I'll double check the wires/order although they were not removed...you never know. 

Thanks Old Man and Frank (and Ian too!)...

I believe I'm close and the distributor is not in the right location.  As mentioned above, I went through the static timing steps (even watched a couple videos on You Tube) and got everything lined up the way I'm understanding it.  I was quite sure the car would fire off yesterday, but it made that grinding kind of noise every couple of revolutions.  From the other post, a couple folks thought that meant the timing was way too advanced.  I played with the distributor somewhat in different positions and she almost fired off.  Too bad the battery was about dead at that point.

Does it matter that I pulled the distributor out when I made sure the rotor was pointing at the #1 plug wire/terminal on the cap?  I don't think it would as long as the rest of the firing order was correct and the rotor was lined up correctly.

Please let me know if this could be part of the problem, thanks.

Ian, I had the #1 piston up on the compression stroke and had the rotor at the #1 plug wire in the cap ready to fire.  I did, however, remove the distributor and reposition to do this.  Would that have made a difference or does it matter as long as #1 plug was in position to fire and everything was in the correct firing order?

I was so sure I had everything right and ready to go.

Thanks Frank, this is a big help.

Still working on the car.  Found TDC, test light works when supposed to with points opening, but car still not starting.  I keep fooling with the distributor.  The last time I tried, she acted like she wanted to start.  I think I may have to trial and error it with the distributor, otherwise, start all over again.

At this point, I think electrical is all ok and just timing way off.  Charging battery now so I can try again tomorrow.

Good morning:

Can anyone tell me what size the distributor insulating strip should be?  I'm talking about the piece that separates the points from the inside distributor wall housing.  Also, what kind of material is it made of?

The only piece I have in my distributor is square shaped and is only at the area where the side coil terminal wire is.  I am thinking there should be a longer piece that goes between the points curved arm and casing.  I thought I recently saw in this forum a top view of a distributor with a longer piece.  Maybe it was the post from Steve and a wiring question.

Regardless, can anyone answer my questions?  Thanks...

Thanks for the info!

Quick update.  Removed the plugs, turned the motor over using the crank with my finger over the #1 plug hole.  It was easy to feel the compression stroke forcing the air against my finger.  I did this several times to get the feel and make sure I got it at TDC. 

I then made sure the rotor button was lined up with where the #1 terminal/plug wire in the cap is so the #1 plug is set to fire.  I had to remove and reinstall  the distributor to do this, otherwise I wouldn't have been able to get everything in line.  I'm going to check the points with a test light and adjust the distributor as necessary.

I believe I'll be ready to start the car at this point.  Keeping my fingers crossed.

Did I miss anything?

Hey 29plycoop, I had the distributor out yesterday and looked over everything including the gear.  No wear on gear or pin that was noticeable.  Everything seemed in good shape with no play.

At this point, I think I just need to find tdc and get the distributor in the right position to get the timing right. I'm hoping that's all I need to do!

Thanks!

Great,  I'll keep you all posted.  It might be a few days until I get back too it.

Thanks Frank, I saw that to...so either exhaust stroke on #4 (per manual), or compression on #1?  That's the way I'm understanding now.  I may pull of the valve cover off or use the air method (compression) on #1 like In does.    Let me know if I'm wrong here.  Thanks again guys.

Just to be clear, #4 cylinder needs to be on the compression stroke (air forced out) to determine that it's TDC?

If I can't get the screw out, I could still use Ian's method (similar to what I've read online) using the #4 cylinder, I'm assuming.

Took out the distributor (remembering it's position), cleaned it up, reset points.  I made sure the spring is not touching and even put a thin piece of Gorilla tape on the inside of the housing just as an added security measure.  Everything looks good at least.  Reinstalled the distributor.

I may use Ian's method of using the #1 plug instead of #4.  That screw on top of the motor over #4 will not budge! 

OK, need to clarify.  When I determine the piston is at tdc and at the top (whether observed or felt) as described, how do I know if it's on the exhaust stroke or compression stroke? 

Thanks Frank!  I never knew about the access screw.  This makes sense with the manual.  I'm not sure what edition manual I have... I'm first going to fix my points.  I looked at them a few minutes ago and the breaker arm is against the inner wall on the distributor.