I rebuilt my universals about a year ago.

I bought rubber replacements from Today and Yesterday. They were made from fire hose but were too thin and would buckle. Sent them back and they refunded the cost. Good people.

I met a guy, that knew a gu,y that cut them out of conveyer belting and they have bee working fine.

There are some available on FleaBay once in awhile that are molded out of some kind of tough composite that look real good and tough. But he wants $59.00 a piece! Too much for me. Also John Deere stocks power take off discs that fit, but I think they cost even more.

The best bet is to source the conveyer belting of the same thickness and figure a way to cut an drill the holes. If money is no object,t the composite or JD would fit the bill.

Of course really look, write down or photo the correct assembly. There are about 85 + bolts, washers cotter pins ect.

The threads on most of the bolts and nuts were worn but a good hardware store had them along with the castle nuts. You can cut and drill for the pins.

I didn't have enough wavy washers and substituted some with flat washers of same thickness and diameter. I don't know the torque values so I torqued them real good. Nothing is supposed to float. It's a good idea to torque them down about every 1500 miles or so till the washers settle in.

Ask in the Parts wanted Section. Someone may have extra wavy washers, but as you know, it takes a lot of them. I think flat washers are OK.

It's far from rocket science, but real PIA if you rush it.

If you have anymore questions just ask.

SteveG

Dropped my camera and broke it. (second one).

The Clum is the semi-circular switch located on the very bottom of the steering column, Controled by the lever on the horn rim.

I'll send a pic when I buy another camera.

SteveG 

'Quote; "John,  I didn't glue mine.  Held in place by aluminum trim on running board perimeter."

I also did this.

SteveG

Thank you guys for the replies. I love to hear stories about these old Plymouths. That old rebuild sounds very interesting.

I've had mine a couple of years and probably put around 1500 miles on her. These old engines are darn tuff. I took a compression test and it ran 57 to 60 lbs. across all 4. The plugs get a little nasty after around 400 or 500 miles. The porcelain looks pretty good buy the electrode has a bunch of thick hard gray black stuff adhered to it. I just run them thru the plug cleaner, pop 'em back in and go another 4- 500 miles. These are very tough old engines. I suspect the rear main seal is leaking because some oil drains out the hole in the bottom of the bell housing, but not too bad.

She runs about 30 lbs. oil pressure after a minute at start up and then 25-28 after running awhile.

What pressure do you guys see?

SteveG

Chet - My experience is the same as yours in that my tailpipe points down and blows out black soot on start up. but it is clean running afterward.

I also have an old Stromberg (UL?) carb in place of stock. It's gotten a little long in the tooth, but the car starts right up and runs so well I think I'll let that dog lie!

I am running 20/50 wt. oil. What are you running?

SteveG

My car doesn't smoke, but pushes about a quart of oil about every 200 miles or so.

What kind of oil usage are you experiencing?

SteveG

I am going with my friend to look at a '29 4 door.

Did the '29 still use the Clum switch on the bottom of the steering column or a switch on the dash?

SteveG

Chet is right on the money.

Like you I was concerned with the over flow whenever I filled the radiator, 'till I found out about what Chet was talking about.

When I first got my car I removed the engine side of the top and bottom hoses, then hosed inside of the block and radiator. An amazing amount crud was removed. The engine runs cool, even in 95 degree ambient temp.

SteveG

Thanx Hursst, but I'm looking for information on my specific car. FedCo# RP  264  Y.

Looks like the Chrysler Historical is now the FCA Historical Services.

MoPar to Fiat Chrysler Automobiles. Walter P. is probably flipping over in his grave!

SteveG

I am trying to find as much history as I can on my '28 Business Coupe. I have the orininal FedCo numper.

I contacted Chrysler (now FCI) Historical Services but they said quote;
"Unfortunately, our build records for 1928 Plymouth model year are incomplete.  We do not have the build record for your vehicle in our files.  These records were never transferred to the archives and do not exist within the company."

Does anyone where I can look for more information?

Thank you,
SteveG 

I ran about 3' of 3/16" copper tubing  from the intake manifold to under the dash and then 3/16'" rubber vacuum tubing to the tubing that comes down from the motor.

I don't think it matters much what kind of tubing you use. It was just stuff laying around the mess I call a shop. I think the copper tubing looked better in the engine compartment. The rubber tubing is a lot easier to use then messing with copper fittings, just slip it over the copper.

On/off switches are almost impossible to find. Wiperman suggested that aquarium stores stock something that will work. I'll look tomorrow.

SteveG

Hooked it up and the wipers work as they should.

Here's a great guy who really knows about wiper motors.

http://www.wiperman.com/

SteveG

I have 3/16 tubing to run from the manifold to the 3/16 that comes out from the wiper, rather then using the 1/8 as is in your car. (I don't have 1/8 available right now).

I don't think the will size make a difference, unless it has to do with increasing the vacuum. I'm probably over thinking this.

I going to hook it up and see if the rebuilt Trico motor works.

Thank you.

SteveG

Just had my wiper motor re-built and need to know if the vacuum tubing from the manifold to the motor is copper all the way?

Also what size tubing is it?

Thank you,

SteveG

I didn't see the modification part of the article. Thank you.
It was interesting to see that a slant six fits under the hood.
SteveG