my brothers 28 is ori chrome and looks good with rest of car painted---

Chet-  Sorry, thought this was your engine we were talking about - guess I spoke out of turn - again, sorry

Chet_ what r u running for oil - a little lighter viscosity would drop psi -  Only thing it might bother are frt and rear main seals but they r new so it should not, besides it is going to loosen up a tad anyways as it breaks in. Does it go any higher at higher revs???

Chet - have been thinking about how to prime your engine with oil before starting.  If yu have the external oilvac pump this should be able to be done before installing engine back in frame.  when I did my brothers restart on his 28 after storage he wanted to check pump output.  We removed the pump, disassembled and cleaned it out and checked the vanes for wear.  Before re-installing, we plumbed it up with copper lines on intake and return  and plugged off vacuum line to fuel pump.  On output side added a gate valve to supply restriction and installed pressure gauge on port  for dash .  Spun the pump with electric drill on shaft with intake line in bucket of fresh oil and return back into bucket.   This pump would actually stall 1/4 inch drill motor.  Highest reading was 60 psi.  If you have same system I see no reason why this could not be done prior to installation into frame.  You could use either external oil supply or plumb into oil pickup in base.  Would just take a little copper line and some fittings. 

Happy Thanksgiving

chet - have been wondering about your engine project- glad to hear it is coming along...when i started my brothers 38 after sitting 30 plus yrs I drained then refilled engine with fresh oil.  Actually overfilled by 4 qts.  since this a square stroke engine this ensures at least one throw of the rod journals were immersed in oil. let it sit for about 20 minutes then turned 180 to get the other journal in oil and let that sit to soak.  Spark plugs removed and engine spun with starter until oil pressure was established. During this process vacuum line from oil pump to fuel pump was blocked to alleviate oil aeration.  Once all was good then oil was drained and refilled to proper level and car was started.  After running for a bit then fuel pumped was re hooked.  All was good.   There are many assembly lubes out there that should help alleviate your problem as long as they are used during rebuild process.  Still think there may have been additional issues concerning your rebuild but that is between your builder and you.  Good luck - just my 2 cents worth

that should be kinda hard to do since the drivers door lokcs in the opposite direction to open it from the inside - one would have to purposely lock the door after getting out.Not saying it can't happen- answer to yur question - very carefully

I think your statement regarding the brake drums to be very correct - the design and heft of these drums makes it practicably useless to turn.  Any heat at all will distort them and the thinner they are the worse it gets.  Any news from your engine builder yet on what happened to the crank and/or rod(s)?

well that at least .125 thinner - makes sense.

Chet- was curious if you happened to measure thickness of refurbed pressure plate against the one that disintegrated on you

Sometimes its best to just stop and take a breather - then start again

Chet_  How U makin outwith your engine - haven't  heard anything in a while - I was thinking that you mighht have possibly bent a rod with your mishap - they r pretty frigile

Chet- I'll look thru my Dykes engine info - I think the min and max side clearances for the rods is stated there.  Will let u know if I find it

Chet- don't believe that incident caused your problems .  That engine has 3 main bearings and the crank is strong enough to withstand what happened.  Rods are supposedly interchangeable from journal to journal so that shouldn't cause your knock either.  You just have to determine where the wear is and then go from there - good luck

Chet - shims will not take care of sideplay in the rod -either the crank journal or rod is worn - sorry to tell u that but tha'ts the way it is .  If u have a micrometer you can check the outside width of the #1 rod journal (big end of rod)  and compare to the noisy ones for an answer.  Shims only set oil clearance between rod and crank.  Good luck and keep us posted.  Sounds to me as if your engine builder has a problem on his hands. 

Chet- listened to yur video quite a few times - I can hear the knock upon acceleration - I think it might be a rod or wrist pin - do you have a mechanics stethoscope?  If not they are very cheap and really can pinpoint a noise, even a vacuum leak.  Should be available at any auto store for 9-15 bucks.