Yes, I believe a Carter came on the car originally.  I have one that I picked up but have not checked it for fit yet or even opened it up to see if it's a possible candidate to run.  The Tillotson that came with it may be a generic replacement.  The prior owner said he bought it specifically for the car and the choke and throttle all line up like it was made for it.  He didn't have the old carb.

ski

Does anyone know where to get copies of a shop manual for a 29 Plymouth U ?

ski

Chet,  Thanks for the fan belts. 

ski

Yes I did get it sorted out.  I hooked it up positive ground and it started and ran fine.  The ammeter was working properly.  I think the prior owner had hooked it up Negative ground when he bought a new battery to try and get it running but he never did so I'm hoping the generator is okay.

Chet, I am planning on re-installing the vacume unit.  The only reason I removed was because the prior owner had already plumbed in the electric pump so I suspect there had been a problem with it. I'm also going to try and find an original carb at some point.  I was originally looking for an old plymouth or dodge to put an early hemi in but when I found this one it was too complete not to bring back to original.  It will be just as fun.

ski

I've had the car since August but have not had a lot of time to work on it so I'm doing a few hours here and there.  The car was last running about ten years ago and had somewhat of a restoration 35 years ago.  I put it in gear in both FWD and REV with the parking brake on and it wanted to go but I think I have a leaking master cylinder so I'll wait for brakes before I venture out on the street.  I also think I have to lower the fuel pressure.  I've heard 2 PSI is all it needs and I have about 5 after the regulator.  The carb is getting too much gas and it's blowing out the air horn.   I borrowed a buddies fuel injector test kit and it will allow me to adjust the regulator with the car running.  I also have to adjust one or two of the valves.  I ran it again today and I do have some ticking.  I plan on driving it to my retirement in the spring but I have a lot to do before then.

ski

Well after working on the car sporadically Finally started the engine the other day. I had to put a new distributor cap on and sort out a few wires.  I moved the electric fuel pump from the canted floor board to the rear of the car near the fuel pickup using existing holes. I removed the non-functioning vacuum fuel pump and made a plate to mount the regulator to the existing mount location so I didn't have to make any new holes.  It fired up and sounded like it was going to come apart for a few seconds but then settled in and ran smooth.  I ran it for about 15 minutes. It had 35-40 PSI oil pressure.  I need to make some carb adjustments or maybe get a kit for it. I took it apart and cleaned out all the crud and water that was in it but that was it.  It's a Tillotson JR1A.  Anyone have any info on it?  I also picked up a new fan belt since the one on there looked like it was going to fly off at any time.  Here's a few pics.

ski

Nice job. Looks much better.

Keep us posted Chet.  I have the one that came in my car but it was disconnected and replaced with an electric pump.  I'd like to get it working again eventually.

ski

Does anyone know of an outfit that sells wood kits to replace the structural wood framing in a 29U coupe? The floor & trunk panels look easy and I was going to use marine plywood.  The curved pieces like under the trunk lid and behind the seam at the roof line may be a little tricky.  I was also wondering about the possibility of using metal.

Thanks Chet, I went with Hagerty and they knew that some cars were titled under the engine number and some with the body number.  Very easy to work with.  Best part was for my 29U and a 65 Dart it was a whopping total of $77. per year.

My 29 plymouth coupe is titled and registered under it's engine number.  I believe this to be incorrect but that's how it was and when I transfered title the DMV told me I could get it changed but it would be a bunch of paperwork so at the time I declined until I could do more research.  I have paperwork going back over 30 years with the engine number on titles and registrations.   The body number that is attached to the wood floor is 322-23704.  The engine number is U108771.  Are either of these the correct number to ID the car or should I look on the frame somewhere like on my old Dodge truck to find the correct VIN?  The main reason it's a concern is that none of the insurance companys I've talked to can identify the type car from those numbers and I'd like to insure it before my first test drive.

Thanks,
Sean

Thre tank is good inside.  It had recently been cleaned and sealed.  I cleaned out the inside good and rinsed with gas.  The outside was coated with a rubberized paint but poor prep work led to a lot of rust bubble through.  I took them all down to bare metal and painted with rustoleum.  I may spray undercoating over this. 

I removed the coil to have a look and to replace the wire going to the amp meter.  The coil has no pos or neg markings.  The terminal on the R/H or passenger side of the coil as it's mounted in the car goes to the distributor.  Can anyone confirm that this is the proper coil wiring for a positive ground?

Thanks,
Sean

My coil is mounted directly behind the ignition key on the other side of the dash. (which was a new one to me)  I'll have to get under there and check it out.  Thanks for the diagram.  I'm hoping the coil is labled in some way so I can tell if the wires were changed.  If not hopefully the colors can still be distinguished.  Anyone else running an electric fuel pump?  I mounted mine back by the tank without drilling any new holes in anything and mounted the regulator on a panel I made that goes where the vacume canister was. I'm keeping everything so I can put it back to original once I see what I have. The gas tank doesn't have a vent which won't be a problem with the ill fitting cap and fuel gage but once I get them tight is some kind of vent needed?  Thanks again.

Sean   

I briefly tied to start the 29 plymouth I recently purchased and quickly realized there was a ton of water in the fuel system.  I pilled the tank, the carb, the retrofitted elec. fuel pump and cleaned them all.  I pulled the battery out at the same time to charge it.  I've since realized that this is probably a positive ground system.  I didn't take notice when I pulled the battery but looking at the terminals (one being bigger than the other) it seems like the battery had been installed with negative to ground.  The car had cranked and I was getting spark to the points and the head lights worked. Would it still do that if the battery had been hooked up wrong?  I don't want to fry anthing when I hook the battery back up.  Any advice?

Thanks,
Sean