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29 Build Thread - Part 2

Started by chetbrz, November 12, 2017, 10:10:35 AM

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chetbrz

All Suspension Work Completed

The original Build Thread was getting quite long so I decided to start another since this Thread completes most of the structural work and all the suspension restoration.  I must admit that new springs all around and repairing the problems with the mismatch shackles makes a big difference.  So after a year since I started the restoration the car is finally sitting on it's own four wheels again and in perfect alignment.





So on to the next chapter.  I'll be working on replacing the floor next ?


Chet...

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chetbrz

Can anyone confirm my assumptions below.

While waiting for the wire harness I have been doing some clean up work in preparation for the floor installation.

--

My understanding of the rear pan's positioning:

According to my current information the pan should sit back approximately 72 and 3/8 inches from the front sill edge to the front edge of the wooden cross member that the pan attaches to.  I believe that the front edge of the seat pan sits back roughly 3/8 of an inch from the front face of the wood cross member.  The height off the finished floor is 2.5 inches.  Also the rear of the pan attaches through the rear triangular body braces.  Again my car is a 4dr. sedan.



A picture looking down on the front of the rear seat pan would be greatly appreciated.

Can anyone confirm these assumptions ?
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chetbrz

Since I plan to rebuild the engine anyway and the wire harness is being created I decided to pull the engine so I can get it in the shop by mid January.  This way I can also clean up and paint the engine compartment which will make installing the new wire harness a breeze.  Also might be helpful putting in the front toe board.



I still need to disconnect the drive shaft and pull the transmission, remove the peddles, and remove the master cylinder.  Then I should be able to lower the bell housing and turn the engine enough to clear the steering box.  Anyone have any suggestions for clearing the steering box.



Tks,  Chet...
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frankp

Chet, if memory serves correctly, you have the right idea.  Lower the rear to clear the steering while raising the front end over the frame and bringing forward.  You won't have any problems.   frank

frank p

chetbrz

 
Thanks Frank, Seems reasonable. 

I will say it was much easier removing the drive shaft & transmission without the car floor.  It was almost fun.  When I first installed those new disks, it was all work under the car.  Today it was nice sitting on a cross member and working on the rear axle.  I have a feeling that my floor panels are going to become removable.



Chet...
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chetbrz

#5
The Motor is Out...





It appears to me that the Bell Housing was possibly Silver like the Head.

How do you guys feel about having the Bell Housing, The Head, and the intake manifold all the same color silver.  The exhaust standard Orange and the Block Flat Black.

It would definitely be an eye catcher...



There is a gentleman in New Castle Delaware who has a 29U 4dr Sedan which is an original unmolested car.  Will pay him a visit to photograph the wire harness and interior.  Yes Original Interior.  I'll get the low down on the engine colors.  I suspect everything black except the head.
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Articifer Tom

Hello Chet ,  So your engine is not original paint ,your saying . I do not know about orange manifold ,where did you see  that?  Also see what Dupli. Color or Rusto. Color matches  . The salesman book on my truck with Ply. 4 says head is Gray, not Silver with block  black . Was thinking of using a aluminum color hi-temp . But discussion on aaca seems to think water cooling engine surface temp will only be about or below 210*F ,boiling point  most paints can easily with standing , excluding manifold .

chetbrz

Quote from: Articifer Tom on December 04, 2017, 08:34:59 PM
Hello Chet ,  So your engine is not original paint ,your saying . I do not know about orange manifold ,where did you see  that?  Also see what Dupli. Color or Rusto. Color matches  . The salesman book on my truck with Ply. 4 says head is Gray, not Silver with block  black . Was thinking of using a aluminum color hi-temp . But discussion on aaca seems to think water cooling engine surface temp will only be about or below 210*F ,boiling point  most paints can easily with standing , excluding manifold .

Hi Tom,

Just going off the deep end a bit. Will stay with the stock colors.
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frankp

Well now Chet.  Those circus colors would go nicely with the polka dot interior!  Could have some interesting combos in those taxi's, you know.   Engine came out easy since you didn't mention issues?    frank
frank p

chetbrz

#9
Quote from: frankp on December 04, 2017, 09:33:53 PM
Well now Chet.  Those circus colors would go nicely with the polka dot interior!  Could have some interesting combos in those taxi's, you know.   Engine came out easy since you didn't mention issues?    frank

Yes engine came out with no problems.  Once the Bell Housing cleared the mounting brackets a slight turn to the left and the engine cleared the steering box.  No issues.  Today I load it into the back of the pickup for the drive north.

About the colors, OK, ok I lost my head.  Although it would be entertaining to see 22 clowns running in and out of the car.  Very reminiscent of an Air Show I attended recently with my P15.  Walked away to get a burger for lunch and found a whole family including three kids jumping up and down on the seats in my 48 Plymouth.  Now I lock the doors when I wander away.
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racertb

Interesting on the colors...my block, bell housing and intake are black, exhaust has no paint on it, and head is silver.  Used Rustoleum heat resistant silver BBQ paint for the head I did a couple years ago and has held up well.

chetbrz

The Motor Continued...

I delivered the motor safe and sound to J&M Machine in Southborough, Massachusetts.  They keep a Facebook Page and will be sharing photos of the rebuild in progress.  If anyone is interested the link is below and you do not have to be a Facebook member to view the pictures.  John reports that the pistons are the original stock size.  My assumption is that this is the first major rebuild.

https://www.facebook.com/pg/J-and-M-Machine-Co-Inc-270076059772640/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1467684380011796

The weather has turned a little cold but I have still been making progress.  I sent out my Original Generator and Starter motor to Don Allen in Florence, Oregon.  Don was featured on JAY  LENO'S  GARAGE.  Don will be completely restoring these parts to original like new condition.  This includes rewinding and wiring both the Generator and Starter motor with all new parts.  A "like new" engine deserves a "like new" Generator and Starter.  Below is a link to Don's web site.

https://www.gener-nator.com/index.htm

Neither one of these processes are inexpensive and just my personal choice.  Currently I am waiting for the wiring harness so if the weather gets better I will start on cleaning up the front frames and engine firewall.  Of course working on the toe board will be a lot easier without the engine.

Happy Holidays,  Chet...


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racertb

Happy Holidays to you and everyone else as well...looking forward to seeing the progress of the rebuild!

Articifer Tom

Yeah !  Chet hope you did not go up I81 with out stopping to say hello . Live at Jct of I81 x I80 .
Checked JM site man engine is dirty and water plugs where about to go on you . .

chetbrz

Tom,

I thought you lived in upstate NY.  I am not sure where i81/i80 are.., we just let the GPS lead us to where we needed to go.  I believe we were on i81 between Bridgeport & Hartford.  Probably 81 to 84 just don't remember now.  Are you in Connecticut or NY ?  We were only in NY long enough to get from NJ to Connecticut. 
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