Can anybody tell me what was the original thickness of the running boards on the 29 U.  I am in the process of redoing them and I want to get it perfect.  I think it goes to the style and lines of the car.



Tks,  Chet...

The gas tank in my 29 has been giving me trouble since I bought the car, so this weekend.., out it came.  It has a number of issues but it is still pretty solid after all these years.  A little body solder and a good interior gas tank paint should do the trick.  I would also like to find the tank gauge that was originally used.  I would be interested in one that was in any condition so that I could fabricate the parts to make it work again.  If anybody can help.., it would be appreciated, even another complete tank with all the appropriate parts if it is in a restorable condition.



I am looking for a Gauge, Float & Cap assembly Plymouth part number 42666 or 300539.  This is the listing the Plymouth Master Parts List gives for a Model U prior to RS-400-L.  My car is RY-888-W.

I don't think this setup was unique to only Plymouths.  Does anybody have any info on this part or does anybody sell reproductions.

Tks,  Chet...

Chet...

The wife & I were out on a typical Sunday hunt through a local Antique Mall when I ran across this M.B. Holster Tire pump which I picked up for peanuts.   Definitely a precision made tire pump which is mostly brass with a full 22 inch stroke.   I am overwhelmed with the quality and construction of this vintage tool.

My plan is to build a display box for this, my Atlas rim tool, accompanied by the vintage hub puller which I picked up at the Hershey show this year.

My question is does anyone know anything about this manufacture:

M.B. Holster
Richland, PA



Tks,  Chet...

It is October and the weather here in Virginia is 90 degrees at 5:00 PM with clear blue skies.   I took the 29-U out for a spin and turned 300 miles on the odometer since I brought her home last year.  She is getting to be a regular driver in that the last couple of times I took her out I didn't have to fix anything.  Ya.!!!   Actually on my adventure today I forgot to take the usual tool bag and didn't even give it a second thought.



Well my winter project besides the restoration work I am doing to my 48 Plymouth Special Deluxe is to respoke the wheels on the 29. 



I plan on providing a step by step description of what I will be doing including diagrams and pictures.  It costs somewhere in the $300 to $400 dollar bracket per wheel to have someone do this.  Most of the cost is labor so I think I can accomplish this for about $75 to $100 dollars per wheel.  Including the tools purchased.



I installed a spindle duplicating device on the wood lathe I purchased from another car buddy.  Cost $40 plus the duplicating device which was $150.  So I am into this at the moment for about $190 which is less then the cost for one wheel.

The wood is Kiln Dried Hickory and can be purchased form a couple of Pennsylvania wood shops cut to size and planed square.

Chet...

Well I got the vacuum fuel canister apart.  It appears to be in pretty good shape.  There is one pin hole in the bottom of the exterior canister but that is easy to repair.  I did break the sediment bowl trying to remove it.  The casting just disintegrated.   O! well no pain no gain.  The device cleaned up real well especially after sitting in the parts washer for a couple of days.  It will be fun getting this old technology working again.  Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Chet..

KINGSTON PRODUCTS CORP
Kokomo Indiana  -  Model 39
Date Code   5 / 30
COULOMBE PAT'S
JAN 18, 1921    -    AUG 1, 1922
APR  7, 1922    -    JAN 22, 1924

I am driving up for the Saturday Fly market (Oct 13).  I would like meeting and having a beer or coke with any member of this forum.

Chet...

I got around to fixing the poor job the previous owner of my car did on the sun visor.  Below is the before picture.



Not even close to what it should look like.  I removed the sun visor and incorrectly mounted wood piece.

I picked up a nice piece of 3/4 by 1.75" oak in Home Depot and cut and shaped it to mount under the roof material.

A little batting and reaffixed the roof material.

The picture below is the result of my work.  Not perfect but I think much better.



Chet...

I jumped into the 29 and took a ride to Jim Yergin's home in Warrenton, VA.  The drive was approximately 42 miles with a top speed of approximately 45 mph.  I stopped for a quick equipment check at the Manassas Battlefield Park.  Picture below.



I am very envious of Jim's shop which is a three car garage with a full standup attic above.  Jim has every tool imaginable and what isn't store bought is home made, from the sand blaster to the power coat oven.  Jim's car is looking great and the woodwork Jim has done.., is in a word..., excellent.   I can't wait for next year and maybe Jim will bring his 1941 Plymouth Woody to the Sully Plantation Car show next Father's Day.

After taking a tour of Jim's historic Victorian home we jumped into the 29 and took a quick drive through the beautiful Virginia country side.  A great trip for my car and a real pleasure to visit Jim's beautiful home.  Total round trip miles 84.

Chet...

George,  Did you see this post.

Bill on the POC forum wrote this to me about removing the rear hubs.  I haven't tryed it but I thought you might be interested:

****
Hi Chet, back in the 60's an old guy helped me with mine being a young guy at the time. The part he used was a threaded piece of steel. It has inside threads and a 4 inch stock to tap a rubber or wood mallet on the end. It pushes the axle in about 3'4 to 1 inch. and the wood wheel and hub fall off. I have always used this tool to take the back hubs off my axles. I may be able to send you a picture to you email address.

Also found this referenced post on the AACA ( Tks, Jim )

Another method to remove a wheel is to:
If you are removing the driver side rear wheel, jack up the passenger side wheel.
Use a wheel knocker on the end of the axle or screw the nut out until it is even with the end of the axle.
Now, hit the end of the axle/nut on the driver's side and the wheel should come loose on the axle.

Chet...

Looking for a Picture of an engine hand crank for the 1929 Plymouth.  Most important is the correct size of the crank and would need a picture of the end that attaches to the motor. 

Reason,

I see these from time to time in all types of places including Antique Stores.  Basically I need to know what a Plymouth Engine crank looked like so that I can recognize one when I see it.  There are a half a dozen engine cranks on eBay but most people don't know for sure what car they were for.  Just something they found in the barn or the garage.

Any help would be appreciated,  Chet...

Also,  Are you familiar with how the Wagner Lockheed brakes are adjusted. 

Are you using a tool or trying to do it by feel.??  If you are doing it by the touch & feel method..., try this link as a quick reference.

http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/p15pdf/brake.pdf

Plymouth used this type of system through to the 50's.  If the quick reference confuses you do it your way.  There are a lot of methods but basically the idea is to get shoes as close to the drum surface as possible.  Use the outside adjustment to finish up.

Originally I think the 1929 mechanic used a drum with holes cut in it so as to use a feeler gauge between the shoes and the drum surface.

Chet...

I took the 29-U out for a 76 mile drive on July 4th.   The weather was beautiful so why not.  I encounter many different types of road conditions from average city streets to super highways and also deserted country roads.   The car ran great.  It looks like my Gas problems are behind me now.  The 2 psi electric fuel pump along with cleaning out the gas tank really made a big difference.

Along the way I make a wrong turn and found myself on a three-lane highway with six miles to go before the first chance to exit.  I ran her up to the blazing speed of 50 mph with throttle to spare.  I turned on my newly installed 4 way flashers to warn motorists of my high rate of speed.  Many drivers were impressed and gave me the thumbs up as I passed them.  Some drivers were so impressed that they sent me the "You're number one sign".   At least that is what I figured they meant in that they only held up one finger.  My wife said that I should wave back so I gave them the "Your number one sign in response to their generous tribute.

What a great 4th.  Picture below is a memento of the trip.  A one lane crossing on the way to my Daughter's Townhouse in Leesburg.  Here again while snapping the picture of my car on the one lane crossing the other drivers waiting to cross kept giving me the "You're # 1 hand sign.  What a friendly town...



PS....   The wife wanted me to confess that no motorists were angered or annoyed by my escapades on July 4th.   I just thought my version of the story was funnier.   I will say that everyone who ran across my car on Wednesday either on the road or off were very happy to see the old Girl still on the road.

Chet...

I attended this show on Father's Day, for a commentary & pictures click on the link below.



Depending on your connection speed it might take a couple of minutes to load...

http://www.chetscoins.com/1929/photogallery/SullyShow2007/2007_Sully_plantation_car_show.htm

Chet...   Accompanied by my Wife Melissa, with daughters Melanie on the left and Carrie on the right.

As reported by my friend Don...

Hooked up with Chet (and another co worker Sergio Tron from Chicago) this evening and went cruising in Chet's 1929 Plymouth. Car mostly ran great (Chet really needs to work on his gear shifting) on the first leg of the trip. We went to a local cruise in at a Chicaflet (or what the ever it is called) drive through joint. I rode this leg (shotgun) in the front seat and let me tell you Chet is a good guy but we were a bit too close for security purposes especially when Chet grabbed the emergency brake handle. We hung around at Chicaflet for a while and elected to check out the other action in town. Hit the highway running well. At the first stop light Chet's son-in-law pulled up beside us and challenged us to a race. Chet goosed the engine a few times and when the light changed the race was on. I now know how blueskies will soon feel as this was not much of a race. Sorry to say Chet lost big time. Down the road a piece we encountered a bit of a hill. That is when the problems started. The engine was surging as if starving for gas. Chet skillfully drove to the nearest Sunoco and filled up with 260. We had about 3 miles to go to get home (with a stop at the 7-11 for breweskies). This part of the trip was done in short segments due to the car not running well at all. Had to pull over several times and give the car a rest. But the old Plymouth made it home under its own power. All in all a fun drive. Here are a few pictures.









I am still having gas line problems but noithing that can't be fixed.    A great night with good friends....

Actually at the cruise-in a guy asked if I were going to install hydraulic brakes.  I told him I didn't have to because Plymouths came stock with hydraulic brakes in 1928.

Chet...

Since I have little operational experience with a 1929 Plymouth I was curious about a few things.

Question 1: This drive was a 28 mile run driving at an average of 45mph with few stops.

As learned earlier the radiator doesn't stay filled to the top and will find it's own level.  I didn't have an apparent problem with over heating but it was an 85 degree day and the last 15 miles it appeared that the engine sounded like it was running hot.   I can't explain the sound just a familiar sound of a block running hot.  The next day I could only fit in a Quart of water which quickly spilled out once the engine got hot.

The radiator was cool on the bottom and hot on the top upon completion of the run which I believe is normal.  Does this sound normal and if not will adjusting the timing help. ?

Question 2:  Noise in the bell housing:

The bell housing sounds like it has marbles bouncing around inside.   The noise doesn't appear to be coming from the engine and was there prior to changing the transmission.  I didn't find anything loose and kinda suspect the clutch arm in the bell housing vibrating or the throw-out bearing bouncing on the clutch arm that depresses the pressure plate.     Anybody have any ideas?

Chet...

The good news is that the differential contained the correct amount of oil.  Maybe I should say oil and sludge.  The Plymouth Instruction Book for the 29 U had no recommendations for cleaning this area but I felt after 78 years that maybe it was about time.  The oil was black and had the consistency of molasses.  The amount of sludge was incredible and needed to be spooned out of the bottom of the differential casing.



For a blow by blow click on the link below...

http://www.chetscoins.com/1929/Work_Files/Drive_Train04252007.htm

Chet...

Took advantage of a nice Saturday before the rains of April came.

-   Rebuilt and installed the Parking Brake Assembly from the two assemblies I had.
-   Installed the Drive Shaft and new disks. ( What a pain )
-   Got one more rear wheel finished with new brake cylinder.  Only one more to go and the brakes will be perfect.

Next on the list is to remove the Differential cover and clean and inspect the differential gears.
Drop the oil pan and clean out the sludge.  Take a good look a the motor innards.

Chet...