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I need some advise...

Started by kimmc, September 20, 2012, 01:03:50 AM

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kimmc

OK...I forgot the sketch...here it is.  Also, I've attached a picture of the floor detail beneath the cowl and a picture of a shim between the wood and the steel frame channel.  More later.  Kim

29roadster


Hi Kim  This is great info, invaluable, I have been trying to get information on the chassie timber and looking at your pictures is going to get me started on mine, hope you don't mind me annoying you.  Cheers Glenn           

kimmc

Hi Glenn.  Heck no, I don't mind questions and requests.  Working with other Plymouth owners is a big part of the fun for me.  There will be times when I'll need help from all of you too.  I'll keep posting pictures, so if you have a request, post it here or send me an email.  Your roadster will probably have similar wood construction to my coupe so I can probably help you with the wood above the chassis deck too.  Right now I am having difficulty removing the hinge pins on the trunk lid.  They screw out and I can't get either one to budge at all...yet.  I've been treating both with a rust breaker daily for a week but that doesn't seem to help.  I'm reluctant to put heat to it because of all the wood beneath the metal.  Anyone have a solution?  Also, I've been doing a little research on the internet regarding chemical wood stabilizers and fillers to treat the wood around the perimeter of the top; there are lots of cracks and nail holes (pic attached of front piece above sun visor).   Anyone have any experience with this?  Thanks.  Kim

SDGlenn

Reference your comment about the hinges on the trunk.  I was having the same problem, what I did?  I found a flat screw driver bit that fit my impact driver. Ground the sides of the bit small enough to fit the slot on the pin hinge.  Set the driver at a real "low" setting, and adjusted at needed. Rocked it back and forth a lot of times, it finally came loss. Give it a try, try not let the bit slip in the slot.  Hope this helps.
Take care
SDGlenn
SDGlenn

kimmc

SDGlenn.  Thanks!  I have not done that.  I'll give that a try and let you know.  The trunk lid is one of the last things I have to take off the body and then I can finally start working on fixing stuff.  I worked on cleaning the dirt and grease off the rear end last night...I actually found a differential under all that mung & graudoo!

kimmc

Hi all.  Some asked for more detail about the wood framing in the rear of my coupe. I took some time to measure and sketch the rear wood detail.  The sketch may be confusing but the pictures may help.  If you need further explanation or additional pictures, don't be shy.  Remember, mine is a coupe so sedans will be different.

Attach 1: Sketch of detail: this starts near the vertical wood support beneath the L rear corner of the cab area and gives much more detail of the rear-most wood. (this area is near the bottom of my previous sketch).  This sketch includes more detail of the rear wood framing and the wood framing across the rear of the car (just below the bottom of the trunk opening.

Attach 2: Left rear corner of car; timber on right is extension of main timber from firewall to this back corner.  Rear-most wood floor board sits on this.  Butting up to it on its right is 3.25" wide piece of oak that runs across the back between the 2 main L & R timbers.  Sitting vertically on this is a 2.75" high piece with dado that extends between the metal drip edge of the trunk opening. The dado holds the rear edge of the back wood floor board.  On top of that is a 1.25 thick piece that extends to the widest trunk opening.  This piece holds the latch mechanism and its rear-most edge follows the contour of the back metal piece (curved).  The wood piece ( 1.75 x 1 5/8 inches x 48" long) that supports the curve of the trunk opening above the rear fender is shown butted against the wide flat piece; it then goes up to the top of the picture and out of view.

Attach 3: picture of what the sketch shows (much dirt obscures things) but the wood pieces and steel frame hump are apparent.

The sketch and my descriptions may not be clear or easy to follow so send me a post if you would like more clarification or more pictures.  Kim

Old Man

This is the stuff you want to use on rotted wood. As it says it mixes like water,it does, and can be poured into wood and sets up to a biege plastic in about 5 minutes. You don't want to mix very much at any time because it does set fast. This container was about $50. I used it on dryed out hard wood and it worked wonders. Because of it I did not have to remake several pieces. I just used masking tape as a dam to stop it from running off. The tape just pulls off it like it would on paint. It comes with a can of talcum powder which you can use as a filler. When you run out you can buy kid's talcum powder at the drug store. It's on the internet. You can also repair cracked plastic knobs but you would have to paint the knob in it's original color. Black gear shift knobs can be saved with it. It also works wonders on rust. If you have a piece of metal that you can't clean all the rust off of and you are afraind of removing too much metal, you can pour or quickly brush Polyall on the remaining rust and it will seal the surface forever. Unlike paint it will not let go as it wicks right into the rust and underlying surface and then hardens. Then you just paint over it in chassis black for a finish. You have to buy throw away brushes at a dollar store because the Polyall hardens in the brush as well. I think it's so good because of it's thinness. It's like water and flows into places fiberglass resin and body fill can't. Fantastic stuff.     

SDGlenn

This is one old man agreeing with the "Old Man".  This stuff is good.  Try it, it will make a believer out of you.
Thanks Guys, and "Old Man". (this old man couldn't remember the name of the product.)
SDGlenn
SDGlenn

kimmc

Old Man and SDGlenn:  Thanks so much guys!  I was researching stuff on the internet to figure out what to use.  To have 2 recommendations helps so much!  I like the idea that this is water-thin and will soak into the places that need stabilization.  I'm going to get on the internet check this stuff out and place an order.  I will still need to re-make some pieces but not so much now.  Thanks again for the help.  Regards, Kim

kimmc

Is there some one out there that restores the Plymouth firewall placque and the Fedco dash placque (pictures attached).  I am looking for a professional job but am interested in hearing DIY or other options.  Thanks.  Kim

chetbrz

Kim,

I got this repro from somebody but at the moment I can't remember who.  It is for my 1948 Plymouth.

I will try to look through my old records and let you know. 



Chet...
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

kimmc

Thanks Chet.  I appreciate it.  Today was a work day.  I decided to take advantage of the last of our warm weather (supposed to be 20 degrees cooler on Monday).  I rolled the coupe out of the shop and began to degrease and pressure wash it.  First I blasted everything I could from the top side then I put it up on the lift and worked on it some more.  I sprayed it with degreaser from a garden type pump-up sprayer, let it sit a while, and then hit it with the pressure washer again.  Good thing it was warm because I got soaking wet.  When I was ready to quit, I sprayed all the stubborn greasy spots using a couple of cans of oven cleaner from the Dollar Store.  I'll let those marinate over night then finish washing tomorrow.  It's looking really good.  The heavy dirt and grease is gone. Pictures attached.  Kim

SDGlenn

Thanks, I never thought about oven cleaner, hope it works for you, better than the scraper and wire brush maybe. lol  Looking good.

SDGlenn
SDGlenn

kimmc

I used heavy duty degreasers on everything first (Purple Power and Citrus degreasers); the frame, axels, backing plates, springs, everything was heavily coated with a mix of dirt and grease/oil.  Once I got the heavy stuff blasted off, I used the oven cleaner on the residue that remained.  It works good and only costs $1 a can at the Dollar Store.  Even so, I probably sprayed degreaser on everything about 4 times followed by pressure wash.  Then I used the oven cleaner and pressure washed that.  Today I hit it again; there was still gunk coming off.  I decided I would have to pressure wash the interior too.  There was so much dirt coming out of every crevice.  The only thing I didn't wash was the top wood.  After I was satisfied that it was as good as I could get it, I used an air nozzle to blow all the water off the wood.  I figured a little water wouldn't hurt it; the wood floor and support structure are exposed to water, mud, snow, etc. from the bottom side.  The chassis looks pretty good now; you can see the original black paint on the frame and the backing plates are clean!  It will much nicer to work on the chassis, wheels, etc now.  I moved it to my garage where it will spend the winter (a Calif. winter); I'll pull the wheels and refinish them, do the brakes, and get the split rims re-plated with cadmium (original finish on mine), repair the wood, etc.  I found an interesting item today.  There is a bracket on each side that secures the cab to the frame on the latch side of the door.  These are cast brass! (magnet test).  The brackets beneath the cowl on the hinge side of the door are steel. Who knew!  Pictures attached.  Old Man & SDGlenn; I've ordered the PolyAll to repair the wood.  Thanks again for that tip.  Kim

29roadster

Hi Kim  Gee you done a good job on cleaning up the ol girl, At the rate your working she will be back on the road for spring.
   good luck and the pics are great sketches are a big help. Glenn