Hopefully this works.

Hi chet

Suggestion for when you get the engine back. Remove the oil pump, take the cover off and fill with engine oil. while pump is off and sump removed. using a oil can, pump oil into the main feed pipe. Untill you see oil working its way past the bearings. on all journals.

ian

Hi all

Been a long time since I have posted.
The tourer has been undergoing a slight birthday. Stripped back to chassis painted and built back up.
I have just completed the body and doors. 2 tone cream and brown, like it was. While I had the dash out I was able to fill all un wanted holes. now it looks so much cleaner. Better still, I went to a local swap meet and I was able to pick up a reconditioned head light switch. Could not believe it. The car has been missing this for ages.
Hoping to have the car back on the road by end of February. To enjoy whats left of our summer (AUS). Then come winter the task of engine rebuild will commence.

Still got a few problems I need to fix before even road worthy. Steering drag link has worn very thin. So is going to need rebuilding. not sure how to tackle that yet.
Tailshaft. one fitted at the moment is not the greatest. looks like a back yard farm yard job.

Does anyone know of anyone who sells repo bonnet latches and rubbers for taillight brackets.

Ill post some pics, but first need to upload to computer.


Regards Ian   

When I brought my gasket kit from swansons gaskets. I recieved a kit that had missing gaskets that suited my engjne (28 Q). So after paying in my view top dollar for very little gaskets, I emailed swansons and he gave me the missing gaskets that were listed under a 29u kit.
Now I believe the rear main is just a rope seal. Regarding rear bearing housing (bell housing to block) I was just going to make my own out of. 4mm paper.
Ian

Alright
Thanks for your help

Ian

thanks for that info Jim.
I have no issues in using copper lines. I just don't want to do it for a 2nd time if I decided to go full registration.
From what I understand the code is if it originally had copper then it Is safe to use. Now one of the comments mentioned copper brake tube.
Standard copper tubing is that just what you would get from Reece, Tradelink, etc


So reason for annealing on the corners, is this just to reduce the chance of cracking?
If I have to add more securing location, I will That's the easy bit. Article say 300mm apart. 

Ian

Hi all.

Just wondering if any one has used a double flare with success.
Reason I am asking I am about to replace all lines and I believe it is illegal to use single flare on brake lines here in aus.
The originals were single flare.

Ian

Reason for these locating ring is the original gaskets were copper/asbestos gasket rings. Which fitted over the locating rings and held them in place when manifold was secured.
If you were to picture the engine porting as EIEEIE. The 2 ports(EI and IE) on each side had these gaskets which the centre exhaust pair had a conventional gasket.
The exhaust gasket you buy now whether in kit or singular form may not seal properly. Well on mine they didnt. I tried 3 gaskets before further investigation was in place.
You will find that the one piece gasket would not evenly clamp the manifolds to either block or exhaust manifold. Eventually blowing the gasket.

I had to machine my exhaust and intake manifolds to accommodate the One piece gasket.

I first set up the inlet manifold in a mill using the carby flange face as my holder. i faced the manifold until it was true and square.
I then machined the surface that seals the exhaust and intake together.  I then helicoiled the 2 holes in the centre on exhaust manifold so i could clamp the 2 manifold together with a gasket between.
Using the carby flange again i then faced the entire assembly true and flat. 

After doing this i can run the one piece gasket and have not blown since.

Hope this all makes sense and is of some use

Ian

The chassis is now all painted. Axles are now under making it a rolling cab again. Has anyone replaced or modified there drag link. when disassembled i found that mine had worn very thin and starting to crack at joint. Are there repair patches or new drag links out there that anyone knows of.
I have also completely disassembled the wooden floor. thankfully it came apart very easy with no broken pieces. ready to re produce.
Will post an updated pic soon

Ian

There is one of ebay atm. Nice price tag on it aswell
like to add mine surround has no piece that goes over crank hole. Just got a straight bottom. Could this have been an after market piece. But it works for me


Ian

wow. looks great. nice colour. is that taken from the original colour code. or did you choose it your self.

Ian

great project in deed. unfortunately i was hoping to never have the car this far apart. but when maintenance calls you just gotta do it.
the chassis is all top coated now. hopefully this coming weekend i can attach the axles. making it a rolling chassis again. haven't found any major surprises which is good. so far seems to be all straight forward.

ian

Hey everyone. Hope all is well.
Just thought id share what has happened/happening to my tourer. So it all started with getting some rust repaired in the front fenders. which then led to replacing both valance panels. Then discovering more severe rust in the cowl lower sections to then finding some wet rot in the timber main rails.
The big decision was made to completely strip the car back to the chassis and begin a 'ground up rest'. Big task but am lucky I had 3 years of successful enjoyment of the car.
So at the moment the chassis has been wire brushed, sandblasted and primed. Ready for top coat.
The timber frame will be stripped and pieces that are damaged will be re produced (in theory). The rust in cowl will be cut out and new rust repair panels welded in.
I am not going for show room finish but more a good clean drivers car. A car set out for weekend adventures not just on bitumen.

Now the questions I have are:
Does anyone know what the S and I in circles mean on the chassis. They are stamped in both rails and cross beams.
I also have this number 4274 stamped on both rails at rear near fuel tank. Any ideas as to what these might mean.

Ian M

My holden bodies tourer is mounted on a series of rubber blocks. At each mount bolt.

Oh ok. That makes sense then. Nice colour by the way.