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Messages - 29UJohn

#211
Wow.  Thanks. My running boards don't look that that.  They are smooth on top and thick on the sides.  No slots and no room for the clips even if I cut in the slots. Maybe my running boards were recovered with another layer of metal.  The inside and end trim pieces match the old trim I have, but I never had the outer trim and there is no indication of there ever being any. 
#212
How did you guys attach the outer moulding to the running board?  Brad sent little clips that he said go into slots on the top outer edge of the running board.  I do not see any slots on my running board for the clips to go into.  Considering using a few small rivet screws on the outer edge.
#213
General Discussion / Windshield weatherstripping Rubber
January 23, 2015, 01:21:41 AM
Does anyone have a source they would recommend for new windshield weatherstrip rubber?  I bought some years ago and the bottom seal worked great but the side pieces did not have any felt in them so the windshield stuck to them and would not slide up and down.  Mr Sapp wrote and article in the Bulletin a while back that seemed to indicate he had a similar problem but implied he was able to find another supplier that was satisfactory.
#214
Wow, interesting that you all did not glue it down.  I did not consider that option.  Does it move much when driving?

40 years ago I bought generic running board mat with black cement.  It has held fast, but I want to replace the mats and moulding.  I do not know what that glue was I used.

The new molding came in today.  Jeff Buton recommended Brad Landoll (he advertises in Skinned Knuckles Mag).  It is excellent and correct.  email: blandoll@hotmail.com

The matting I am ordering from Restoration Supply Company in California:  http://www.restorationstuff.com/
It is item number RUB015.  Jeff Buton said it is a great match.  I do not know if it is the same for the 30 or not.

John
#215
I want to put new mats on the running board on my 1929 Plymouth.  What is the best adhesive to use?
#216
General Discussion / Re: Paint Scheme questions
December 29, 2014, 09:39:22 PM
Thanks guys!

Frank,  I would appreciate the pictures.

Chet,
I have been in contact with both Earl and Jeff and they have been very helpful, but I am also interested to know about members cars.  I and am interested in pictures showing paint and other features, especially if the car is original or restored to original.
#217
General Discussion / Re: Paint Scheme questions
December 29, 2014, 09:31:45 PM
Frank,
Thanks - I would appreciate the pictures.
John
#218
General Discussion / Re: Paint Scheme questions
December 27, 2014, 10:46:58 PM
Chet,
Thanks.  Mainly I am interested in other 28-29 Plymouth owners car's paint schemes.

The Judging guide helps, but it leaves many questions unanswered. For example, it states that one will be penalized if the pinstriping is not correct, but what is correct?

It also mentions, "Pin stripe outlined woodgraining on the sedan cowling."  I was not aware that the 1929 Sedan had woodbraining on the cowling.  Where exactly is this pinstripe?

Also, the running board and floor mats - we are penalized if the pattern is not correct, but what is correct?  Not complaining, but it would be great if there were pictures of what right looks like. But, since there is very little documentation on our early Plymouths, we just have to do the best as we know it.

#219
General Discussion / Paint Scheme questions
December 26, 2014, 08:53:28 PM
After 40 years I plan to repaint my 1929 Plymouth.  I would like to hear from some other owners on a few color scheme questions.

1) Is the visor on your car solid black, or the color of the body?

2) Is the moulding on the lower edge of the body the color of the body, or the color of other mouldings, such as the one down the center? 

3) What about the moulding in the outer edge of the hood?


   
#220
I am planning to refresh my car somewhat and have a few questions:

Should beaded fender welt be used between the rear fender and the body?

Should the tail lite bucket be painted or chrome?
#221
I sanded the brake shoes on the front left wheel and swirl sanded the drum.  The car no longer pulls to the left but brakes smoothly while staying  straight ahead.
Thanks!
#222
I am in Huntsville in North Alabama.  Found out there are a few guys at my office that o wood working, and one works with hickory.  He suggested I obtain a block of close straight grain hickory and store it by the car for a few months so it will acclimate to the humidity.  Then he can make a replacement spoke at his shop and install in one day.  I may try that.  I would have to cut all the bolts off since they are peened. Not sure if I can reuse them or find replacements.
#223
General Discussion / Re: Distributor Play
August 03, 2014, 07:42:00 PM
The 29 distributor has a semi-automatic advance with weights and springs, so there will be movement.
#224
Does anyone know of a person that makes replacement wood spokes?  I need to either replace a spoke or replace the entire wheel.  My 29 Plymouth has 20 inch artillery wheels.
#225
Old Man,
I think you are right.  10 years ago I had the drums turned and the shoes relined.  The brakes worked fine after that for many years.   The recent  problem started after I had the mater cylinder rebuilt and adjusted all the brake shoes.  I thought maybe I didn't do a good job adjusting the shoes.  I later pulled the right side wheels and checked and roughed up the shoes some.  I will have to do the left side next chance I get. 
John