Greetings:
Although no issues with running or cooling, I decided to replace all the hoses and clamps on the car. I recently did the top hose and clamps with no issue, now moving on to the bottom assembly. This lower assembly hasn't been off in ages and will be cleaned up and re-painted. Question, the metal hose assembly looks to have a bigger piece at the bottom here added on. I don't know, but I doubt this is the way it came originally. Can someone confirm one way or the other?
I used 2 1/8" hose on top with the correct 2-wire clamps. Going to use the same hose and clamps on the bottom assembly, but had a question about this lower assembly first.
Top hose complete:
Good job Ted,
BTW., my bottom hose doesn't have the metal pipe. I guess over the years it went the way of the dodo. I just have a straight hose from the radiator to the motor.
Looks like the one end of the pipe is brass...I thought this brass end may have been added on but hard to tell/know. I cleaned it up somewhat and will be repainting. I think I may need to add some Permatex when I put on the hose ends to fill in some of the pitting. There were some remnants of Permatex Blue there from before, probably for that reason.
Its added on. Probably a rust repair.
Thanks Dave...Got it all cleaned up and painted gloss black and will be putting it back together tomorrow or Thursday. New hose already cut to fit.
Project complete...will leak test this weekend (At least it looks pretty!)
On my 30-31 Plymouth i had that metal pipe, i went with a straight rubber hose, no issues.
I have the metal section on my 30-U thermosyphon system but there is a by-pass running from it to the upper hose. Car always runs cool but I have no idea what purpose the by-pass is intended to serve. I have always assumed that was the way it was designed until this thread but based on what I am seeing it looks like the previous owner made that set up for some reason. Does anyone know what purpose it was intended to serve?
In a thermal syphon system if you had a pipe going from the upper hose to the lower hose you would be mixing the hot expelled water with the cooler intake water. This might help the engine during extremely cold days. Is this bypass able to be turned on and off.
If you have unidentified holes in cowl on passengers side . It was probable the taps for a cab heater .
No sign of a heater having been installed at any time and there is no shut off. I bought the car from the original owner and one of the reasons he was selling it was the fact that it had no heater. He was quite old and his wife was not well so they needed a newer car. He bought a Plymouth Valiant!
Maybe he tried to install a heater but without a water pump it would not function well. If at all.
Wow a 30u for a Valiant I bet he got a good bit of use out of the old car.
Quick update today. Currently at a car show, but spent two hours this morning putting on 2 inch hose replacing the 2 1/8 inch hose. It was tight, but a much better connection. Everything is good now. Had to use modern worm clamps for now. I do need to find, however, the correct 2 wire hose clamps that will fit my 2 inch hose. The other 2 wire clamps are too big now. Interestingly enough, the 2 1/8 hose for the upper radiator connection is perfectly fine.
What would be the correct size 2 wire clamps for the 2" hose?
I'm thinking one size down from the clamps for the 2 1/8 hose.
Tom gave me clamps for the 2 1/8 hose and they are to big for the 2" hose. You think 1/8 of an inch wouldn't be an issue so there must be a difference with the hose thickness. Very frustrating.
In looking at a couple of Model A parts sites, they say to use 2 3/8" clamps for hoses with 2" inside diameter. I will probably shoot for that size when searching unless I am overlooking something.
If anyone has 4 clamps that will work, please let me know if you'd like to sell. Found some on eBay, but the price plus shipping is ridiculous.
Got these OEM . Shown on 2-3/8" od pipe . Yours for couple buck each plus postage .
(//)
Thanks! I'll take four...I'll PM you.
Ted
Quote from: Russ T. Fender on November 02, 2019, 10:07:44 AM
I have the metal section on my 30-U thermosyphon system but there is a by-pass running from it to the upper hose. Car always runs cool but I have no idea what purpose the by-pass is intended to serve. I have always assumed that was the way it was designed until this thread but based on what I am seeing it looks like the previous owner made that set up for some reason. Does anyone know what purpose it was intended to serve?
Like this? Picture is from an auction car Chet listed.
(https://content.auctionzip.com/listing/3328788/560925786_fl)
Yes that is the way my bypass is set up but on mine the lower connection is made through the metal pipe which has a nipple soldered into it.
Check out what appears to be the hydraulic reservoir. What's that top pipe for ??
(http://www.1948plymouth.info/galley/var/resizes/chetbrz/560925786_fl.jpg)
Also more unrecognizable stuff where the vacuum fuel pump should be.
Just when you might think you have a good handle on what's going on with this car.
I noticed the brake reservoir too...looks like a fuel pump where the vacuum tank should be (looks like my Carter fuel pump I have on my frame or an old AC Delco fuel pump)
Cars like my 30-U that were in daily use from 1930 to 1972 saw lots of modifications just to keep them running. I am trying to undo as much as possible but it is hard to tell exactly what is correct and what is not. There is not a lot of reference material around and even less in the way of pictures that can be referred to for help. Right now I am trying to figure out the wiring harness route and location of support clips. Some are still there but the majority of the components are long gone. That said, my car had an electric fuel pump, replacement master cylinder, missing windshield riser mechanism and mismatched replacement door handles just to name a few of it's issues. Dealing with these issues and the general restoration issues you encounter certainly makes it interesting.
Seems like if the water is not cooled enough not to rise up through the bypass line after a pass thru the radiator a portion of it will do just that and get cooled again by a second pass through the radiator and continue to until the overall temp cools down to below that threshold. Or maybe its just so a portion of the water always gets a second pass to keep the car running cooler?
Quote from: Russ T. Fender on November 06, 2019, 01:54:05 PM
Cars like my 30-U that were in daily use from 1930 to 1972 saw lots of modifications just to keep them running. I am trying to undo as much as possible but it is hard to tell exactly what is correct and what is not. There is not a lot of reference material around and even less in the way of pictures that can be referred to for help. Right now I am trying to figure out the wiring harness route and location of support clips. Some are still there but the majority of the components are long gone. That said, my car had an electric fuel pump, replacement master cylinder, missing windshield riser mechanism and mismatched replacement door handles just to name a few of it's issues. Dealing with these issues and the general restoration issues you encounter certainly makes it interesting.
I feel your pain...
Heay, Racertb . How did those two wire clamps fit on the bottom hoses ? Still have more of that size .
Hi Tom, I haven't put on yet. Had a couple of shows I went to and wanted to wait until after the season here to fool with them. Had no time in between. I'm might drive down to Ormond Beach next weekend for the AACA Show (Turkey Run same weekend in Daytona a few miles south), so it will most likely be a project after Thanksgiving. Thanks for asking, I'll post updated pics once complete.
Ted