Author Topic: 29 Build Thread  (Read 8792 times)

chetbrz

  • POC MEMBER
  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1196
    • View Profile
    • My Space on the Web
Re: 29 Build Thread
« Reply #15 on: November 02, 2016, 09:17:21 PM »
... I had same question when I adapted the Chrysler spring to my Dodge ,front oil lite was prefect fit, but rear needed bushing out and larger hole .

Tom,

What size were the shackle pins on your Dodge.  On the Plymouth they fit a 7/8" hole.  See Diagram below.  Does this look anything like your Dodge shackles.



On the drivers side spring I need one shackle pin and both inner and outer shackle plates Items 2 & 9. I can have them made but fear this might cost $$$.  I may need to find a small metal shop out here in Delaware.  It probably cost the same to make one as it does to make 20.
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

Articifer Tom

  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 53
    • View Profile
Re: 29 Build Thread
« Reply #16 on: November 03, 2016, 01:38:16 AM »
Looks a lot like mine .Will have to measure . Remember pin is pressed fit in spring . See attached info at
www.wokr.org/library/Tryon.PDF  Trying to attach a pic of mine don't seem to work .  Did work ,good !
   

Articifer Tom

  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 53
    • View Profile
Re: 29 Build Thread
« Reply #17 on: November 03, 2016, 01:45:52 AM »
Yes a far as caps maybe costly to make . May, keep eye on e-bay . Saw some I did not measure at Hershey so there out there . Jay at Pre1939Chrysler on aaca forum may have some lightly used ones I must go to his shop to look for my replacement . It is were I got my spring . My pic shows donor spring and removed main leaf and  leafs attaching to .
« Last Edit: November 03, 2016, 09:51:56 PM by Articifer Tom »

chetbrz

  • POC MEMBER
  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1196
    • View Profile
    • My Space on the Web
Re: 29 Build Thread
« Reply #18 on: November 03, 2016, 04:54:00 PM »
Looks a lot like mine .Will have to measure . Remember pin is pressed fit in spring . See attached info at
www.wokr.org/library/Tryon.PDF  Trying to attach a pic of mine don't seem to work .  Did work ,good !
   

Bingo !!

Tom that is the exact shackle for the 29 Plymouth U Front leaf rear shackle.  I haven't checked the rear springs yet.
As stated in the PDF document you posted:   www.wokr.org/library/Tryon.PDF

Shackle Pin Dimensions:

Pin OD = 0.877 +-0.0005 (approx. 7/8)  &  Length = 2.9375  (approx. 2 & 15/16)

And yes the pin was press fitted into my spring.  I removed it using my press.  Now based on the other cars that used this shackle I can broaden my part search.  I will post this 3 page PDF file to the Tech Area.

Many, many thanks for your research !!!!    Chet...
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

Articifer Tom

  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 53
    • View Profile
Re: 29 Build Thread
« Reply #19 on: November 03, 2016, 09:55:08 PM »
Your welcome .   Also E-bay as a NOS set for sale now ,they claim for Chevy ,but show no measurements . You may ask .
                     Tom

Articifer Tom

  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 53
    • View Profile
Re: 29 Build Thread
« Reply #20 on: November 04, 2016, 05:47:19 PM »
Check out page 248 part RW2 of The Filling Station catalog . It has new posts available ,that look close . 

chetbrz

  • POC MEMBER
  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1196
    • View Profile
    • My Space on the Web
Re: 29 Build Thread
« Reply #21 on: November 04, 2016, 10:21:31 PM »
Check out page 248 part RW2 of The Filling Station catalog . It has new posts available ,that look close .

Hi Tom,

I checked out the ones on ebay and also the ones from the catalog.  The Chevy 30-33 was a Tryon Shackle but the Shackle pins are to small.  It is a shame that dimensions for old parts are not stated.  Back in the day most auto manufactures used off the shelf manufactured parts which were not proprietary.  If I can't find original parts there are options.  Probably use oil-lite bearings and pin the shackles that I have.  Also discussing this with Tom at Antique Auto Parts.  If I ever find a proper replacement I can always pop out the oil-lite bearings and install the original Tryon Shackle.  I sent the spring I have to EATON Detroit Spring and hopefully they can make me a fresh new set.  They need the old spring mainly to determine the hardness of the material.  In the meantime I am dissembling all the front steering components, they will all be cleaned, painted, and checked for excessive wear.  Anything badly worn will be repaired are replaced.  The good news is the King Pins are in great shape.




Tks Chet...
« Last Edit: November 04, 2016, 11:32:10 PM by chetbrz »
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

chetbrz

  • POC MEMBER
  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1196
    • View Profile
    • My Space on the Web
Re: 29 Build Thread
« Reply #22 on: November 12, 2016, 12:30:10 AM »
UPDATE:   Just to be clear:

My goal is always to do no harm to the original components when trying to find a modern day part solution.  
What I mean is..,
I will not modify any original component so that it can not be returned to its historic originality if and when an original part is found. 

My solution for the Tryon Shackle Issue:

After much discussion with various vendors and part restorers I stumbled across a fix that will maintain the historic integrity of my car and I believe also produce a road worthy solution.   I was able to find parts in a trailer store that met the requirements for a reasonable noninvasive fix. 

  • 7/8" (0.875") OD to 9/16" ID  -  Teflon spacers.
  • 9/16" Shackle Bolt Length 3" with ZERK fitting.
  • 1.750" to 2" leaf spring width.
  • Shackle Strap 2.250" on Shackle Pin Centers.

The shackle straps are a close match to the remains of the Tryon Shackle Straps.


The total cost of the parts for this fix for both leaf springs was $ 45.54

BTW the Teflon bushings are rated at 4,000 lbs. each.  EATON Detroit Springs are in the process of duplicating my front leaf springs.  The cost is pricey but I believe it will be well worth it.

Once the suspension is brought back to a reasonable and sound condition I will be able to allow the car to rest on its normal suspension and use jacks only to firm up the chassis while I fit the wooden frame and body parts.  This way, when sitting on its normal suspension the stress on the frame parts should be at minimum.  Also once aligned the hope is that it will stay in an aligned state after all the work is completed and the car rests on its normal road worthy suspension.   :)



http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

Jim Yergin

  • FOUNDING MEMBER
  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 18
    • View Profile
Re: 29 Build Thread
« Reply #23 on: November 12, 2016, 02:45:03 AM »
Chet,
Congratulations on finding a solution. I enjoy watching your progress.
Jim Yergin

Articifer Tom

  • Full Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 53
    • View Profile
Re: 29 Build Thread
« Reply #24 on: November 12, 2016, 03:16:39 AM »
Great solution Chet . I agree with your goals and try to do same . This modification would be hard to be picked up .

frankp

  • POC MEMBER
  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 397
  • 29U 4dr Sedan #Y089WE
    • View Profile
Re: 29 Build Thread
« Reply #25 on: November 12, 2016, 09:35:46 PM »
Nice, Chet!  Your effort will benefit all of us.
frank p

chetbrz

  • POC MEMBER
  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1196
    • View Profile
    • My Space on the Web
Re: 29 Build Thread
« Reply #26 on: November 16, 2016, 02:18:22 AM »
The Suspension Continued.

I continued the work of cleaning and checking the front suspension components.  I spent an entire day working on the Drag Link steering arm.  The crusted grease and road gravel collected over the past 8 decades was not easy to remove.  I worked slowly with a small wood chisel to scrap the accumulated crust off the Drag Link arm.  It took a considerable amount of time before things started to look like something that could be disassembled.

..

As you can see below, persistence always pays off.  The most impressive thing to me was the condition of the tightly bound component parts.  I am sure that this Drag Link has not been disassembled since the manufacture of the car but the component parts were in reasonable shape for the age of this automobile.  I believe when I assemble these parts they should be good for another 80+ years.

..



« Last Edit: November 16, 2016, 02:26:40 AM by chetbrz »
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

chetbrz

  • POC MEMBER
  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1196
    • View Profile
    • My Space on the Web
Re: 29 Build Thread
« Reply #27 on: November 18, 2016, 05:35:41 PM »
Your Thoughts.

Since I am working on the steering linkage.., the roof is off my car.., my wooden steering wheel is broken and in need of removal and repair, here is what I am thinking about doing.

First;  Removing the steering wheel without damaging the steering wheel cover or control arms and tubes.



I have not done this before and do not want to break these seemingly delicate parts.  My assumption is that the top wood cover is held in place through a long shaft going down to the light switch assembly.  I believe this light switch and associated parts need to be removed before the cover and control tubes can be removed.

Does anyone have any words of wisdom before I tackle this area.

Also:  Since the steering arms cleaned up so nicely I was thinking of removing the entire steering assembly to clean and inspect for wear or damage.  see below...



Many Thanks, Chet...


http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

frankp

  • POC MEMBER
  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 397
  • 29U 4dr Sedan #Y089WE
    • View Profile
Re: 29 Build Thread
« Reply #28 on: November 18, 2016, 06:18:03 PM »
Chet,

From memory,

Remove CLUM switch, all metal from the tubes below the steering gear and loosen any clamps that would prevent the tubes from moving towards the steering wheel.  The horn wire will go with the tubes as you remove them.

Pull up gently on the bakelite next to the steering wheel.  Every thing should ease out.  The tubes are attached to the levers.

The 2 bakelite pieces are joined by 2 screws and ferrules.  Note the orientation of the levers for reassembly.  I didn't and fussed with getting it back correctly, light lever at 6 o'clock or towards the bottom.

Unfortunately, I have no pictures.  If I could do it without wrecking anything, I know you can.  Other folks can provide better detail.

frank
frank p

chetbrz

  • POC MEMBER
  • Senior Forum Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1196
    • View Profile
    • My Space on the Web
Re: 29 Build Thread
« Reply #29 on: November 19, 2016, 01:53:31 AM »
Frank Your memory is excellent.  Everything worked out as you mentioned in your post:

I removed the bottom gravel pan and the switch assembly as well as all the clamps.  The cap and levers came out with just a little persuasion.  I also removed the Steering Gear Box.  Well for now I have a lot of parts to clean up.  The springs are on their way and Then & Now made new spring bumpers for me.  Plymouth Part# 43281


http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member