Hi Gary,

you raise a good point about the tyre pressures for tyres made with the materials and technology 85 years ago as compared to the pressures needed for tyres made now with modern materials and technology, not to mention we are generally driving on road conditions far superior to that around when the cars were new. Best to stick to the current manufacturers recomendations.

Regards

GaryS

Hi Ian,

Following up on our conversation on Sunday about reconditioning your Carter carby, the following web pages should help you with various bits of information.

http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Carter-Brass-Bowl-Specifications_ep_500.html

http://50548845d46b1bc6e137-8d8dca8446f5c097d96ad864efdc8410.r40.cf2.rackcdn.com/carter_brass_bowl.pdf


http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Carter-Brass-Bowl-153S_ep_498.html

GaryS

Ian,

the website is http://cowboyjohnsautoparts.com/ and his email is johnplaskanantique@hotmail.com he also has vac tank kits if you are after one of those. he's not in Texas he is in Florida. His name (cowboy John) confused me.

Sunday is the children's Christmas picnic at Rokeby (at the Sports ground) hosted this year by the Warragul car club. Always a good day and not far from your new address. Details are in the November Newsletter. If you didn't receive it see the electronic copy at http://www.dvhcc.com.au/images/Nov13mag.pdf


GaryS

Hi Ian,

Glad to hear you were able to get a Brass bowel carby. Did you find it in OZ or O/S. I recieved a brass bowel carby kit from Texas a couple of weeks ago. All up with postage to OZ it cost $45US.
Will you be at Rokeby on Sunday? If so I'll take it with me so you can see whats in it.

GaryS

Sorry, My mistake

The winged radiator Caps are made by another person in NZ, not Dennis.

below is the ad for the radiator caps.

"Reproduction Winged Radiator cap. I have a mould and can have them cast in bronze and chromed. these fit 1928 and 1929 Plymouth and also Chrysler. Chris Duffy New Zealand email chris1929@xtra.co.nz"

GaryS

Hi Des,
I found the contact details for the guy in NZ that makes Plymouth tail lights.  Below is part of one of his ads from one of the web sites.

I believe he also makes the brackets for the taillights and also makes the winged radiator caps.

Maybe if you contact him you can list the prices of the parts on this site for the other forum members.

"1928 - 1931 Plymouth parts for sale Taillight bodys 1928 31. chromed 1928-31 Plymouth , Chrysler , Dodge, Desoto , Durant, Graham . these Bodys are made of Brass with brass studs & nuts chromed . also ready for paint if required . available in singles or pairs Left or right nothing of these lights are made of steel except the front screws are polished stainless steel. Bezels are made of brass & chromed . lenses are made of glass with the names carved into them . The electrics are NOS utilux double contact with 18watt / 6 watt bulbs also NOS ..
Please email me  s.d.gooch@paradise.net.nz ..Please email me with any questions and for Photo's.. I am based in Christchurch New Zealand and a member of the  Canterbury Vintage Car Club . Can answer any questions about them as i make  them ... Kind regards Dennis"

Regards
GaryS

Thanks Chet,

have thought of similar reasons for the tyre creeping when inflated at the tyre manufacturers recommended 32PSI. The tyres have been on the rims at least 7 years so it's not a lubricating fluid type of issue. As you say maybe the inside of the rim is just too smooth. I didn't have any plans of removing the front wheels from the rims at this stage, but I have just bought 2 Firestones this week for the rear. I will be replacing the rear tyres in a few weeks.
Maybe I'll get a clue to what's happening to the front when I see the inside of the rear rims.

GaryS

I am running Firestone on the rear and Excelsior on the front of my 20" wood wheels. I have been running both front and rear at 38 PSI but recently noticed that the excelsior have a maximum rating of 32 PSI printed on it.
I also found that if running the Excelsior at the 32 PSI the tubes seem to move causing the valve stem to change position slightly after a lot of braking. Has anyone else found this?

GaryS

Welcome to the site and congratulations on purchasing a fine piece of motoring history, as all our plymouths are.

Gary S (Australia)

Hi Frank,

Very interesting. I couldn't work out how it operated, so I googled it. Came up with some very interesting pictures on how it works. Seems it sort of folds down to a small pickup bed. I haven't seen anything like it here in OZ, but there are probably a few around.

Gary S

Hi Ian,

Well Done. Looks Impressive!

The only problem is that it will now take the fun out of those club runs during thunderstorms. The sight of seeing you motoring along with water flowing down the brim of your hat was priceless.
Hope you realise you now need wipers. The roof makes it impossible to reach over the top of the windshield to squeegee it.

Gary S

PS. As "Old Man" pointed out Australia is close to the size of the USA. The current fires in NSW are around 500 Miles from Melbourne (in the next state to us), but it looks like we are in for a long hot bush fire period this coming summer.

Hy Guys,

looking at both photos and other photos of a Q and U Engines I found on the net it looks like you possibly can flip the inlet manifold on both the Q and U engine keeping the exhaust Manifold as is. it looks like the 2 end of the manifold abd the centre chanber are all built on on the manifolds centreline. the only difference between the two is Ians has the Q exhaust manifold and the other the U (the Q attaches to the exhaust at the rear of the engine and the U attaches to the exhaust at the front.)

Looks like an easy conversion for those who prefer a down draft carby.

Gary S

Hi Des,

Glad you found the site. Look forward to seeing the pictures of your problem. If you want to come over to Berwick one weekend I'll pull the wheels off mine and you can check out the difference between it and yours.

Regards
Gary S

Hi Chet,

My 28 four door sedan has the back bolster assembly bolted in place, although I haven't actually taken any notice of where it actually attaches. The base just sits on the floor covering a metal storage compartment with a sheet metal angle bracket the whole way along the lower front edge of the seat, so there is no adjustment forward or back. I believe this is original to my car, here in Australia. But as the body work of mine was built by a different coach builder to most plymouths here, there may be variations depending who built it. Being short I don't have a problem with the seat too close but I do need to sit on a cushion to comfortably see where I'm going. One of my future tasks is to raise the seat, but then again a cushion has been fine for five years now.
I'm leaving early in the morning on a 3 day club run in the Plymouth Q. We plan to cover around 500 to 600 Kilometers on the round trip. Not huge distances but far enough to enjoy the driving experience over the 3 days . When I get back I'll check out how the back of the seat is attached and if there is any form of adjustment, but I doubt it.

Regards

Gary S

Hi Jim,

Thanks for your reply. A friend of mine in the A Model Ford club checked out the remains of my bendiox drive and told me that it looked like the only difference between the two was the number of teeth on the pinion. A Model has 10 teeth instead of the 11 on the Plymouth. He obviously missed the fact that the spring was wound the oposite way. At the time he was probably more interested in trying to work out how my spring got wound so tightly around the shaft. Thanks for that important piece of infomation Jim. I was just about to place an order for an A Model spring thinking it was the same, to keep as a spare.

I was able to track down a complete bendix drive asembly for the plymouth at www.autosurplus.com.au they are in melbourne. Cost was $85.00 but I was happy to pay that to get me back on the road. good to know that the 25 to 34 chev springs are the same. I'll look out for one as a spare.

Regards

Gary S