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'30-U

Started by Russ T. Fender, September 30, 2015, 04:22:15 PM

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Russ T. Fender

Hello all, I am new to this forum and wanted to introduce myself.  I have  30-U Rumble Seat Coupe that I have owned since 1962.  I drove the car daily until 1970 when I got married and my wife announced that she would not drive in a car without a heater any longer!  From that point on until 1973 I used tha car to go to the railroad station for the the first part of my daily commute to work.  In 1973 the car developed a mysterious knock so I put it away until I had time to investigate the cause.  Well,  4 children and 42 years later I  am retired and finally have the time!  I have restored other cars in the past but they have been very early cars so I expect that the Plymouth will pose challenges that the earlier, simpler cars did not.  In fact, I also have what I guess could be considered to be an early relative of the Plymouth, since I also have a 1910 Chalmers-Detroit.  Chalmers-Detroit became Chalmers and Chalmers became Maxwell so I guess my Chalmers Detoit is really a Plymouth thrice removed.  I expect that I will be asking some inane questions and searching for some unobtainable parts as part of the process but I look forward to the opportunity.

racertb


Old Man

If the knock is in a rod bearing or the crankshaft you're in for a lot of time and money unfortunetely. Bearing inserts did not appear until 1933 PC six cylinders. Your engine bearings are slung/poured babbit. Normally the whole engine is turned upside down and new babbit is pour,hot, into and on the crankshaft bearing surfaces. The bearing caps get the same treatment. Then the caps are assembled to the upside down engine and "line bored". This is a boring machine that makes a "hole" in perfect alignment from number one bearing through to the last. The bearings on the connecting rods,cap and rod, are treated the same way. Babbit is a mixture of lead and antimony. Then you assemble the engine and put it back in the car. Historically it was common  for almost all shops to do it. Today there are not many places around that do it anymore. Hope this isn't your problem but if it is you best get at it because it will take many months to complete it.  It sounds like the rest of the car is in original condition. Can you give us some photos.       

Russ T. Fender

I am very familiar with the bearing process as I have several early cars that required babbit work. I actually think my issue is a wrist pin as it starts loud and then quiets down after the engine warms up.  It is probably irrelevent as I plan to do the engine over completely now.  The oil pressure and compression are both low and oil consumption is fairly high.  I have a source for the babbit work but wonder if there is someone who is considered to be the go to guy for early Plymouth  engine rebuilding.  I am not very good with computers so I doubt I can figure out how to post pictures of the car but once I get it back out of storage I will take some pictures and give it a try before I start the restoration.  It is a fairly original car but is very tired and suffers from the usual modifications that were made over the years to keep it on the road.

Gary 30U

Welcome. I have a 30U Business Coupe. As someone mentioned rebuilds seem take forever. I have been fighting an RPM sensitive vibration for some years and decided to have the engine balanced. Found out I had some serious babbit problems along with some other problems. To make a long story short I had a fellow up near Spokane, WA do my babbit work and had some problems with the rod surfaces. Been over six months in this project and STILL waiting to get my second set of rods back.

Happy Motoring,
Gary R. (Wilsonville, OR)

Russ T. Fender

I waited 6 years to get the crank and rods squared away on my 1908 Locomobile so I know exactly what you are saying.  Hobbyists have to take a back seat when it comes to getting work done.  We fill in the gaps during slow periods.  I'm only 70 so I hope I will live long enough to drive the car again!

29UJohn

#6
Harkin Machine Shop did the babbit work on by 29U engine rebuild.  Their shop "has been turning out quality BABBITT work since 1906."  They are fast, fair and very good.  903 43rd Str NE, Watertown, SD  57201 Terry Harkin, Ph: 605-886-7880 Speak with Terry Harkin.

The 29U mains are babbit lined brass inserts.  They babbitted them and I had a local shop do the line bore and balance the crank and rods.  Harkin also did the rods for me.  I sent them the measurements and they finished them to an exact fit.  I have never been to the shop, all was done by mail.

I obtained new pistons, rings and ss valves from Egge.

John
John
1929U 4 Dr

Rusty

Harkins did bearings for by 29 and did work for my 42 Buick and rehabbing a old pump jack. His shop is like a museum.  It is like walking into a machine shop from the 30's. Most of his machines were belt powered from a over head line of pulleys when they were new. Most are now run off of 220 volt .   The floor is covered with boxes from all over the country.