Pictures! Maybe some day I'll get far enough to worry about the details like this. From my 29. They are just a touch a longer than 3/4 inch.

I measured the mirrored spare believed to be from a 28. They are of the same design and operate the exact same way, tolerances should be the same. I pushed the mounting surface tight against my workbench, then pulled the shaft out and used a straight edge to mark. Then pushed it in, marked again, then measured. It came out to about 1/32nd of an inch. Very little movement. I also took pictures of how far the gear traveled in the housing, visually it reflected the measurement and collar movement. This base turns freely and does not have the weathered damage, I have seen on others. What does the inside of the housing look like? How far does the drive gear walk when you are pushing and pulling the shaft? I would take the shaft out and make sure the roll pin is holding it where it needs to be. See my attached pictures, hope it helps.

Pulled tight out

Pushed tight in. If you look close ypu can see the difference.

It's funny you bumped this thread today, I was just getting ready to revive it.

If you look at the first picture on the first page of this thread, you will see I have a distributor that is a mirror image of the one the 29's use and it is in very good shape. I will dig it out and check that one. I also plan on pulling the one I had made soon, to see how its doing, check for wear etc. We can reference that as well.

Quote from: racertb on February 07, 2015, 04:44:05 PM
Dave:

I have a question regarding your replicated distributor drive housing.  Can you tell me, or do you remember, how much play (if any) there was with the drive gear?  Is it in the housing fairly flush and no "back and forth" play?

The reason I'm asking is that my timing keeps jumping and I believe my problem lies in the play with my distributor drive and/or my distributor.  I think it's more my drive play, which is about 1/16" which allows the drive to move back and forth.  I believe if I close this gap with a shim or two, it might help and keep the drive in one position while turning freely.

Please let me know if you can.

Ted

Now I notice thats the only car listed in miles, rest in kilometers lol

Someone posted it on my YouTube page.

Ahhhh it would be nice to get a set of levers for the lights and throttle. I did score a horn on my way out of the threshing show!

http://waynesautoworldltd.com/cars.html#_self

First car on the page. Any takers............................................

Thanks.

It got more attention than I anticipated, barely off the trailer and I had guys coming by. I guess it looks like it has a story to tell and they are interested in hearing it! 

Got an oil leak to fix that took a few days to show itself. Other than that and the radiator, shes mechanically ready to run.

Well I did nothing, but plumb in the fuel pump and run it. Seems to work. Have not run it a lot as it is not quite road legal yet, so any stumbles or hesitates could be related to carb and timing tuning as well. (with I have tinkered with very minimally) Seems to run good. I may just do the gas plumbing to look stock, and continue to use the pump. Seems like it maybe more reliable than the vacuum cans.

This is what I bought in a panic.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Fuel-Pump-6V-Plymouth-1932-1931-1930-1929-1928-can-be-assist-or-primar-/400754723854?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d4ed7cc0e&vxp=mtr

I plan on doing one tomorrow night.  I'll let you know where I'm at.  59,300 on the clock and a broken speedo cable sometime long before I got it.

Thanks. Hope it helps some guys out, or at least makes them less afraid to tackle something they where reluctant to take on.

So you can say with certainty the carb don't like 4 PSI? Looks to be quite a bit different then the carter I have.

The only regulator that I have on hand, came with a Holley blue fuel pump with is too large. Since the pump I bought is suppose to be internally regulated, I may try just try choking it down and seeing how it responds.

Well I'm getting closer. Brakes are in, but not juiced.  Remember reply #16 ? Well the driver side rear axle is out, and the outer bearing was gone. Not even a sign of a roller left in the tube. ( I suspect from a previous inspection by someone, scooped out the wreckage) This damaged the inside bearing cup, which I had to have pressed off anyway, to measure/identify the bearing for replacement. So I have ordered all new cups and bearings since it is apart.

I'll post modern part numbers, the shop and cost if you guys want. I hope to cross reference that felt axle oil seal. Passenger side looks like it leaks, will be a winter project.
So I'll scramble to get this rig rolling, play with it for 3 weeks and then rip it all down again lol At least its easy.........................

I intend to update with pictures, tools and techniques but it takes time to pull them off the phone, host them and post them. I see I have some broken links to fix on the previous page as well.

Well I believe I finally have collected enough brass fittings to plumb any configuration I need. I am going to pull the fitting out of the tank and plumb everything up to the carb in rubber and see if I can get it to work. (Regulate properly) Going to try and do some of it tonight as, my deadline is approaching rapidly. Still have to get the tank flushed as well...........................

I brought them a box of rubble a week and a half ago, picked up these parts today.







Still using the original hardware


All parts where machined and sleeved with stainless. installation will start tomorrow...........

Found a new brake reservoir..........



I'll make it work..............

Dash is complete as it should be. Car runs with the original coil. Generator and ammeter have been wired back into the circuit and with a short test everything appears to be working, get a discharge when cranking and when the coil is keyed on. Also shows charging up to around 10,11 while revving. That is all the wiring I need to function for my goal of the Threshing show. All accessory's will remain out until rewired. 2 1/2 weeks remain!!