Your welcome.  Find any parts for your '29?

Last weekend my generator quit, according to dash ammeter.  After doing research, I decided it was the generator and not the relay (cut-out.)  Changed the relay to my used spare, still no charge.  Decided this was beyond my capabilities and tools.  No meter to read up 20a.  Took it to a shop on Tuesday and the generator ok, but relay bad.  He suggested replacing eltromagnet/points with a diode.  Done.  I'm now getting a constant 12a output, cold or hot.  Will see how this performs on the road.  In the process, I installed a new ground cable battery to frame.  Cleaned all terminals in charging system.  They were a little oxidized.  Yesterday, I cleaned all connections on the CLUM and brake switch.  I should probably do the same for all the lamp fixtures.  Too bad I can't get into the CLUM.  Now to get to my pesky carb, again.

JG  The 38 1/4" is from the split in the sill as indicated by the blue line.  I measured 31 13/16 from the corner of each support bracket, red circle.  With the kick panels in place, I can't measure to the inside of the support bracket on the A pillar.

JG  I'm measuring about 38 1/4 " for the main sill just behind the A pillar.  You can see from the picture the sill appears to be made from 2 pieces with the out side board being curved.  The kick panel is in place and I can't see if the wood is mortised or not.

Here is what Floyd was selling a few years back.  New knobs and cables, but you can see they are a bit different than original.

JG    What body style is your car?  It might make a difference.

Thanks Old Man and Ted.  Really appreciate the picture Ted.  Here is what was in a tube from a U I found in a yard many years ago.

Paper gaskets are supplied with today's re-build kits, so that is what I use.  Had to clean carb yesterday and put a bit of polish to the bowl.

Old Man, thanks for the wire info.  Were the plug terminals straight or right angle?  I have right angle.

Picture shows end of lever out of the fork pocket, no balls in the interlock shaft and the indent in the shaft that was switched.

You're right Old Man, They are dirty!  For some reason I have never been able to get a good seal, bowl to body, or maybe the float level adjusted incorrectly.  Going along fine with no leaks and suddenly it will start.  Have to be in the float/needle valve, but what produces the inconsistency?  Debris in the valve seat I suppose.

Have to laugh.  When Dave first started his engine, he cleaned his carb and reassembled without bowl gasket.  I confidently told him it was sure to leak - ha!  Not a drop!

29U was a Carter RT-08.  Cast in lower base.  Don't know 30U.  RT on your left, carter DRT-08 on right.    frank

Thanks, Des.

Trans update.  Sunday went to pick up neighbor for a jaunt, but didn't make it out of the 'hood!  It slipped into 3rd which stopped the engine.  Stuck in 3rd and no neutral; drove home.  Removed shift assembly for inspection.  Darn thing was assembled incorrectly!  Removed center shaft, only one ball in there doing nothing - supposed to be 2.  Best of all, the other 2 shafts had been switched.  Little wonder I could not find neutral or any gear without crashing.  Forks were never locked in as designed.

Semi-happy ending.  I got $480 back, returned $150 for work that was done, even if not to original state.  Took to previous shop to have it assembled correctly.  He charged it to warranty work so I owed him nothing.  Test drive was satisfactory, but never had grinding when putting it in 3rd.  I hope none of those teeth are broken.  Some decade in the future, I just might check them.

And so it goes....  Think I'll wash it this week.
frank

Hi folks,

My shift lever has been a problem for years and was getting steadily worse.  Time to get it fixed and it was for an ungodly sum of $500 plus and it still isn't quite right, but maybe it's me just getting accustomed to it.

You may recall the engine was missing earlier this summer when it got hot.  Don't know if I identified the root cause, but here is what I found/did.  Visually inspected spark at each plug.  Blue-white at 1, 2, 4; yellow white at 3.  Put in temp wire to 3, spark now looks like the others.

Noticed a huge amount of carbon spitting out of tailpipe.  Each plug was covered in carbon like it was flocked with the stuff!  Amazing the poor thing would start as easily as it did.  Cleaned plugs, checked the gap, .027" as in manual.  No more carbon out of tailpipe!  Checked plug this morning and it was a nice light brown as I think it should be.  Believe there is still a gremlin in the carb, but that will probably be a project for next summer.

This winter I plan on replacing ignition wiring.  These appear to be black rubber with AMERICAN STANDARD PRODUCTS stenciled in white.  Anyone know if these were original?  I have remnants of wire that is a lacquer coated dark green with a red cross tracer.  These are the only wiring not replaced with new since ownership.

I had my car for 50 years as of last month.  It's been fun and frustrating and will continue to be.  Wonder if it will get to the point of maintain instead of repair - probably not.  Suppose the next part to go will be the distributor base.  Should I buy one now??  lol

Hope everyone is having a good time driving about as the summer draws to an end, here anyway.  Recalling what happened to SteveG, please be careful with old and modern cars.

frank

Steve,

Terrible news.  Hope you weren't injured.

frank

Started just a bit ago and running just fine at all rpm.  Maybe it doesn't like to be warm.  It was only 85 Saturday afternoon and the radiator felt relatively cool 1/3 from bottom as I believe it should.  (1/2 water 1/2 ethylene glycol)  I must take for longer drive and try to duplicate problem and then see what I can discover.

Chet, about that filter - there is none except the wire screen in the strainer cap of the carburetor.  No sediment bowl either.  This tank has a right angle shut-off vale screwed to bottom of tank.  This would have to go to install a bowl I have, but should see what's available.  Wondering if a filter could be rigged between fuel line and vacuum tank?  Problem might be not enough vacuum to get past filter?  Dave has been telling me to drain and flush gas tank since last summer.  He's right, of course, but the drain plug will not budge and haven't attempted to remove fuel line.

Unfortunately no pictures.  Everyone knows about best intentions, that's what happened to my camera.  Next time I'll have to put it in front of the door so I will kick it when I try to leave!  When working, I used written plans every day.  Obviously need to return to that practice.  Since retiring, I have intentionally slowed my pace.  I don't wear a watch anymore.

Thanks for the interest and suggestions.     frank