover part of it anyway. I was thinking that if I had a list of 28-29 parts people needed we might stumble on to something. I couldn't buy and ship a bunch of stuff but maybe I could connect someone to a vendor and they could work out the details.

Quote from: chetbrz on April 03, 2022, 09:50:31 AM

Quote from: Touring29 on April 02, 2022, 10:32:57 PMThe serial # is U26664 The casting # is 301029-2 with 22529 above it and a H below it. It has no water or fuel pump. I may be wrong but I think it may be the original motor.
After it sat for a couple of hours I checked it again and it shows 1/2 way between the add and full marks with 4 quarts.  I can't believe it took awhile to drain down since the filler is not far from the pan. I think I'll call that the new full and hope it leaks less. Thanks everyone

b
Sorry I thought I had a list of engine serial numbers but I can't find it. Anyway I would think that your engine is original to your car and manufacture in 1929.  You are only 5,000 different than my engine number and my car was built in the March 1929 time frame.  I think it's a safe bet that it is a 175.4 CID.  Your car may have rolled of the assembly line roughly around that same time.

I am amazed at how well it runs for a engine over 90 years old. It starts easy and never smokes even a little bit. The brake and clutch pedals are worn smooth in places so its not a low mileage garage queen. One of these days I'll get a borescope and see if I can see a oversize stamp on the pistons.

Quote from: Russ T. Fender on April 03, 2022, 12:41:36 PMI searched for them for years to no avail.  I used the best of the ones I had and found a few at Hershey over time. They are out there but finding 30 of them will be a challenge. I will be picking up a spare rear end and transmission over the next few weeks but don't know if the universal joints are there.  If they are you are welcome to whatever washers are there.  I'll let you know one way or another after I pick the up.

I got my discs from Tom at Then & Now and he said he looked into making the washers a few years ago but the tooling would be around $1000 so he didn't. He did say regular washers can be used as long as all the edges are smooth. My plan is to use the ones I have in the front since its harder to get to than the back then use grade 8 washers for the rest. I noticed that the most wear seemed to be between the spiders and the first disc so I am thinking about using fender washers there. I need so many because the rear was missing almost all of them the front was missing a few and since the discs Tom makes are 1/4 instead of 5/16 I will have to use 6 instead of the original 5.

If you come up with some or I find any I will switch them out. Pate Swap meet is later this month and I am going to look there. Thanks

I need 30 waffle washers to put them back in original form. Does anyone have any they want to sell?