Quote from: Articifer Tom on April 02, 2022, 02:28:24 PMMy BOI says 6 quarts (5.66L ) for 196ci 4cly engine . I'll my stick if you need .

I looked on the same website and it does indeed call for 6 quarts on a 30 model. Are they that different? 

This is where I got 4 quarts https://www.ply33.com/Models/U/specs
Ours is the 175.4 cid engine which seems to be a 1 year only engine although I think the later ones were similar.
6 quarts is about what it had in it and it was on the full mark but the dipstick has been altered, maybe because it broke or maybe some other reason who knows.

It also leaks some and I was hoping that was caused by it being over full. Now I don't know what to do. 

I drained the oil and as I suspected no one in our little town had a copper gasket that size but I did find a plastic one that fits. The plug had 4 old copper gaskets on it and was still leaking. When I got them pried of I found they had somewhat rounded the corners off and the plug had a little sharp high spot at every corner. I filed these off and it seems to be holding.

Now for a question. The dipstick was exactly on the full mark when I drained it and it had around 6 quarts in it. I put 4 quarts back in and it barely touches the dipstick. The dipstick looks to have been spliced and welded at some point so I don't trust it. Are the specs shown on ply33.com correct? It shows 4 quarts which would make it about 2" lower than the full mark on the stick.

The nearest Advance Auto is 30 miles but when we were kids this was a dry county and we would go there just to try to find a adult that would buy us some beer We have a Napa O'Rileys and a Parts Plus. They are all small stores but can get most stuff the next day.

I can take it to the parts store and match it up, my concern is if the little stores we have in our little town will have one. We have to order a lot of things that are in stock in big city stores. I just thought that someone might know the size so I could have one and have it on hand.

The drain plug on the 29 is dripping and its plenty tight. I need to change the oil anyway so does anyone know where to get a copper gasket that size or even what size it is. I don't want to drain the oil and have to search for a gasket.

There  probably are better ways to do it and but it did work and the front doors are no longer dragging on the door sills and latch securely. The back doors will have to wait a while. Heck I haven't even figured out how to get the front seat bottom out yet and it has to come out to access the back door hinges.  I think the owner said she had some touch up paint. If so I will paint them and the screws. If she doesn't have any I'll have to get some mixed and hope the parts store can get a close match.

The drivers door fits well everywhere but the bottom rear corner will not go in flush.  I think its bent a little from being slammed with it dragging on the sill all these years and maybe even sitting with the bottom pushed out from hanging on the sill and the top latched. I tried to straighten it with some brute force but chickened out. When 3 out of 4 corners fit I don't think any amount of shimming will improve the fourth.

I made the new pins from grade 8 5/16 X2" bolts with the threads and head but to the right length a a slot for a screwdriver cut in the end. Then I reamed the old pin hole to the right size and threaded it with a 5/16 X 18 tap. Here is the unassembled hinge and one assembled. My hinge arms were badly bent and one was broke so I had to heat and bend them straight and weld the broke one. When I for it all back together I had to do a lot of fitting to get the door lined up since everything was out of wack from being bent and welded.

Before I assembled everything I sanded all the welds pretty smooth and primed it. With the longer pin I had to remove some wood in the door post to make room for the pin to sit. I just used a rotary file in a die grinder.

The drinkers side hinge was in a lot better shape and was just worn out so fitting the door back was pretty easy. I did have to shim one hinge on each door out a little to get the back of the door level.

Here is the hinge with the bushing installed and where to sand the bradded end of the pin off so it can be knocked out. A couple of mine had to have a 3/16 hole drilled in them to get them to come out. They are stepped and only come out from the shown end.

Here is how I fixed the hinges. The drivers side was bent and worn more than the drinkers side and a lot harder to get right. These are the bushing I used. I got them from McMaster Carr. They aren't expensive

suddenly pictures show up! I didn't do anything different so I'll try to do it in the thread.

They are around 490 KB which is about what some of the other pictures here show to be. I tried to make them smaller and can't even find that option on Windows 10.

But for the life of me I can't get them to post. When I click the attachment button it asks me for the file. I put the file in the box and nothing shows up. It has worked for me in the past but now I can't get it to work. Any ideas as to what I am doing wrong?

I wouldn't have named them strap hinges either but that's what I have heard them called. Probably because they are basically a flat steel strap formed into a hinge. They would never hold up on a car with heavy doors but work fine and are dirt simple for these light little doors.

I may take you up on it when you go. Until then I will use what I can find and flat washers for the rest if they are about the same thickness. There is a antique car swap meet about 90 miles from me next weekend. I'm going to try to make it and see what I find.