You can use a knock off instead of a puller as the bearings are back to back but I have a thing about beating on an axle with a sledge hammer.  I have a puller that I got years ago at a garage sale and you're welcome to borrow it if you can't find one but it's heavy and I think the postage back and forth would be better spent buying a puller.  With the right puller I have never had a problem puling a drum so I don't  think you need to spend a ton of money to get one.  I tighten em up and if the don't pop off I hit them with the torch!

Looks like you should be able to salvage some waffle washers from that rear end!

Nice find.  Sadly too many cars have succumbed to the hot rod crowd but it does provide us with parts to keep our cars running.

I have been looking for the side mount brackets and wing nuts for years.  If you want to sell them please let me know. If you don't want to sell them I'd like to borrow them and have some cast

Got it! Did you ever get my emails?  If so, please send me a reply so I can let you know about the package. My technology capabilities are of the same era as my Plymouth!

I sent you an email looking for your address.  Don't know if you got it.

Yes I did.  Hope to get to the post office tomorrow to figure out the shipping.  Here is a picture of what I have. I also found a reflector but it needs to be resilvered.

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At one time I had a plain generic cap with a motor meter for my Plymouth and I was able to open the hood without issue. Unfortunately, the last time I saw it was in 1972 and after moving the car three times in various states of disassembly it has disappeared.  I looked at Hershey this past October with no success so it's not like they're easy to find.  It's the diameter of the part with the tabs that is the problem because the neck of the radiator is wider than most.  I actually had to make that part up for the NOS cap I found because the cap and the inside parts were sold separately.

Finally got to my storage space in Florida and was able to locate one headlamp bucket.  If you want it I can send it to you for the postage.  It's just the bucket but I may be able to find the reflector somewhere too. I didn't have my phone with me so I couldn't take a picture but I can do that if you want to see what I have.

Sounds like it would work.  I'll keep my eyes open for one.

This is the original cap that I believe is correct for the early 30-U.  The piece with the tabs needs to be replaced and I have yet to find a replacement as the opening on the neck of the radiator is wider than most.  To mount a motor meter I would have to mill a section of the ridge off to get a flat surface and then drill through the section on the underside of the cap that keeps the tabs properly oriented.  The other  shiny cap is what I believe to be correct for the later 30-U and that is the one I am using on the car now.  I made up an insert for it which works but is does not sit as well as I would like.  This cap would also need to be milled for a motor meter but since it is NOS I would hate to cobble it up.
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I would also like to put a motor meter  on my '30 Plymouth as I have one on all my other cars and find that they are very helpful in keeping track of engine operating temperature.  The issue that I see is that on my other cars the radiator caps thread into the radiator.  With the  Plymouth the cap has the tabs that engage the radiator so when you drill through the cap to mount the meter you are drilling through the portion of the cap that hold the tabs in alignment.  First of all I wouldn't want to destroy an original cap and second of all I don't know how you would be able to keep the tabs in proper alignment.  I just machined a new tab plate for my radiator cap as they had a tendency to rust away so the tabs no longer held and that was a job in and of itself. Does anyone know of a generic cap that can be used on the Plymouth radiator  and modified for a motor meter? 

Would it be possible to asses users a bit to keep this going?  I have no idea what the costs are being computer challenged at best but it would be a shame to see it stop.  Perhaps if we all used it more frequently it would encourage sponsors to support it.  I too suffer from the retirement syndrome in that the only thing that doesn't go up is my pension but I would be amenable to a reasonable contribution if that is what it would take to keep it going.

Brass stress fractures from vibration, it's not the heat.  I had 5 carburetors and only one had a good float bowl.  I swapped them all for a rebuilt unit.  I have other cars that have brass float bowls and I have successfully repaired them with silver solder.  After buffing it out silver solder looks like brass so the repairs are almost unnoticeable.  If the bowl is out of round you can anneal the brass and reshape it over a wood jig. Brass work hardens so if it is really out of shape you may need to anneal it a few times as you work it back into shape.

That might work but the crack might have to be opened up for the JB Weld to adhere.  I have used it for that purpose with good results.  That said I have been running an intake manifold that appears to have a crack for years without any issues so you might want to leave well enough alone if the car is running well.  The crack has not grown any over the years.