My 30U has no rubber, just a metal button that is well worn.

They made one for me too and I was very pleased.  I made one missing helper spring up myself. 

I run a Carter BB-1 carburetor on mt 30-U and all my other non Ford old cars.  It is a good universal carburetor easily adjusted to adopt to existing linkage and parts are available for them.  The earlier ones are brass and are more desirable but the later pot metal ones are OK too.

The gas line on my 30-U is original and is steel.  It runs to the vacuum tank on the firewall unlike your set up with a fuel pump but using copper tubing for a fuel line may not be the best choice in any event as it can work harden from vibration and crack over time.

Apple Hydraulics in Calverton New York.  They have a web site but I don't know how add it to this reply.  I actually dropped my parts off there and picked them up.  Turn around time was less than a week.

I recently had my wheel cylinders and master cylinder sleeved and it was $50 for each wheel cylinder and $95 for the master,  not including shipping and sales tax.  They were completely rebuilt and ready to install.  They were sleeved with brass, not stainless.  Everything was replaced except for the pistons. 

For what it's worth, my 30-U fenders are mounted with the slotted screws you show in your picture and the nuts are square.  No carriage bolts.

My 30-U thermosyphon cooling system never overheats and in fact I have to put a bit of cardboard over the radiator in cooler weather just to get up to 160 degrees.  I drilled a hole in a junk radiator cap and run a Junior size Motometer.  Even in summer stop and go traffic the mercury rarely gets into the "normal" operating temperature range. I run Motometers on all my early cars, they are accurate, relatively inexpensive and do not require any modification to the car.  I think they look nice too!

I have modern bleeders that I got when my wheel cylinders were sleeved.  I am using the original ones so you can have them for the postage if you want them.

Great.  That is standard.

Is that a double flare or straight flare?  My lines were not a problem either so I am planning to reuse them.  Modern lines are all steel and are now bubble flared.  The brake lines on my 2000 Suburban rusted out and had to be replaced in less than 16 years so I guess Chrysler's  engineers knew what they were doing since the ones in my Plymouth have lasted more than 5 times longer and are still going strong.

Thanks.  I guess copper lines eliminate the rust issue common to brake lines but I am surprised copper is strong enough to take the pressure. Oddly, the gas line is steel.  I would  have guessed that to be reversed.

Couldn't see spending so much for a tool I will probably only use once so I made my own from some scrap left over from other projects.  Worked great but now I have more questions.  The brake lines on my car are copper and I am wondering if that is correct.  I never encountered brake lines that were other than steel so I am assuming that someone made a switch before I got the car in 1962.  The car had been in continuous service when I got it from the original owner and I drove it that way daily for another 10 years without issue.  The copper lines are in good shape but if they were originally steel I want to change them out.  They also do not appear to  be double flared which is another reason I am suspicious that they are not correct.
Does anyone have a definitive answer?

Thanks for the help.  I will try to track down the tool.

I know that there was a special tool used to adjust the brakes on the 30-U when relining the shoes but if you don't have that tool how do you adjust the brakes using the anchor pins and adjusting cams so that you have even surface contact?