Val (Rusty Fender) sent me a carb part off his spare carb that seems to always be broken to see if I can get it duplicated. I have never met him he lives halfway across the country. He has nothing but my word that he will get his part back. Without it his carb is pretty much worthless.  The people in this community are awesome.

Rant over go back to working on those old Plymouths and show us what you have done.

I think I have you under Val is that correct?

Quote from: Russ T. Fender on April 09, 2024, 08:50:44 AMIf you want me to send you the part to use for a pattern let me know.

If you can do without it for a while and can get it off without ruining it I'll get it copied somehow. I haven't managed to get the broke one off without breaking it further. Today I a working on a air cleaner adaptor. Do you still have my address?

Quote from: Russ T. Fender on April 07, 2024, 01:24:27 PMI think I finally figured out resizing pictures.  This is the part I think you are looking for.  It could be fabricated but if you have access to a 3D printer it would be an easy fix. 

That's it! My nephew has a 3D printer. I don't know how good he is at using it but I can find out. I also have a son that is a tool & die maker and sometimes he can get time to make me things at work. After going to watch the eclipse with friends I cobbled up some lines to see if I could get the vacuum tank pump to work. I hooked up a vacuum line to the intake but left the carb on the car hooked to the electric pump. Then I ran a hose to a gas can and another to a container and started the car. It was sucking gas out of the can and into the container in no time. No leaks! I think its going to work when I get the stuff in to hook it up right.

Here is as good as I can get of the accelerator pump linkage I stuck it back on with some tacky tape. The 2nd picture is of the piece that is broke off and the link that connects to the pump. For reference the rusty colored piece with the slot screw in it is the arm to the throttle linkage. I have ordered some fittings and am going to see if I can get the vacuum tank fuel pump to work. Is tubing 1/8" like goes to oil pressure gauge big enough for the vacuum line?You cannot view this attachment. You cannot view this attachment.

imoore I was told that there were more touring cars in Australia than here. The open car was loosing its popularity here but since the weather is more suited to them they were very popular down there.

It seems like a huge job but its really not that bad. Just remember that the flywheel is really heavy and don't have your hand under it when you slide it off the back of the crank. I'm old and out of shape but I didn't even slow mine down as it headed to the floor. It didn't get me but it could have. I had to use a jack to get it back in. I need to take ours apart again and replace the rear main seal but its going to have to wait until I do a bunch of other projects.

I'll try to get a better picture. I tried the fix the carb shop told me to try on the RT-8 and it seemed to help but didn't cure it. I put the BB-1 back on and made better linkage. I ordered a exhaust pipe adaptor from Amazon that might work for the air cleaner. Is a part made on a 3d printer strong enough?

OK first of all I have a 29 not a 30 but I suspect the wheel is held the same way as our car had a wheel that looks like yours. It is not splined but had a keyway in the wheel hub and a key on the shaft. I haven't removed the later wheel from the shaft because I replaced the whole assembly. I have two more 29 steering assemblies and I pulled the wheel off both of them. The shaft has a taper and the wheel really gets hard to pull off. I put the puller on it and tightened it more & more while tapping on the end of the puller. Be sure to have the nut on so the threads won't be damaged. The first one was hard to get off but finally came. The second one was even harder. I bent my homemade puller and had to beef it up and it was starting to bend again when it finally came off.

 As you have probably figured out there is no way to pull the motor without the bell housing unless the flywheel is removed. If you can't get the wheel off pull the transmission, clutch & brake pedals, clutch fork, clutch and flywheel and you can leave the bellhousing in the car.

The wheel in the above picture is different than my 29 wheel. The puller I made is like the boards you have around the column except its steel plate and has holes for the two jaw puller bolts to bolt to and straps to bolt the two pieces together. Here's a picture of a 29 wheel. I don't know it the center is strong enough to drill & tap holes.

I wasn't sure if the flywheel would come out through the bellhousing. If Tom says it will I'll bet it will. One more thing to remember if you pull the clutch out from the rear you have to take the brake & clutch pedals off and slide the clutch fork out of the way. When you take the brake pedal off and transmission out there is no way to stop the car if you need to move it since the e-brake will be removed too.

I have pulled two of those steering wheels off and they are TIGHT! I made a puller that goes behind the wheel that will get it off without drilling the wheel. If anyone is interested I will post a picture of it.

The shaft will stay attached to the sector (box)and the steering sector will come out the bottom shaft & all. You will have to take the pitman arm off and unbolt the sector from the frame. While I had mine out I disassembled the sector on the bench & cleaned the old grease out and packed it with John Deer corn head grease. If you don't have the instruction manual get one as it tells how to make all the adjustments. Its different than more modern units I've worked on but simple.

Dave I went back over there and I had ran into Dan. He had some transmission parts for sale a while back but sold them before I saw the ad. I sent him a PM about his car.

I have been on that site a few times but not lately. I think that is where I posted something about thinking about buying the car and had a few positive comments and a couple not so positive. One said that for less money he would sell me his car which was a late 30's Mopar of some kind. I wanted to tell him I was buying it because my wife loved it and she hates anything with fat fenders.

I did get some info from Jim Benjaminson from the Plymouth Owners Club that they only had 6 in their roster and they had been compiling info on Plymouths for a long time. I'll go there again and see if I can find Don.

I talked to John at the Carburetor shop today and he said that piece is nearly always broken and when he builds one of those he machines a new one. He said he wouldn't make them to sell. He did give me something to try on the RT-08 so I will do that and see if it fixes it. If it does I'll share the tip here. I may be able to get my son to make the piece for the BB-1 but to get it off so he can copy it I may have to cut it as I worked for a couple of hours on it and never did get it to come off. It has to have it because the idle stop screw hits on the tab on it so without it the idle speed couldn't be set. Pate Swap meet is in a few weeks so maybe I can find something there. Oh yeah my JB weld repair didn't work