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Messages - rwollman

#1
General Discussion / Re: Rear Window gasket ???
June 07, 2020, 05:38:18 PM
Sorry - the 28 just  has a flange that the rubber sits in, then the glass goes in outside groove of rubber.. no detents on the 28 that I remember.  Had the gentleman that painted the car install just the seal, that way if any cement (sealer) got on paint he could remove it - I just put the glass in. Hard to believe they would change that much in one year unless the two body manufacturers did things a little different in some areas.  I believe u already have your glass installed?? .  I'll look around a little and see if I can come up with something now that I know what you are dealing with..   
#2
General Discussion / Re: Rear Window gasket ???
June 06, 2020, 08:28:24 PM
go to Amazon - search for Trim Lok dense rubber window lock gasket - P# LK1663-25
#3
General Discussion / Re: Rear Window gasket ???
June 06, 2020, 08:19:30 AM
OK guess I don't understand the problem here - why not use the rear window gasket for a model A sedan - the window is bigger than the Plymouth so you have lots of rubber to work with. it goes right in over the body channel opening for the glass just like the original. a little windshield sealant seals the ends (black).  Set the glass in the bottom channel of the rubber then with a little pressure and a string you roll the outer lip over the glass -DONE.  seems better than glazing strips or whatever......I know, don't use model a stuff on a Plymouth but ya gotta use whats available sometimes
#4
General Discussion / Re: Some Help please:
May 01, 2020, 07:16:36 PM
Chet - on the 28 I work on both of these parts are polished brass - must be for looks
#5
General Discussion / Re: 29 Build Thread - Part 3
March 11, 2020, 05:39:53 AM
chet- yes, the lights are a pain butt  end  result  is  worth it - I put  the  signal lights on the parking  light bulb - just  changed  to a two contact setup - dont use  the  car  at  night so it  doesnt  bother.....had  to install second  tailight for everything  to be  in  working  order
#6
Chet- that is correct on the solid eccentric.  In this eccentric are the 4 vanes that slide out under centrifugal force when turning.  They must be able to move freely and create a good seal - hence the check for scoring.  Another place for scoring is the cover plate.  I have some knowledge in this area as I work on hydraulics and this is the same theory.  Should be a paper thin gasket under the plate.  Don't know where you can get replacement so be careful...good luck
#7
Chet - following these posts with interest and I have some thoughts to share... I would be looking at oil pump first.  This pump is centrifugal pump with 4 movable vanes.  As pump shaft rotates vanes move outward to form seal creating pressure.  Vacuum is created secondary to pressure due to vanes moving past vacuum port.  If vanes cannot move freely or body or vane ends are scored then more rpm would be required to create adequate seal to work. 
Changing relief valve setting should not effect amount of vacuum signal as you are not changing the volume of oil going thru the pump but rather the amount of pressure bypassing the relief valve spring. If pump internals look ok then I would check vacuum signal at the pump then at the vacuum tank.  If u have even a small leak this could cause your problem.  The 28 I work runs about 5 seconds on  initial startup at idle before oil pressure starts building. As far as oil draining back down pickup tube don't think this would bother as pump body and cam lines will hold enough oil to start working.  Good luck       
#8
General Discussion / Re: Vacuum Fuel Pump
December 17, 2019, 06:22:48 AM
Chet - looks like only difference in your setup is  the fuel bowl - the one I used is a top inlet.  Do you have inline filter someplace. I hid it just under firewall but still accessible from under hood. 
#9
General Discussion / Re: Vacuum Fuel Pump
December 16, 2019, 05:57:28 PM
Chet - that looks like it will work just fine - if I remember right I think fitting on oil pump vacuum was different but cant remember for sure - I f u need anything like that made I would be happy to give it a whirl for ya.
#10
General Discussion / Re: Vacuum Fuel Pump
December 16, 2019, 11:22:44 AM
Chet - re-used fittings that were there - fittings on copper line were of a ball design soldered on. Best I can explain is that they looked something like 1/2 compression ferrule.  We just unsoldered and re soldered them on new line.  I might be able to make them on lathe.  Is this what you have?
#11
General Discussion / Re: Vacuum Fuel Pump
December 15, 2019, 05:11:18 AM
Chet- 1/8" copper tubing - that is what was there when we started the project so thats what we stuck with
#12
General Discussion / Re: Vacuum Fuel Pump
December 12, 2019, 09:11:11 PM
Chet- for priming the Kingston pump simply remove inlet fitting and with small funnel put 1 pint of gas into it - I have not had to do this since car was back on road- will find out regarding long term storage after this winter.  I do not foresee any real problems but time will tell.... good luck and happy motoring
#13
General Discussion / Re: Vacuum Fuel Pump
December 12, 2019, 04:47:57 AM
Chet_ have followed this topic with some interest as I have been thru this problem.  My thoughts are as follows - I would be very concerned with an electric fuel pump in addition to the vacuum pump.  Reasons are as follows - Have no idea as to if this would hinder the operation of the vacuum pump as I would expect you would put pressure reg on too.  Im not sure if vacuum pump would supply adequate supply trying to suck thru two additional restrictions.  Biggest concern is that if electric pump is not shut off excess gas will be in the Vacuum canister, no doubt about it - and this would in turn be sucked into oil pump via vacuum line into engine oil.  Would hate to see you have to required engine for third time.  On the 28 that I have worked on extensively this is no problem starting car after long periods (weeks) of not running.  All we do is shutoff fuel on bottom of vacuum pump land let car run till out of gas to empty carb. To restart turn on the fuel and away it goes.  The vacuum pump is supposed to have app 1 pint of fuel for reserve at all times and this does not evaporate enough to bother.  Do what you think is best for you but just my thoughts. 
#14
General Discussion / Re: Another Decision
October 23, 2019, 07:19:57 AM
Chet- Kingston vs. Stewart Warner -  I looked at SW pump and these are my thoughts. - SW is much more complicated than Kingston - yes it does have a vac release system to prevent overfilling and fuel in oil but since it works off manifold vacuum vs oil pump the vacuum signal changes (drops) at the slightest engine load so on a longer grade if lugging engine at all one could even run out of fuel where at idle signal would be strongest- I feel there are too many variables in this pump and much more to go wrong.  Kingston works off oil pressure pump so as engine rpm changes so does signal - faster engine runs the more vacuum to system - makes more sense to me and much simpler in design..  just my thoughts.
#15
General Discussion / Re: Another Decision
October 22, 2019, 07:11:26 PM
Chet: have read with interest and fond memories yur post concerning fuel pumps..With the 28 that I helped build we had problems with fuel pump (kingston).  First off leaked, second off cork floats were completely shot.  Tried to cure with an electric set up but could never get the car to run right.  Just too much fuel even with pressure reg on its lowest setting (1#).  Next step was to blast bead and solder the outer can to stop the leaks which were mostly located in the bottom.  Once repaired can was checked first with was the with gas for leaks.  Once I was sure leaks were cured then can was mounted on my lathe, sanded and fiberglassed.  I then turned the can back to original size and shape. This is when we tried electric pump to no avail.  Then tried new cork floats on original setup but could find no cork that would stand up to to days fuel.  Finally found some modern float material that was machinable so i could make the size float that I wanted.  I then used a piece of brass threaded rod to replace the smooth rod in the mechanism.  Resoldered the original ends back onto the threaded rod after putting nuts on both ends of float.  This enabled me to control float height thus controlling the amount of gas in the can.  After a few trials and errors got everything dialed in and is presently working like a charm.  To check for gas in vacuum line I just installed small piece of clear plastic tubing in  loop as as u can see if gas is sucking thru it at all.  Hope this Helps  u out.