I was thinking the same thing.

Old topic but here's a new picture.

That carb is an aftermarket Tillotson.  I think they're a universal replacement.  I have a suspected good carter updraft I will try on it at some point.

It seems to dump more raw fuel with the 4 psi but it may be my imagination.  I also raised the float level a bit and stopped pumping the gas with the engine static.  I learned that updraft carbs do not like to be started with gas, they prefer to be choked to life.

ski

I could only get the regulator that came with the car down to 4 psi.  I used a small round regulator down stream from that regulator that gets the pressure down to 1.5 psi. I picked it up at a yard sale.  It looks like something that came from a mail order catalog and I've seen them around before. The carb pisses out fuel minimally with this setup. I ordered a Holley regulator from Jeg's that adjusts from 1-4 psi but I sent it back cause it would not adjust.  I'll let you know if the replacement is any better.

Here's a picture of the setup I have right now.

ski

The rubber washer in question is on the left.

.....okay, like I was saying six years ago, I'm working on my brakes.  After a short break I now have two good front brakes with the rears capped off.  I was lacking a puller to get the rear hubs off but I got one off with a knocker type puller. The other side has funky threads and the knocker won't easily screw on to it.  It's new so the threads are sharp and want to cut their owned path. I have another knocker on the way that is old and worn.  I'm hoping it screws on easily like the retaining nuts do.  The knocker I used is 3/4 - 16 and I'm pretty sure it's correct. In the last few weeks I've also done the following:

got engine running fairly well
removed and cleaned oil pan & strainer
drained and filled transmission
drained & filled rear end
replaced repaired floor structure and parts of cab structure
replaced drive shaft discs
replaced fuel pump and regulators
rebuilt tillotson carb and carter DR-0

I took lots of pictures as I find it easier when I start putting things back together.  It was good to have for the drive shaft discs. I plan to post some with a description of what I did when I get the time but I hate typing. My immediate concern is brake pistons for the rear slave cylinders.  I need at least 2 and figure the other side will be bad as well. I also have a question on the master cylinder. Where does the rubber washer that fits into the bore of the master cylinder go?  Is it a cushion for the piston stop?   I installed it in that spot but took it out after thinking about it too long. I thought I had this worked out but I don't. There was one installed on the car when I got it because I had the old one in the bag with all the other old MC parts.  The brakes seem to work without it but that's just sitting in the garage.  I guess I should have been taking pictures six years ago when I took it apart.

ski

I'd like to see a photo Ted.

ski

Was wondering how it got its name.................

Quote
fishpaper An insulating paper, often fiber- or oilcloth-like, used in the construction of transformers and coils. [Historical Note: Alvin G. Sydor writes: "In 1729 Stephen Gray made the discovery of the conducting and non-conducting power of different substances. Gray found that by using woven silk served as an excellent insulator. Some years later it was found that the paper industry could provide what was equivalent to woven silk. Later it was discovered that if the paper was saturated with fish oil its ability as an insulator was much improved particularly when used in harsh environments and high voltages."]

I had a chance to buy 4 very nice wire wheels with hubcaps and new tires for 150 bucks a few years ago that were taken off a restored 1929 U.  I hesitated because I didn't know if they would be a direct replacement for my wood wheels or if I would need other parts from the donor car.........he who hesitates is lost. I also didn't know at the time how hard it would be to find another set. Does anyone know if a different brake backing plate, drum, spindle or any other parts are required when switching to wire wheels?

Thanks Chet, I was thinking along the same lines.  I doubt I'll ever get above 35 MPH at least for a while since tires etc are kind of marginal.  So far only the one looks "bad".  I would like to get another better drum at some point so I can make a brake adjusting drum out of the ate up one.

ski

I've got my master cylinder and front slave cylinders sorted out thanks to the tips I've got from Chet and the rest of you guys.  I ordered new brake lines the other day.  After trying to remove the rears and reading old posts here I am going to try to get a puller together after the long weekend.  When I removed the driver's side drum I noticed it was pretty grooved and worn.  Does anyone have specs on diamater and max. turning.  Are there replacements available?  I know an old school brake rebuilder that I'd bet can resurface them but I won't make it over there until Mon.  Anyone have any experience in this department? 

ski

Chet, I just realized my picture is different than yours because my book is a 28.  I did not try to take the end off, what I thought to be a rubber gasket inside there was not.  Underneath the inlet fitting I have a hole about 3/16 that is wide open and an small orafice that I stuck a piece of .030 copper wire into.  The wire stops and I didn't force it.  Should this little hole be open into the cylinder area also?  I cannot see any light through it either.  My diagram although slightly different has a "compensating relief port" in that area. The bigger one is labled "secondary fluid port".

ski

Okay I see where the bigger rubber washer goes.  Has anyone successfully unscrewed the master cylinder head and got it back on without wrecking it?

Correction.  The last piece to come out was a rubber washer.  From the marks on it I think the valve goes with the dome facing the spring.  The only piece in my kit I can't identify now is the larger rubber washer that appears to go in the pushrod end of the M/C?

ski