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I need some advise...

Started by kimmc, September 20, 2012, 01:03:50 AM

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frankp

Kim,  Great job!  Brings back old memories.  I believe the distributor housing is pot metal, so have the shop be careful if removing it.  frank
frank p

kimmc

I was thinking I would just bolt down the front engine mount directly to the frame like the rear motor mounts.  What good is 1 piece of rubber like a hockey puck going to do?  ;D  Thanks for suggestions; I like those.  I will remind the mechanic about the distributor...he's real savvy about old engines, but I always worry about those delicate parts.  Took a couple of days off working on the car.  A friend called me and said he had picked up a '29U complete engine in AZ that he thought I would want.  I went to San Francisco to pick it up; turned out it was a '30 Dodge truck engine I think (different than the '29U engine).  I didn't buy it so if anyone is interested I have a couple of pictures and the motor number (UT22672).  Tomorrow I will continue to degrease all the parts I pulled off then prime them before I put them on the shelf for their eventual return to the car.  I'll continue to post stuff so stay tuned.  Thanks again.  Kim Mc

kimmc

Here's a little history about my '29 U business coupe.  It was purchased new by my great grandfather in Omaha NE (i believe).  It spent its first 25 years in the vicinity of Stanton NE.  The car was handed down to my grand parents (residents of Stanton) and they gave the car to me when I was about 12 (1954).  I drove it all over our farm hunting and fishing.  My dad would let me drive it to the Platte River about 1/2 mi away through the fields on farm roads; I only had to cross one little used county gravel road.  Much of the dirt and mud still on the car I probably put there!  When I turned 14 I was able to get a "learners permit" that allowed me to drive from our farm to and from school and school functions.  That's when the car got painted purple and gold, the school colors.  Early in my sophomore year the family moved to the Texas gulf coast.  The car was last driven by me in 1956, the year of our move.  The car went into storage.  It remained in NE until the 90's when it was moved to Colorado .  Early in 2010 I brought the car to California (where I've lived since 1965).  It has been a long time goal of mine to restore this family heirloom.  Before I did anything to the car I was able to get Tod Fitch and Bob Semichy to look at the car and give me some advice.  Because all the wood in the car remains in excellent condition, they recommended that I not do a "frame-off" restoration.  I am taking their advice.  My goal is to bring the car back to it's "original" look and for it to be a nice restoration but not something that is only for show.  My enjoyment is working on the car, learning all about it, and being able to drive it once again.  I'm the 4th generation in the family to "own" the coupe.  It next goes to my daughter and her husband and eventually to my grandson (2 yo) who already loves cars!  I am having great fun with this project.  Attached is a picture of the car right after I got it here from Colorado. 

imoore

A very nice car you have. You are very lucky to have all the history of the vehicle. That info would look great on the display board. It would be an amazing feeling to be back behind the wheel once completed again. 

Ian
1928 Q tourer (Holden bodied)
Several vintage stationary engine

frankp

That is wonderful to have the history and the memories with it.  You will have fun and frustration.  Your goal, like mine, restore and drive it.  frank
frank p

1930

Quote from: kimmc on September 26, 2012, 11:25:05 PM
I was thinking I would just bolt down the front engine mount directly to the frame like the rear motor mounts.  What good is 1 piece of rubber like a hockey puck going to do?  ;D  Thanks for suggestions; I like those.  I will remind the mechanic about the distributor...he's real savvy about old engines, but I always worry about those delicate parts.  Took a couple of days off working on the car.  A friend called me and said he had picked up a '29U complete engine in AZ that he thought I would want.  I went to San Francisco to pick it up; turned out it was a '30 Dodge truck engine I think (different than the '29U engine).  I didn't buy it so if anyone is interested I have a couple of pictures and the motor number (UT22672).  Tomorrow I will continue to degrease all the parts I pulled off then prime them before I put them on the shelf for their eventual return to the car.  I'll continue to post stuff so stay tuned.  Thanks again.  Kim Mc
Hello, would it be possible to send some pictures and info to jhason2@yahoo.com Thanks
Jason Anderson

kimmc

Hi all.  Did a little work today but not as much as I had planned.  I pulled the shield off below the radiator that hides the frame and axel...(I'll have to check to see what that piece is called).  It needs some work.  I removed the rear bumper and worked on degreasing the splash shields from the engine bay.  That gunk is practically welded on.  I am still trying to remove one stabilizer rod that extends from the radiator through the firewall.  That's a challenging job for just one guy....I need at least one arm that is much longer than it currently is to reach under the dash to the inside of the firewall and to the engine side of the firewall at the same time.  Some pictures attached.

frankp

Kim,  I believe the metal below radiator and fenders is called a splash pan.   It took me years to find one in decent shape.  I see the gas tank is off, good decision.  Mine never was and the price was paid.  Thanks for your pictures documenting your progress.  frank
frank p

kimmc

Hi Frank.  Thanks for the correct terminology for the splash pan.  Mine needs a little re-shaping; that may be a good piece to start practicing "body work" on.  I need a little instruction first.  Yes, the gas tank was taken to a vendor that said they would take the dents out and coat it inside and out.  I was working out-of-state at the time.  I checked in a couple of times with them (they had my radiator, and radiator shell as well).  When I dropped in (two different times when I was home) they didn't know where my stuff was or if any work had been done.  This was supposedly a radiator shop that worked on vintage car stuff.  After 6 months I called them and said I was going to be in town and wanted to come by and talk to the owner; my stuff still wasn't done!  I went in and picked up all my parts after they searched for a while.  The fuel tank had been coated but no dents removed; they just coated right over them.  I was so @$#$% mad that I just took all my stuff and left.  I haven't decided what to do about the fuel tank; just leave it or have it redone (more $$$).  A lesson learned.  For my next post I am going to diagram the transmission-side fabric U-joint with bolts and washers as I found them.  I'm pretty sure these were original assembly.  I saw some discussion on the forum about the discs and "waffle" washers and I thought some of the forum members would be interested in how that was put together.  Anyhow, thanks for your responses.  I like talking with others that have plowed this same ground...the experience of "moss-backs" is very helpful.  Regards, Kim

kimmc

I am attaching a sketch of how the front disk U-joint was assembled on my car.  I am nearly certain that these discs were original factory assembly.  The nuts of all 6 bolts were towards the rear of the car.  The "waffle" washers I think most will recognize.  There was also 1 combination washer on each bolt; it was waffled on one side and flat on the other.  The flat side was nearest the nut on the trans spyder and nearest the bolt head on the driveshaft spyder.  I presume this arrangement allows better distribution of the pressure against the disks when tightening the bolts.  I hope the diagram makes sense and it will be useful to some.  Happy wrenching...  Kim

chetbrz

Quote from: kimmc on September 29, 2012, 11:42:10 PM
I am attaching a sketch of how the front disk U-joint was assembled on my car.  I am nearly certain that these discs were original factory assembly.  The nuts of all 6 bolts were towards the rear of the car.  The "waffle" washers I think most will recognize.  There was also 1 combination washer on each bolt; it was waffled on one side and flat on the other.  The flat side was nearest the nut on the trans spyder and nearest the bolt head on the driveshaft spyder.  I presume this arrangement allows better distribution of the pressure against the disks when tightening the bolts.  I hope the diagram makes sense and it will be useful to some.  Happy wrenching...  Kim

Kim if you don't mind I would liked to post this info in the tech section.
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

kimmc

Chet; sure, that's fine with me.  Information sharing is what this site is all about, right?  Kim Mc

kimmc

Well, made a little progress today.  Things always take longer to do than I expect.  Removed everything from the firewall and from behind the dash today.  Next I plan to take lots of pictures of the old original interior.  It's pretty ratty (literally, in some places where they gnawed the seats) so I expect it will go but I'll record it and save the materials, at least for a while.  So, here's a pic of the firewall sans all the wires and cables that pass through it; I also included a diagram of the firewall wiring and cable layout for use later.  Kim

kimmc

Well, I spent some time the last couple of days continuing to remove parts, labeling and bagging lots of screws and bolts, and taking many pictures.  This afternoon I removed the old upholstered kick panels, door panels, garnish molding, and glass from the driver's side door.  All went pretty wells.  Some big old mouse nests behind the kick panels...pretty ugly.  I found a little dry rot on a floor board beside the bottom corner of the passenger door but after some poking with an ice pick, I don't think it is serious enough to require removal of the entire piece.  We'll see.  On the driver's side, a small wood piece inside the door that covers the rubber strap that limits the distance the door can open will have to be fabricated.  But it won't be a big job; I used to do quite a bit of wood working as a hobby.  I am posting a picture of the passenger door with its panels still intact (but worn), the driver's door with everything removed, and an upholster's tack removing tool that was invaluable to remove the many tacks without destroying the old fabric-covered panels.  I wanted to keep those in tact in order that I can eventually deliver them to an upholster so he can use them to see what was done on the original car.  Oh, and I found an old 1919 wheat sheave penny...maybe lost by my great grandfather?  I'll keep it to display with his picture when I finally take the car out for its first Plymouth Club meet.  Kim Mc

kimmc

Well, for those of you checking on my progress I am continuing to disassemble the car.  The interior parts and upholstery are mostly out.  I spend a lot of time labeling and bagging parts and pieces.  Also I am taking lots of pictures and making sketches when I think a sketch will show something better than a photo.  I hope this will make things easier when the time comes to re-assemble the car.  Today I discovered some significant dry rot in the wood of the right rear corner beneath the fabric top.  Also, the wood piece across the top front of the cab may also need to be replaced but I don't have that completely exposed yet.  Looks like a shade-tree repair to the top was done "down on the farm".  Check out the picture of the burlap used beneath the top membrane.