Quote from: Touring29 on April 05, 2024, 01:23:37 PMOK first of all I have a 29 not a 30 but I suspect the wheel is held the same way as our car had a wheel that looks like yours. It is not splined but had a keyway in the wheel hub and a key on the shaft. I haven't removed the later wheel from the shaft because I replaced the whole assembly. I have two more 29 steering assemblies and I pulled the wheel off both of them. The shaft has a taper and the wheel really gets hard to pull off. I put the puller on it and tightened it more & more while tapping on the end of the puller. Be sure to have the nut on so the threads won't be damaged. The first one was hard to get off but finally came. The second one was even harder. I bent my homemade puller and had to beef it up and it was starting to bend again when it finally came off.

 As you have probably figured out there is no way to pull the motor without the bell housing unless the flywheel is removed. If you can't get the wheel off pull the transmission, clutch & brake pedals, clutch fork, clutch and flywheel and you can leave the bellhousing in the car.

Thank you!  This is very helpful.  I can't get the wheel off with the tools I have now.  I will try removing the trans, clutch/brake pedals, fork, clutch and flywheel, as most of that would have to come out anyway if I decided to remove the whole works.

there are a few model Q driving around in Australia. Which I own 1 of them. but have also seen couple of model Us.
Believed in Australia across all makers. A Tourer as we call them, was the popular body choice.

I'll try to get a better picture. I tried the fix the carb shop told me to try on the RT-8 and it seemed to help but didn't cure it. I put the BB-1 back on and made better linkage. I ordered a exhaust pipe adaptor from Amazon that might work for the air cleaner. Is a part made on a 3d printer strong enough?

Being computer challenged I just now realized that I can tap on your photo and enlarge it so I can see it clearly.  I have that part on one of my carburetors and managed to get it off so I can send it to you for duplication if you want.  The only way the part comes off is if you remove the butterfly and take the throttle shaft out.  The piece will not go over the knurled end. The shaft is drilled to accept the screw holding that piece to the shaft so once the screw is completely removed the piece slides off easily.  I have pictures but can't resize them to post here.  I can send them via a private email if you want.

Looking at the BB-1 carburetors I have that piece seem to come in a couple of different styles.  If you can get me a closer shot of yours and it matches one of mine I will try to get it off of one of my carburetors and send it to you to copy.  If someone had access to a 3D printer I bet it would be easy to duplicate.

OK first of all I have a 29 not a 30 but I suspect the wheel is held the same way as our car had a wheel that looks like yours. It is not splined but had a keyway in the wheel hub and a key on the shaft. I haven't removed the later wheel from the shaft because I replaced the whole assembly. I have two more 29 steering assemblies and I pulled the wheel off both of them. The shaft has a taper and the wheel really gets hard to pull off. I put the puller on it and tightened it more & more while tapping on the end of the puller. Be sure to have the nut on so the threads won't be damaged. The first one was hard to get off but finally came. The second one was even harder. I bent my homemade puller and had to beef it up and it was starting to bend again when it finally came off.

 As you have probably figured out there is no way to pull the motor without the bell housing unless the flywheel is removed. If you can't get the wheel off pull the transmission, clutch & brake pedals, clutch fork, clutch and flywheel and you can leave the bellhousing in the car.

All,
  Is there a trick to getting the steering wheel off?  I made a setup just like Tom's where I drilled two holes in the steering wheel and I'm trying to use a steering wheel puller to pull it off.  I tried removing it with a large crescent wrench on the puller, but this will just stop where I can't pull on it anymore.  Some questions for the group:

1) is the 1930 30U steering wheel on a spline, or is there something else in there?

2) Is removal just a matter of brute force and torque?  Since the steering wheel must be held in place while using the steering wheel puller, I'm afraid of breaking the steering wheel.  I can simply add a pipe extension onto the wrench to get more torque, but what will I end up breaking if this thing doesn't come loose?

3) Tom, how much force and what kind or wrench/tool did you use to twist the nut on the steering wheel puller?

Thanks,
-Chris

Quote from: Articifer Tom on April 04, 2024, 09:54:35 PMSorry , to many meds I guess  . The trans was slid off the bell housing so spline shaft thur clutch can be removed. However to remove trans, drive shaft must come off one end . Hence off-ed (removed) the universal joint.

Thanks Tom. This makes sense now. Looks like I have a lot of work to do!

Regards,
Chris

Quote from: Articifer Tom on April 03, 2024, 09:52:44 PMJay Astheimer 610-462-3631 eastern Pa.

Guess he tried him without luck (?)
Found a thread on the AACA and it sounded like he was having someone cast new ones? Think his user name is pre1939chrysler ?

Sorry , to many meds I guess  . The trans was slid off the bell housing so spline shaft thur clutch can be removed. However to remove trans, drive shaft must come off one end . Hence off-ed (removed) the universal joint.