I may take you up on it when you go. Until then I will use what I can find and flat washers for the rest if they are about the same thickness. There is a antique car swap meet about 90 miles from me next weekend. I'm going to try to make it and see what I find.

Racertb are we talking about the same kind of straps? The hinges like the op ask about are called strap hinges but there really aren't any straps other than the hinges.

See post # 4 I found the discs at Then & Now Automotive. I feel like they are priced very reasonably. Now the buckle washers are another thing entirely. I haven't found any. I hope the front has them I haven't taken it apart yet. The rear had 3. How many should I have 18?

I'll take some and get them on here when I get the pins made. My oldest is a tool & die maker and does a little machining for me but he has to work it in so sometimes it takes a few days.

I decided to see if my plan to rebuild the hinges would work. The right front  door also had a problem with the latch so I started with it. To get the hinges off you will have to remove the kick panel and door panel. There are  2 1/4 X 20 square nuts inside on each one. There are also two wood screws.
The pin on the door side is stepped. The part that is staked to the strap is 1/4" and the hinge part is 5/16" so it will only come out one way. I sanded the staked portion off with a sanding disc and with a lot of wiggling and a little tapping with a punch it came out. I am having new pins made. They will be a little longer than factory and I can fit them as needed. I'll probably either Locktite them in or tack them where they were bradded.

The straps that make up the female part of the hinge fell apart when I removed them. They had had a 1/4" rivet holding them together. I cleaned up the surfaces I wanted to weld and bolted them together with the holes aligned. Then welded them together and added some material around the hinge hole.  I then got the part level on my drill press and drilled/reamed the hole to .437 (7/16). I tapped a oilite bushing in the hole that's .437 od .312 id 1/2" long with a 1/16" flange. I bought 10 of them for about $20 including shipping from McMaster Carr. These will hold the door a little higher than original but they all seem low so maybe it will help. The flange could be filed down a little if necessary.

With the bushings and pins being longer than original I am pretty sure to put the door back on I will have to assemble the hinges and then install it all together.

I hope this helps someone

I think it would be pretty easy and not too expensive to use a front driveshaft design from a 80's GM 4wd. Everything but a couple of 6" plates to bolt the flanges to would be available  at any driveshaft shop.  Like you I want to keep things as original as I can but that would be a option.

The original material may not even be available anymore. As long as they take the vibration out and hold up to being drove occasionally I'll be happy. I got it put back together today with the discs that were in it a lot of washers and self locking nuts. It's a lot better but that's only a temporary fix.

From researching the forum I have pretty much figured out there are 5 discs like has been said. They should be 6" overall 5/16" thick on a 4.625" bolt circle center hole 2 1/4" I put this in here in case someone needs to know. 

Now for the good part. I called Then and Now as was suggested. First good thing they answer their phone. Second they have the dies (he said he made them 40 years ago) and can make the discs. Third thing is they can ship them out in a few days. Fourth is they are $29.99 apiece!

Discs are ordered

We still don't own the 29 Touring but I am fixing some things on it. The discs are in really bad shape so I am hunting for some. I have found 2 companies that have them or claim to. This one is really expensive and seem to be the wrong thickness although he says they fit. https://www.colletizer.com/store/p72/Universal_Joint_Flex_Disc_and_New_Washers_L373T.html#/

This one has some that are 1/4" thick and are a bit more affordable but thinner than the 5/16 that I have seen here as original equipment. https://www.franklincar.org/forsale/service.html

Does anyone have any other sources?

I used to have a automotive machine shop and never saw a oilite bushing used in a engine for valve guides. The material in bronze valve guides seemed to be better than any bushing. They are usually used in electric motors, generators, conveyor belt shaft bushings etc. The advantage over a regular bushing is that once installed and oiled they are pretty much maintenance free. I think pilot bushings for a clutch are oilite and they never get any lube after they are installed. I thought that might be a advantage in doors since they are hard to lube without making a mess. If anyone knows if a regular bushing would be better please speak up. The size of these would be a little smaller than the bushings used in G.M. door hinges from the 50's until at least the 80's but our doors weigh probably 1/3 of what a G body door does so I think they would last a long time.

Great pictures!

That looks very similar to the 29 Touring we are planning to buy and that I have been working on a little. All the hinges on it are pretty worn so I took one apart to see how to best fix it. My plan is to drill the holes up to 7/16 and install some bushings I found online. They have a 5/16 id and a very thin flange on top which I hope wouldn't cause a problem.

https://www.bronzebushings.com/amfinder/?find=1--oil-impregnated-sae-841-sintered-bronze-inch-flanged-5-16-7-16-3-8-9-16-1-16-ff-411-1-169376

The pins seem to be made into the door side of the hinge. I plan to drill them out and make new ones from whatever I find that will work. These I will probably tack on the top side with my mig welder.

If yours is broke where the arrow is pointing you will either have to find another piece or weld yours.

Well we committed to buy the 29 today. The title is in her late husbands name and all that is at her lawyers. I told her when its all took care of we will buy it. She has had a lot to deal with and I'm not in a hurry so I don't know when that will be. Right now its just a verbal agreement but I don't expect anything to change.

What a way to spend Christmas eve. BTW my little sister lives in Birmingham. We were there back in the summer. I really like that part of the country.

The current owner didn't restore the car, as far as I can figure out the last several owners didn't. It was in a museum for a while. I actually talked to a lady who has worked there for over 30 years. She said the car was the same color then and they didn't do anything to it. The museum downsized in 2007 and the car was sold around that time. The current owner bought it in 2013. I haven't been able to piece any more of its history together other than at one time it was in Mystic Connecticut. It has the expected scratches and chips from a earlier paint job. The motor seems to be the best part of the drivetrain, the brakes feel as good as drum brakes ever do so that other than the rear main leaking and the starter ring those things seem good to go.

They paid quite a bit more for it than she is asking me but that doesn't necessarily reflect current trends and what is selling.  I am not a flipper and rarely sell anything so making money on it isn't a goal. I would like to not be in so deep that I would loose a lot if I did have to sell it.

Thanks for the insights. As things progress I'll share it.