Welcome to the site Steve,
I'm sure you'll really enjoy your vintage motoring experiences.
Look forward to your future posts.

Gary S

Further to my request in the "things your looking for" section, does anyone know if the Bendix drive assembly for Ford model A's are the same as Plymouth Q? They look the same in the workshop manuals.

Thanks
Gary S

Hi Ian,

I also got excited when I recieved my copy. I was going to show it to you the next time we caught up. Some good reading and interesting tips in it. You realise us here "downunder" are behind the eight ball. The members in the USA & Canada would have recieved their copies a couple of months ago. They will be hanging out for the next edition by now.

Gary S.

Hi Ian,

The Bosch dizzy looks good. Just out of interest do you know the serial number of it?

With regards to your engine miss. The last time we were looking at your engine you showed me your loose spark plug connections, before you go too far with other things try closing the gap between the "duck bill terminals" you have attached to the spark plugs IE. put a washer between the attaching nut and the terminal to tighten the connection and see if that makes any difference. May not work but worth a try.
It's also not good practice to have any loose connections to the spark plugs. Any sparking outside the engine could ignite petrol vapours floating about.


Regards

Gary S

My 28 makes an "Ahh-Ooo-Gha" sound, well sort of, sounds a bit sick. I'll have to try the grease trick on the face of the agitator; once I know what that is.

Gary S

Hi Westaus29,
Sorry to hear about your pump failure. These things seem to happen at the worst possible time. Lucky you had a spare engine block to rebuild.
A good warning to us all to keep on top of any unusual noises.

Regards

Gary S

Merry Christmas to everyone.
Hope it is a safe and very happy New Year.

Gary S

Hi Ian,

Just a possible suggestion. Purchase a plain wheel cover. There are a lot of custom embrobery companies around that should be able to put what ever details on that you want. ie companies that do logos and club names on jackets, etc.
Give me a call, I have the rear lamp bracket for you.

Gary S.

Hi Ian,

Congratulations on getting the Tourer road ready. Have you paid the registration yet? Looking forward to seeing it on the road.

Happy motoring!

Gary

Hi Guys,

i spoke to the contact i was put on to re bulk buy. The best I could come up with for Firestone tyres was $245 each and $10.00each for tubes and rust bands. problem was if we wanted free delivery from sydney we had to wait until the bendigo swap in November.

i was also told that they had a lot of complaints about Excelsior tyres. has anyone had any problems with Excelsior tyres. I have them on the front of my car and other than showing signs of age (cracking), I hadn't had a problem and forund them great to drive on.

Gary

Hi all,
An interesting subject and one that I have struggled with to find what is correct for our vehicles.
This exact question was asked several months ago during a club tour at Pentite oil tour.
Their answer was with regards to heat transfer properties, nothing is better than plain water. They went on to say that plain water is not necessarily the best thing for your engine ie it does not inhibit rust, will freeze if you take it up the snow (not something many vintage drivers do here in Australia).
Modern coolants and anti freeze were discussed but as they contain Ethylene Glycol they are not usually suitable for vintage engines and or the vintage radiator. Ethylene glycol is corrosive; the manufacturers add rust inhibitors to their coolants to counteract this. If you dilute the mix more than the manufacturers' recommendations you dilute the rust inhibitors allowing the solution to induce rust or corrosion in the system.
Obviously this was a bit of sales talk as they finished by saying that their product does not contain Ethylene glycol. This said, I do believe their product or similar is better than modern coolants for our vehicles.
With my vehicle I have been using a rust inhibitor (a Repco brand) which contains molybdenum disulphide in solution. If my car had a water pump this would also help lubricate it.

Gary

Hi Wayne,

Do you want white wall or black?

I'll get a quote for both anyway.

Gary

Hi Ian,

One of our members in the DVHCC (Glenn Richardson) was a tyre importer. When I caught up with him at the Berwick Swap he said that he wasn't doing it anymore but would still be able to source tyres for our club members if we were wanting any.
I'll give him a ring and get him to quote us for a bulk buy. I also need a ful set.

Gary

Hi Guys,

Sorry I haven't replyed to all your recent posts so I'll answer each in this.

Craig,
Thanks  for the ebay listing for the gasket set. I had seen this. I was also a bit unsure as to the Quality. it appears to be for a few different years starting at 1929 so I wasn't sure if it had all the correct gaskets for the Q. Thanks anyway for that.

Ian,
i have been in contact with Olsen gaskets, actually I had previously spoken to them, but i had forgotten. Their Engine rebuild gasket kit is currently $197.50. i'll get it sent to a relative in the states and pick it up from them during my trip.

Gary R & Ian
Thanks very much for the reserch. I haven't seen the straight tube used in Australia (although maybe I just haven't come across the right cars). I'm happy to use a curved tube. pretty much garintee no one else here in Australia would query it even if it were wrong.

Tony,
The curved one sounds good. What do you want or it? i was going to try and catch up with you anyway. I see your also a member of the Chrysler Restorers Victoria. I'll have to come over and check out your cars.

Thanks to everyone or your replys.

Thanks Gary,

I'll follow up the Gasket kits.

With regards to the window winder mechanism, I need the whole thing. The one that was in my vehicle was totally different and there wasn't any way to connect it to the glass. It looked like a previous owner had the intention of adapting it but nver got that far.

Regards

Gary S