Very nice!

Hi John:

When I had my bumpers re-chromed a couple years ago, I didn't really have an issue, but when I got the nuts off, I tapped on them with punch/Phillips screw driver from underneath to get them out.  You might try spraying some PB Blaster or equivalent to loosen them up.  If the nut on one of them is frozen and turns with the screw, you may have to use Channel locks or maybe apply some heat.

Also, I got new carriage bolts at Lowes and had them chromed as well.  When I re-installed, I used rubber washers top and bottom so I wouldn't mess up the chrome on the bumpers.

Ted

Thanks Frank...this makes it easy to figure out.  I think John Fain mentioned that the line from the vacuum tank to the carb should be a flexible line, not metal or copper...I don't know for sure, but the copper line would look nice.  I think you sent me photos of your engine compartment before; I need to find them!

Ted

I love the new look...nice work!

Thanks, Chet...I have the Kingston as well.  I'm just trying to figure out the correct "plumbing" configuration for the lines, including the sediment bowl.  I can see the shut off valve in your photo and I can also see where the bowl directly attached to the tank.

Can anyone tell me if our cars came equipped with a glass sediment bowl attached to (or put in line with before the carb) the vacuum tank?

The few photos I've seen shows some with and some without (mine is without since I'm using a fuel pump instead of the tank) so I'm not 100% sure.  And if the sediment bowl should be there, where/how is it located in line?  In some photos with the bowl, it's hard to tell.

Does anyone have a correct diagram or way that the fuel lines going into and out from the vacuum tank are to be?  And, where the sediment bowl is supposed to be?

I doubt I will ditch the fuel pump, but I'd like to have this information for future reference.

Thanks for your help...

Ted

Thanks! 

Here's my freshly painted (on the motor) Silver Dome head and new plug wires, cap and rotor.  I still have a little more detailing to do.

So Frank, you applied with a brush?  Any particular kind to minimize brush marks?

I will probably spray and use a brush for hard to reach areas since the head will stay on the motor.

Thanks Patrick.  I work for Advance Auto and will most likely pick up something there; I will probably wait for a few more thoughts from others.

All:

Looking to repaint/spray the 'ol Silver Dome head.  Any paticular silver or argent paint that works well and is the correct or close shade?  Let me know what you've used and what works.  I will be doing this while installed on the motor, with a few things removed and a lot of heavy masking everywhere else.

Thanks,

Ted

Must be...although I have a good driving record, I live in Florida and both Grundy and Hagerty require a zero deductible.  That probably explains the higher premiums compared to what you guys are getting.  Either way, saving money with Grundy.

You might be able to use the Model A brackets, which mount the same way.  I made my own since I put a topper on mine as well.

Thanks for the input...no radio to worry about on mine.  The ones on there look to be laid out like the originals would be (90 degree attachment to the plug, no boot, etc.) but they are not the originals.  The are a black wire by (Packard aftermarket).

Also, what is the correct color?  Black?  I thought I read somewhere that an "oak" color (a dark orange) is correct for "early" cars.  How about the size...7mm or 9mm?  Again, I saw something about 9mm for "early" cars as well, but I think that would be to thick to fit through the steel wire loom.

Thoughts on this?  What are your guys using?

Thanks for the information...it may be time to change from Hagerty.  I just got a quote online for American and it was higher than Grundy.  I don't see Silver Wheels (Hagerty Silver Wheels) offered in the states.