With the weather improving, down to less then 90 + degrees, managed to get a
few items taken care of on my 29 Ply. Droped the rear-end and did a
complete cleanup and paint. If you need a GREAT cleaner for such
projects PURPLE POWER is great and available at your auto parts
or hardware. Then made new copper brake lines, wire brushed all the
brass fittings and reinstalled. As the brake lines run along the front
of the housing, at some time something must have flew up and hit one of
the old ones had been flatted it. One side had a RUSTY steel spring
around the length of it for protection but the side that was flattened
did not. I am not sure if the spring was a factory item or not but I
like it and decided to replace the new brake lines with new springs
installed. The springs I used were screen door springs bought at the
hardware store and fit perfect. Had to try three stores to find a brand
of springs that fit the lines. Some springs are smaller and larger
inside diameter. Finally came up with STANLEY brand that were
just right. If you decide to replace you lines with springs installed
don't forget to leave the spring a little short on one end to get the
flaring tool on the tubing. See before and after photos below HAPPY MOTORING !!!! -
Rich
Da** your good. That looks great.
You are correct the originials had a coil spring around them for just the reason you mentioned. Protection from flying objects.
You encourage us all. I think I will do the same for mine.
What Copper tube did you use. I understand that there is one that will take the pressures, but that regular tube is questionable.
Again, it looks great.
Gary
Great Job, !!! Looks Great.
Chet...
The copper tube came from the hardware store, nothing special. I think you may be refering to tubing with a seam. Hold out for seamless tubing and it should be fine.
Hi Rich
You have motivated me!!! Did you powder coat the diff housing and brake drums?? The finish looks great.
I'm just not sure if i want pull the diff out and whats involved but i have to rebuild the brakes.
Cheers
Glenn
Removing and painting the differential is not a hard task. Be sure to jack the rear tires just off the ground, set the rear of the car frame on jack stands in front of the rear end, disconnect the main brake line, remove the bolts from the drive shaft universal discs, pull front spring bolt, remove the rear spring perch bolts and roll the differential out to the rear. Turn the rear end at approx. 30 deg to get one tire past the bottom of the fender then swing it the opposite way to clear the other fender and roll it out.
The rear end was cleaned, primed and sprayed with gloss black enamel. If you go with powder coat I have read not to use it on the rims where the tires set because they have trouble with tires slipping and on tubeless tires not sealing. Happy Motoring!!!! - Rich
Well just had a big day diff housing out degreased and looking prety good, so i thought i would remove the the wheels and check the brakes one wheel came off no problems the other wheel won't budge :( any secrets??? i think i need to some how put a puller on it????
any info on axle seals would be good to. Glenn :)
You need a puller
Use a model TT (one ton model t truck) puller, look at any model t parts/supplier and they usually have one. A model T one will not work, the TT was a larger rear axle and used a bigger puller. They run about 100 bucks and get used very very rarely (10 minutes) but it is the only way to get the rear drums off.
then n now auto has seals for each side of the axle and a pinion seal.
rusty
Pinion seal and inner and outer axil seals are on there way, Time to remove the diff and the axils are there any retaining clips or pins that need to be removed first? or do the axils just pull out any info would good. Then of to the powder coater.
Is there a shop manuel or any info for 28/29 ply would be really handy
35c tomorrow going to be a long hot summer
Cheers
Glenn
Is your plan to take the entire rear end apart? That is braver than I am. I just cleaned and painted. I knew that I would take it apart and something would be badly worn or get damaged and then I would be looking forever for parts. I do agree, a nice clean powder coated part is very nice to have. Just wash it off once it gets dirty.
I just replaced the outer rear axle seal, there (I think) a inner seal also. I have a grease fitting for the outer rear bearing, so I guess there is a seal to keep grease and gear oil apart. If you get that out, please post a photo.
good luck
rusty
we got snow here yestereday, wish mine have a heater.
Hey you might be right Rusty,
Just pulled out the right side axel it had been snapped and rewelded a bit dodgy and still covered in weld spatter,you think they would have cleaned that off before refitting the axel, fingers crossed it hasn"t done any damage to the diff bearings.
Still carn"t budge the left rear hub need to get that off so i can drop the diff out.
I'll post a couple of pics when its out.
Glenn
Oh 38c today and forcast for 40 for Friday thats just over 100 in your language, wish i had air conditioning!!!
To remove the inner seal,you first must remove the inner bearing race.
Then you can remove the inner grease seal.
The attached shows the makeshift tools I used to pull the inner seal.
Do you have the replacement seals yet? What is the replacement seal number, where did you get them and how much. Thanks - Rich
Photos are worth a thousands words. Thanks for sharing. How bad is the bearings worn? Can they be reused?
rusty
Hi i just replaced both inner and outer seals and the pinnion seal on the diff got them from Then and Now Automotive about $180 includding post to Aussie and bought the bearing hear timkin $40 each, be careful not to damage the shims when removing the inner bearing shell i used a 3 leg puller and had no problems oh and i used a speedy sleeve on the axel for the inner oil seal had a bit of wear on the axel good idea to use them with new style seals Glenn