Very perplexing issue our cars.

First in answer to Franks comments: 

Frank, I agree with getting the roof installed along with any metal work that needs to be fabricated like the top metal door frame pieces.  My original pieces are mostly painted rust.  No.., the wheels are a project in themselves.  Just ask Ted. What a great job he did.  My wheels will just have to wait, right now I have bigger fish to fry. 

As far as the ambiguity of our cars go I have to think Dave's car is my standard at this point.  I am a member of the Delaware Valley Region and one of the other members is a former POC president who owns an original 29 Plymouth 4 door sedan.  Really nice guy Joe Hernandez.  His car hasn't moved in awhile and he said that when the weather gets warmer we could dig it out of the garage so I can get my eyeballs on yet another example of a 29 Plymouth.

Below is a picture of my dash from a work effort I haven't posted yet.  In sanding and working on the dash I believe the Blue that is coming up is the same blue overspray I found on the remains of some original wood pieces.  Can I definitively say that someone else didn't paint this car Blue before it was repainted Red, maybe or maybe it is the original color.  Who can really say.  Below the blue was a very stubborn, porous & gummy black.  This is the same I found on the firewall.  Primer or topcoat ?



I think as time goes on being 100% correct is impossible but getting 85% right might be attainable.  The main and most important thing is to be 120% happy with what you have.  I will have to read over the POC judging guide. The jury is still out but if I am not convinced I will comply to general agreement unless something other than that makes me happy.

, Chet...

Hi Frank et al,

We got back yesterday from our trip to Pittsburg to see Paul's Plating.  I am having the front and rear bumpers, radiator surround, and the headlight buckets re-chromed.  I am also having the headlight buckets re-engraved with the manufacturing marks.   Cost $5,650  This includes repairing one of the headlight rings which needs to be soldered.

To add to my financial stress I spoke with the painter today and his work seems to be the least expensive.   I am going to try Maaco.   Before I add anything more to the car I want to get the exterior painted.  Then I will be putting things back for the last time.  Paint only approximately $1,972.30 for two tone paint job. Plus any additional body work.

No pain no gain.  The good news is that the wife seems to be into the program.

PS...   Are we sure that the firewall and dash and door sills were Black and not the body color ?  Any & all Comments Please.

I want to go with my car's original color...  Marine Blue  So the next step is to prep the car for paint.

Cheers, Chet...

This is probably heresy to most but I have never changed brake fluid as a maintenance item.  Only if there was a problem with the brakes like a soft pedal and only after bleeding didn't fix it, but the latter has never happened.  Bleeding seems to always fix it.  I guess if you bleed the lines enough you have effectively replaced the fluid.

Don't know if it is right or wrong just me,  Chet..

Side Note:  With all of my old cars the brakes are the first thing I fix which usually involves replacing lines, cylinders, and rebuild the master.  So after all that new fluid is normal for me but not an ongoing maintenance item.

Count me in, Chet...

Rich,

That is the way the original harness was run, I believe this bracket is original and correct for your car and mine.  I just don't happen to have this bracket or if I do, I don't remember removing it.  Possible, maybe having a senior moment.  In my case I am not sure how I will handle this since I am dealing with 5 additional wires for signal flashers.   At this time using this bracket doesn't seem practical for me.  The new harness would be better positioned down the firewall in the direction of the steering column.  Here it would tie into the front light harness and the rear light harness.  Wire connections would be hidden by the frame.  There is always some minor trade off for safety additions.  Not there yet, the engine is still in the shop so its another thing to ponder.

Chet...

Quote from: frankp on February 28, 2018, 08:56:30 AM
...  On to the top next?

frank

Frank,

I'm not sure what's next.  Really can't close up the top until the dash and steering wheel are set back in.  Doing bits and pieces of odds and ends in between the crappy weather days.  Might do some wiring at least the stuff that will not get damaged if I put the motor back in.

That begs the question "What about paint and body work ?"  I'll say one thing.., you can spend money on a project like this faster than you can think about it.  I thought boats were a hole in the water you throw money into.  Sorry never miss an opportunity to complain.

So while I try to figure out what's next I am gathering up my chrome parts and delivering them to Paul's Chrome Plating in western PA. on Monday.  $$$      Nothing like a long drive to sort things out.

Chet...

Hay Ted,

I have the same issue with the vacuum fuel pump in that when my car was running it was using an electric pump.  My vacuum canister has two pin holes in the bottom which I need to solder and hopefully get it working again.  I restored/preserved it a number of years ago but never made it functional.  Maybe soon...

I believe Tod Fitch mentioned that some guys leave the electric pump in the fuel line and use it to prime the vacuum pump if needed.  I just don't remember if that was with these vacuum pumps or the regular mechanical pump in the PA/PB.  I was thinking of doing this on my boat just in case the mechanical pump goes south I could switch over to the electric pump in an emergency.  Of course more projects then time to work on and get done.

Chet...

Ted,

I have pictures of your engine compartment.  The problem that I am facing is in addition to the regular wiring, I had Yn-Z add wiring for a 7 wire flasher system.  This adds 5 additional wires coming out of the firewall's main harness.  The end of this harness mates up with the harness going to the front lights as well as the harness going to the rear lights.  All this in the area of the steering wheel switch assembly.  I will have to locate the main harness to mate with the other two and have the wiring for the horn go to the horn from the steering wheel switch rather the other way around.  I think this is pretty much how my car was when I stripped all this out.

I am sure that Dave's picture is truly original but the Yn-Z harness with the additional wiring doesn't work with that bracket.  Probably wouldn't have been a problem if I didn't have the 5 additional wires.  I think a minor deviation from original for the safety that is added by the flasher system.  After all I like driving my cars and having the flashers is definitely a plus.  I am using bumper mounted fog lights for the front flashers and removable rear bumper lights for the back. 

It should come out nice without having to mount an additional rear tail light.  Wing nuts on the rear bumper lights and off they come and the car's rear single light will work as designed.

Do you have a flasher system, installed in your car ?

Chet...

Basically Who else has this bracket ?

Thanks Dave for all the photos. 

I have noticed some difference in how the harness was run across the firewall from another example vs. Dave's.  I would greatly appreciate another photo showing the firewall of a car with original wiring.  Just looking for a consensus especially on the visible wiring in the engine compartment.  I know I am splitting hairs but I only want to do this once.  I have a pretty good idea just need conformation.

Tks, Chet...

Nice Picture, It explains a lot.

The entire exhaust system of the 29 Sedan seems to be a hard ridged mount.  Most exhaust systems float and allow for some play and engine to frame movement.  The 29 engine is virtually hard mounted even with the rubber motor mounts, so I guess it doesn't matter very much.  Anyone have any thoughts on the matter.  Maybe the mounts should not be tightened around the pipe to allow for some minor movement even frame flex ?

Thanks Tom.

Thanks Dave

Great information.

Anyone have a picture of the tank bracket.  No rush.  Not there yet.

Thanks John

How far is the pipe from the gas tank. The gas line is also on that side.  Any problems with that.

Quote from: Articifer Tom on February 19, 2018, 08:58:07 PM
You can see hanger on the above drawing . It is on tank cross frame and the down curve of pipe . Seen in other pics some where on AACA site .

Tom, I am not understanding what drawing you are referring to (is it in the lube Diag.).  Also I searched the AACA forum for 29 Plymouth muffler or tail pipe and found nothing.  Maybe I didn't query correctly.  Could you please post a link to the info you are talking about.  Many Thanks !

John, I worked with a muffler guy and we installed a soft support on the passenger side frame to allow the tail pipe to exhaust in the rear of the wheel well like a Model A.  I am not saying this is right or wrong just functional.   I didn't find any info on how this was handled in the original design.  When I got my car the muffler pipe exhausted before the rear axle.  I know that was not original just expedient.  I would be very interested in any info on this topic.  Especially how the exhaust pipe gets around the rear axle and gas tank.