My Dodge used aluminum , but some Chrysler's used stainless . Accidental ebayed a pieced .

For clutches you can send out to a place that does fork trucks or hi lifts  and other like equipment .

Pic from my BOI

Any luck with bearing ?  There is good post on AACA Taylormade thread on Resurrection of Daphane . Pg 29 -31 .

  Well lucky we have the clutch guru here CHET  . He'll help with sizing . But your correct it is return spring from bearing holder to hole in inspection opening
    Mine is correctly attached to nut and bear guide rod . It is to troublesome to remove . I am not sure if correct either . But look like 12 to 13 coils . wire size and overall length will be needed from guru C . I donot think it is that critical as strength ,need only pull back reesure to keep bearing from riding and spinning againt clutch , thus slowing wear on . 

From other ; crosses maybe Aetna A641-1   ,  BCA 1811   ,BJL  N847 .

Good one Chet . That's what it looks like . Never knew about one off trans support . I'll check for evidence of on mine tomorrow .

oops backwards  ..Poor front pic .

here is pic of rear . Front is same only sideways off frame rail . Do not have pic but can take one tomorrow .

Here is tailpipe hanger on  UF 10 that uses a car frame . It is two piece , i replicated for my UF . The muffler is supported front and rear . that is three location of hangers . Your lube chart in BOI will probably show .

Screw threads are in deep .

Check carefully it should take a threaded needle to meter the accelerator .  Also the commercial leather seals did not seal well for me . Better to make your own . If i remember used 1-1/2" OD fender washer as guide to cut out and then used on piston to push into pill bottle to see how it fit . The bottle has a taper to help start and be cut off and used to guide into carb . Must also lube well to help shape .

Same back at ya Chet ! And to all members .

Good Info , Thanks .

NICE !!