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'Shocks' on a '28,'29 or 30U

Started by Old Man, October 23, 2012, 04:48:43 PM

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Old Man

I was rummaging around the site and came across a discussion about shocks. There are no shocks on Q,U or 30Us per se. Hydraulic Delco Remy,single and double acting, shocks came out on the '31 PA. And stayed until about 1937 when Plymouths got 'airplane' type tube shocks like we have today. What the early 4s had was a shock eliminator thing. It's an upside down bent piece of spring steel on the upper side of the leaf springs. It's been a while and I don't remember if it was only on the front half of the spring or not. It was to stop rebound which is what real shocks do. I really doubt they had any effect. They are held under one of the spring clips.          

kimmc

Hey, thanks OM, I didn't know that.  I went right out and looked at my springs ('29 coupe).  There are 2 of these "shock eliminators" on all 4 springs; one is at the front and one at the back of each spring.  (pictures of front springs attached).  I think you will be able to see from the picture that the "shock eliminators" on the right front spring are more flattened than are the shock eliminators on the left front spring (which have more arch in them).  Does this matter?  Is this something that can or should be fixed?  I was thinking I should remove the springs to replace the bushings in the hangers.  Do you recommend that?  How does one remove a spring safely?  I appreciate that you share your experience and knowledge.  I am a complete novice at this.  Thanks.  Kim 

imoore

Thanks for that input i was just out in the shed removing the front shackle pins and i was wondering what those were. Now i know.
The safest way to remove springs is to raise the car up to release spring tension. then put a jack under the end u remove first. remove the pins lower jack. now there is no tension on spring and just remove other end.

I am going though the same process, with should i re bush the springs and well mine weren't that worn. the pins were more worn then the  bushes. So i have just made new pins for the back, but am re using the front pins.

Ian
1928 Q tourer (Holden bodied)
Several vintage stationary engine

kimmc

Thanks Ian.  Removing the springs sounds like an easier job than I thought it would be.  Kim

Old Man

The springs and I would believe these shock eliminators on our old cars are slowly going down to mother earth. I would hazard a guess that all our old cars and trucks are lower because of their springs loosing their arch. I know all of my antiques have 'flat' springs now. In other words no arch left. They can actually start to arch 'backwards' with age. I would suspect these spring steel shocks have lost their arch too. Some more than others.
  If I have to store a car or truck for any length of time I place an axle stand at each of the 4 corners under the frame horns near the shackle. I lift the vehicle up high enough to let the wheels drop down and not touch the floor. This,theoretically, will save what little arch may be left. I'm not alone in doing it. In fact I was told by old guys to do it. I know you would be really surprised if you had your springs rearched. I understand they just rearch the upper 2 or 3 leaves. I had a price of $35 a spring quoted about 3 years ago. But you have to take the springs off and take them to the shop. Quite a job and why I'm yet to do it.         

kimmc

Hi OM.  Interesting info in your last post.  I didn't know springs could be re-arched.  I have some questions about my front springs that maybe you can answer.  I've attached a picture of both the left front (LF) and right front (RF) spring shock eliminators.  You can see the LF has much more arch than the RF shock eliminator.  Even the u-bolts that hold them are slightly different.  Perhaps a new spring or new leaves had to be installed at some time in the past.  What I am really curious about is the wood wedge between the base of the LF spring and the axel.  What's up with that?  And wood???  Doesn't seem to me that would last very long...that's got to be a pretty punishing location for a wood wedge.  So, the real question is "Why"?  Is that an indication that the geometry of the axel or something else is out of alignment?  Any insight you have about this is appreciated.  Thanks.  Kim