Looking good there Chet . I see those other shackles ,though maybe they were Ford type . I think Ford's have castle type nuts . Probability some aftermarket company . Noticed your tie rod ends are the spring topped type is there part numbers on them , and are they original ?

Thanks all . Found from carbking is 149s an aftermarket replacement for Pontiac 1930 Marvel .

Yes, I figured its Mopar not sure if Chevy had carbs on right or left . Was trying to narrow more exact . Could even be a more obscure vehicle ,Nash or even export . The extra lever is not pump that's missing and on other side . The leveler pulls to accelerate only ,minimum . Carbking said the mainjet a 12/73s matches to twenties Chevy ,but said it may have been changed also . Pic otherside. Found jet is actual 12/135, today with magnification .

Does anyone recognize this brass bowl DRT-08 . Note additional leveler ,possible hand throttle . Trying to match to a vehicle .

Looking good Chet . I did not see the different passenger side shackle , please show .
     Also on your removal of steering box . Did you notice any slotting of holes in frame where it mounts or internal adjustment . I am trying to adjust my steering wheel higher to accommodate my love handles . There are slots on the mount in cab , but maybe for just differences in cabs and frames .
    Remember reading about the bolt holding the shackle together also squeezed it to dampen the action of the suspension and nuts were then locked in position . Do not know how your extra washers may effect that ,if at all . 

Great solution Chet . I agree with your goals and try to do same . This modification would be hard to be picked up .

Check out page 248 part RW2 of The Filling Station catalog . It has new posts available ,that look close . 

Your welcome .   Also E-bay as a NOS set for sale now ,they claim for Chevy ,but show no measurements . You may ask .
                     Tom

Yes a far as caps maybe costly to make . May, keep eye on e-bay . Saw some I did not measure at Hershey so there out there . Jay at Pre1939Chrysler on aaca forum may have some lightly used ones I must go to his shop to look for my replacement . It is were I got my spring . My pic shows donor spring and removed main leaf and  leafs attaching to .

Looks a lot like mine .Will have to measure . Remember pin is pressed fit in spring . See attached info at
www.wokr.org/library/Tryon.PDF  Trying to attach a pic of mine don't seem to work .  Did work ,good !
   

Chet . looks like you got a lot of it figured . Only thing a would look again ,  at is reaming out shackle hole in spring . I had same question when I adapted the Chrysler spring to my Dodge ,front oil lite was prefect fit, but rear needed bushing out and larger hole . I did not think it best to cut hardened spring so machined the surface hardened post to fit , this let the ends still hard . If your posts are totaled . Just machine new ones and surface harden .
  Was curious if on springs strap you found the manuf. number and a symbol of a keystone . If so they were probable made by Tyron Co . also, like shackles , out of Harrisburg Pa. .
                                                      tom 

Take a careful look at your shackles . I had a broken spring that wore the Tryon brand hangers egged on the end dropping driver side 3/16"  . Just reversing hangers holders and replacing spring corrected . Also DBC website has a list of all arch measurements of Dodge springs ,by physical sizes may match to other Mopars . If nothing else both sides should be the same .

I wish you luck . Went through similar last year with mine was titled  wrong year . Was expecting a big hassle had all paper work ready ,including build card . My notary said do not send it unless ask , just do the form . It was no problem as it turned out . Like he said ,as long as they get there money .

You may lose lots of pedal as you increase the volume of fluid needed for master to fill cylinders. That's why you have a 1-1/4" bore on your master  and it is four times the length of one wheel  cylinders stroke plus a little . 1-3/8 will give you great stopping ,but it may not be until second pump . Just a thought .
  The turn around on my rebuild was less 2 weeks with shipping . You can let one leak or take it off , cap it ,and use on three. While sending  four back if your spares are same .

Hagen Hwy, cost me 55 ea. last year in stainless and include total rebuild . He went above and beyond by replacing the stripped bleeders with flesh edged old stock that matched my patina and a bad piston  . Just under 500 for 4 cylinders and all brake shoes relined with new proper soft linings ,bonded for longer life . Go Original . And shipped to Pa.