Chet_ glad u got it worked out - I was thinking towards a binding or broken valve spring as based on your description of the noise in relation to cam revolution.....

Chet_ was wondering if you had any run time on this engine before it went to the rebuilder- If so did u notice any similar noise(s)?

Chet_ That is not good!!.. There is no way that motor could develop enough RPM to do that on its own.  Been pondering on what could have caused it and can only come up with heat fatigue crack.  Appears that the unit was rebuilt prior to installation, find it hard to believe that crack didn't show up during machining process.  Have u contacted party who rebuilt it and and advise them?   May help someone else in the future.   Did any of the bolts shear off holding plate to flywheel?  Appears that starter drive is pretty well protected but you might want to check that while its apart for impact and/or damage.  This may have been a blessing in disguise as I hate to think what could happen had u been driving it and this happened.  Could have caught and tore up tranny and/or canvas ujoints with weight of car.  U may try Hagans Auto parts, they list for your car but say to call for availability.  Might be a place to start anyways.  Am quite certain that is not a one yr fit.....
Good luck in your endevor........

Chet_ hows your radiator?  We backflushed the 28"s with a garden hose and you wouldn"t believe what came out of it- made it run about 15 degrees cooler- took it right off so we could turn it upside down and just let the water go thru it both ways-no chemicals as it is 90 yrs old....glad everything worked out for you....

way to go chet - I have followed yur build with great interest as we have done pretty much the same on the 28 my brother owns . All done except for a fuel pump problem that I am gonna cure if it kills me. Sometimes the littlest things really mess you up....

Chet- more food for thought -  looks like engine is in car so you would have to get it up to remove bell housing.  How about a pilot shaft with a sleeve on it the same size as the nose cone on tranny. then put throwout bearing on that and adjust back to where the fingers belong if possible

Chet_ i agree with your thoughts on stop leak.  not a pressurized system  so if gaskets are correct no need for it> may also bother radiator flow....just my thoughts
Rad

Chet _ those are the fingers on the pressure plate correct?.  Appears that they are not bent but turned on the mounts.  Did u have the pressure plate rebuilt? was wondering if the mounts are broken are turned ?  Possibly the builder could reset them if u are lucky...Good luck

Chet - U were lucky your machinist found the pistons - looks like beautiful work.  Man, that rear thrust bearing in the block sure looks like an insert - is your machine shop doing the Babbitt work or is it farmed out?

Chet: could you list where you located os pistons - I could only find standard and was considering sleeving block if necessary - thanks

chet - is the oil pressure adjusted at this relief valve pictured? On the 28 it is adjusted inside the engine after removing the base.  The oil vac pictured is identical to the 28. Since the oil pump is a vane pump oil viscosity would play a factor.  I don"t believe worn bearings would be as much a factor as a worn pump.  I believe vacuum for the fuel canister is created by an venturi effect.  Line size to the fuel pump would not create more or less vacuum, only effect the time it takes to reach max vacuum in the canister..  I didn"t check signal strength on the vacuum line, wonder if anyone has as I have never found any specs regarding this.  A good service manual on these engines would be worth its weight in gold.  LI believe you are  having your engine redone, did you ever take a compression test or cylinder leak down test on it?  The one I am working on carries about 60 psi compression but cylinder leakage test shows app 80% leakage past the rings therefore either rings/cylinders are worn or rings stuck/collapsed.  Going to run it a bit then retest to see if any changes take place. 

Chet - am very interested in the pressure relief valve you refer to in your post as I have never heard of this.  Presently I am running an electric fuel pump in place of the vacuum setup as I could not control the fuel level in the canister which resulted in fuel being sucked in through the vacuum line from the oil pump - not good.  Car does not run as good as vacuum setup although I do not have the correct carb for the car.  (28Q).  I have searched numerous sites in an attempt to ID carb but had no luck.  Thought it might be off an old tractor but don"t believe so as it has an accelerator pump and tractor carbs usually do not.  I would love to go back to original vacuum setup if possible so any info I can obtain would be helpful.  As far as your thoughts on line ID affecting flow I think that one would have to really substitute a much larger vacuum line from pump to canister to cause any negative effects.  ON oil pressure with vacuum canister vs electric pump I have found that oil pressure is increased quite a bit with the deletion of the vacuum line.  I attribute this to fact that there is no oil aeration in pump caused by air.  In reference to the other gentleman's car  and his question regarding oil pressure affecting lifter noise, don"t think this is plausible as lifters are not hydraulic.  Would sooner think there is a lifter to valve clearance problem once engine reaches operating temp. .When you get your engine back I would be very interested in your results of compression test as no one really has posted what good compression reading would be in these engines.  Compression adversely affects fuel mixture settings as it takes more fuel to run low compression engines which also requires retarded timing.  Does anyone have a good way to set timing on these engines?  I know it is set thru #3 cyl on exhaust stroke with a dial indicator at .050-.048 BTDC.  gtotta be a better way..  Just my 2 cents on project.       

Chet - there was wooden molding around the rear window in the 28 that I am working on - as far as the interior weatherstrip I used some some cloth stripping I got from england.  This worked very well and I probably can get the address for you.  Photos of this car will be posted once we get the frt fenders back from body shop and installed - will be completed then..

try Hagans Auto Parts in the State of Washington - they have gaskets sets for the 28-29 plymouths

thank u sir