Chet,
If you need information on the curve of the sill wood, i have a new set of sill plates. The outer edge of the sill plates approximates the outer edge and curve of the outer wood edges.  If that would help, I could trace the sill plate edges and send to you.
I rebuilt my car's woodwork in 1974 and the sill wood had to be replaced. the edges were not in good shape, but there was enough left to figure the approx shape, and along with the sill covers I was able to get the curve shape good enough using a manual drawknife. 
Your wood plan sounds real good.  All I could do at 16 was use two each 3/4 inch pine boards treated with coprotox and sealed with marine varnish.  It worked and is still in good shape.

Chet,
The center pillar bracket is mortised into the floorboards and the bolt goes through to the frame.
The front pillar support bracket is also mortised into the floorboards so it sits flush (makes the floormat lay flat.)

On my car there is about 3/8 inch spacing from the firewall to the fender.  However, I do not think that can be adjusted because both are bolted to the frame.  The bracket behind the front of the firewall has a bolt that goes through the frame. 

As for the space between the back and the gas tank bracket (frame), on my car it is approx 3/8 inch.  But, this height depends on the thickness of the rubber pads the body sits on.  For my car, I used two layers cut from and old conveyor belt, each about 5/16 thick, for a total of about 5/8 thick.  That was 40+ year ago.  I have no way of knowing if that is correct, it was they best I could do in 1974, and even then the original pads were 45 years old and I assume squashed somewhat.  I have know way of knowing what the original pad thickness was.

Vintage Reproductions send me an outside handle that is a perfect match and fit, except that the square shaft was a few thousandths too thick, but that was easily rectified by filing a little.

The cost was $150 in Australian dollars.  My total cost including shipping was $134.30. The part number is CHY-026.  They also have it in a locking handle for $350, part number CHY-027.

Vintage Reproductions is located in Australia.
Web site: http://www.vintageandclassicreproductions.com/
US Representatives for purchases: Tom and Cindy Meyers at:  myersedp@aol.com
Ph: 734-856-1207

They can also reproduce our hubcaps, but we would need a good set for them to use as a model and a commitment for orders for 16.

That has been a mystery to me.  All I know is the vague picture in the instruction handbook.

I purchased running board matting from Restoration Supply Company.  Jeff Buton told me this was correct for the 29 Plymouth.  The part number is RUB020.  Order a 4 feet piece.  This comes in 48 inch width, so a 4 foot piece will actually be enough to make two full sets.  It also is sold in 36 inch widths.

See attached pages from catalogs.  That is Jeff's handwriting in the RSC page.

Restoration Supply Company, www.restorationstuff.com   760.741.4014

It is also sold by Restoration Specialties and Supply Co.  Their part number is MAT018.
http://www.restorationspecialties.com/
814-467-9842

PS - does the Corrugated Mat - Vinyl look correct for the floor mats?

Thanks!

Will do on the part number and picture.  I am traveling for work and will post the information when I get back home.

I can take some measurements when I get home (traveling now for work), but since my frame is slightly bent, not sure my measurements would be useful.

I'll have to get back to him on the size of the bases.  Otherwise Mike Butters handle dimensions matched what you stated.

BTW - Regarding running board rubber and floor mats, I found what Jeff Button states is the correct running board matting.  It is sold by Restoration Supply Co in California.  I do not know what the correct floor mat style is.  From the picture in the Instruction Book it looks like plain ribs.  I haven't got a response from the Tech.

All,
I spoke to Mike Butters again today.  He is going to make me a set for my 29 Ply 4 door.  They will be Nickle.  It will be about 8 weeks.  He uses an alloy of zinc, copper and aluminum.  He says it is durable and is easy for him to work with as for casting.  He can chrome them or do them in  nickle.   These are for the standard 3/8 inch square drive.  He drills the 1/8 pin hole.  He said he would work up a price for a set of 4-4-2 (4 door, 4 window, and 2 T-handles).  I'll let you know.

I am working with him on the escutcheons. Will let you know about those.

BTW - I am not purchasing a windshield handle because my headliner was installed too low years ago and I have to use a T-handle there too.

Are the 30U handles the same as the 29U?

I have been told that Marge Verdone passed away.  I have not been able to find out if anyone has continued her work.

Don Sommer works in Stainless, if that is preferred. 

Frank,
Thanks.  This is a bit frustrating.  The Judging Guide for 28-39 states for "Internal Trim and Instruments" states, "Nickel-plated parts should be nickel" but does not state which parts those are.  No mention is made for the 28-29.  However, for 34, 36 and 37 the guide does state,"Interior bright work must be nickel plated."  I guess if the 1937 had nickle interior trim, the 28-29s would too.  Thanks!

Also - the guide elsewhere states for the 28-29,"Pin stripe outlined wood graining on the sedan cowling."  I have not seen this.

I'll do the same - thanks!

I am sure he can do them in nickle if that's what you prefer. We did discuss using nickel or chrome.  I read an article recently about when they started switching from nickle to chrome, I believe it was in Skinned Knuckles. It is not clear to me whether the 29 Plymouth interior handles were nickle or chrome.  I think the club will allow either, do you know?

The normal process for a triple coat is copper followed by nickle followed by Chrome.  I think if you want nickle they just stop after the nickle coat.

I do not know what type metal he uses, but the cost includes triple chrome plating.  He does not do them in stainless steel.

One last (I think) pinstripe question - when the stripes reach the door knob escutcheon, does the strip appear to go under the escutcheon, or does it stop short and pick up again on the other side?  In other words, should I remove the door handles before the pinstriping is done?