http://www.thehotrodcompany.com/shopnow/show_item.asp?product_id=P4259. This isn't where I got mine but it is the same thing. You don't need a regulator if you are going straight to the carburetor. Like I said I just use mine to prime the vacuume  pump now and if I remember to cut off the petcock it doesn't need a prime.

I have a carter 6 volt vain pump I got from NAPA. it mounts on rubber isolators so positive or negative ground doesn't matter. Before I got my vacuum pump working this pump worked well. I just left it in line and use it to prime  the vacuum pump now.

Here is another view. There may be more clearance than you have but like Chet says, a washer would make up the difference. That joint doesn't flex much. 

I have closed the shop for the day but I will do it in the AM. But I can already tell you that my bolts look like yours. I don't think you can get it together any other way.

Not the best picture, But to my knowledge it has never been apart 

I will try and find a picture of the windshield. There ar two rectangular  loops on top the frame that the dowel go in. As the gears turn it raises the windshield

There was a discussion on this a while back. I posted some pictures of what I had done to get mine to work. The Plymouth crank gears are made from pot metal and break easily. If you can find a crank from a a car that uses steal gears It's easier to work with. The crank just rotates the regulators. two pins are in some slides on ether side at the top of the windshield. It only raises a few inches. The first little bit lets air hit the dash and directs it to the floor. raise it above that and it blows directly in. Works great. 

I am going out on a limb here. Are you sure it is using that much oil. My U takes quite a while to let the oil drain back in the pan to get a good reading. And most any engine is hard to pour oil in to when it is running. If you were burnning that much oil I would think there would be a lot of smoke. Just my thought

That's Great. How is the steering after you worked on it?

I would have to say my disc are original, They look a little weathered, but there is no vibration and I just drive the car around local and it does great for 80 year old. I have a customer That is 92 and still throes his leg over his motorcycle every day the sun is shinning so this age thing is not looking to bad. 

Hey Chet, I use to work in a truck shop. We would put a wedge on top of the axle to lean the king pins back so you would create caster to make the truck want to go straight. the more wedge the more it will want to go straight but harder to steer. Like I have said before I believe my 30U to be all most original as far as the frame axles all that. It's low mileage doesn't appear to have been disassembled. There is no wedge on my axle. I can't tell that it would make any difference witch way the beam was installed. Some one through the years  put the wedges in his trying to make it drive better when what it really needed was a rebuild. My thoughts.

That's right. The more you tilt the king pins  back the straighter it will want to go but harder to steer.

I believe you can tell more about your charging system by checking the voltage at the battery.  All the amp gauge is showing is that it is charging and any resistance in the wiring could cause a higher reading.

Mine has the same hole. I stuck a rifle bore brush through it, Just came out oily. That's the great thing about these old cars.

Look at this link on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140591925977&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT